Wheel Bolts
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Ralph_Manders
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I lost 2 wheelbolts when I had my summer tyres put on and the shop torqued to 98 Nm and did not pre set to 130. So that is advisable, or you have to re-torque after your first long drive.
Gazcw
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Thanks I am slightly confused. Tighten to 130, loosen and tighten to 98. Am I missing something?
I suppose the theory is that this seats the wheels...I found the previous owner had fitted after market wheels to my GT4200, without removing/clearing the disc retaining bolts. These he simply "crammed" under his new rims at 130Nm...! Apart from anything else, it drove very badly in a straight line....!
98Nm sounds right. Maserati say something like +/-5 Nm too...dont remember where I read that though !!
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Ralph_Manders
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I followed the WSM twice now, so torquing to 130, directly loosen and that set at 98, and no more bolts falling of the car. So I stick to what maserati says in the WSM and do not listen to the wheel “pro’s” that say just set at 98 is sufficient. 2 lost bolts and a loose rear wheel told me otherwise! But hey, do as you please, the OP just asked what the torque setting is and I provided the info from the WSM.
Gazcw
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Thanks. Interesting that the WSM states that. Finally found it in the handbook as Red warning paragraph. It says to do up to 98. I will follow the wsm if that's what it states but I would like to understand why the 130 out of curiosity and the need to know as much as possible about my car.. Had anyone got a QPV workshop manual copy? 4.2 or 4.7?
Ralph_Manders
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There is an incomplete version (which I have) on the maserati life forum. It is to big to e-mail. Maybe some-one here has it in a drop box or something. And I would also be interested in the complete version!
Gazcw
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Found one late last night in dropbox from said forum. Not sure if it is full or not yet. Probably the one you have. Thanks
RobinL
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Just an observation. And from my experience in torque setting bolted flanges in offshore oil & gas.
There should be a range of torque settings. One applies to NEW bolts or studs and applies a higher torque to initially stretch the studs. The other applies to reusing studs or bolts.
So possibly 130 then 98 applies to new studs whilst 98 applies to reused studs? Just a thought.
And beware of painted recess on wheels as that ruins the torque values, as does grease etc etc.
I've always been a fan of a 1ft bar with applied 17st human leaning on it. I go round at lean heavily followed by a second round of lean harder. Never lost a wheel or seen a loose stud
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There should be a range of torque settings. One applies to NEW bolts or studs and applies a higher torque to initially stretch the studs. The other applies to reusing studs or bolts.
So possibly 130 then 98 applies to new studs whilst 98 applies to reused studs? Just a thought.
And beware of painted recess on wheels as that ruins the torque values, as does grease etc etc.
I've always been a fan of a 1ft bar with applied 17st human leaning on it. I go round at lean heavily followed by a second round of lean harder. Never lost a wheel or seen a loose stud
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
RobinL
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I hadn't mentioned the last bit but exactly that!
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Ok if it’s not you gets landed with pulling over tightened, non lubed threaded bolts out, I guess...
Pet hate. Sorry !
RobinL
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Indeed. Bolt tightening is actually quite a specialist subject and torque or tension tightening needs a couple of caveats.
It is actually the tension in the bolt that provides the securing force but as tension is difficult to measure in small bolts and studs then torque is used instead which approximates to a tension value.
Critically torque/tension values provided for new or for re-used studs, and the values modified by the use of friction modifying agents. Eg, machine oil, should be known
Any torque value should correctly specify dry, oiled or otherwise.
Under torque in dry condition will not provide the required tension. (Loose stud)
Overtorque in oiled or wetted condition will over tension (brittle fracture and broken stud)
Also worth mentioning that an accurate torque gun or bar is pretty important. When was the last time you saw one actually checked against a calibrated gauge (?)
A good torque wrench is usually not better than +-5%
I always wire brush (brass brush) all studs and check for galling before re-use.
R.
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Neat... presumably this is two fold advantage?
Doesn’t have the potential to stretch the steel threads either side of the fixing...
Is accurate to reduce tension vs torque conversion numbers...
A decent torque wrench is a nice thing. I have a couple. Getting one that runs to the modest settings used on bikes was harder to find...
Doesn’t have the potential to stretch the steel threads either side of the fixing...
Is accurate to reduce tension vs torque conversion numbers...
A decent torque wrench is a nice thing. I have a couple. Getting one that runs to the modest settings used on bikes was harder to find...
daverichardson
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Ah yes we used to do that on Christmas Trees
For the uninitiated a Christmas Tree is a valve arrangement on the assembly to get oil into a Production Train
For the uninitiated a Train is.......................
Happy Days (not)
allandwf
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Thanks! I try to ignore work completely when off
lol