Used clutch - what to look for?

Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,283
I’d be checking the thickness of the plates, from memory they should be 6.3mm thick when new plus a thorough inspection for cracks etc.

Unless you are fitting it yourself I’d be questioning the economics, but then you probably know that already.
 

Cdn17Sport6MT

Junior Member
Messages
72
I think the actual available wearable friction material depth is quite shallow. If the clutch you're buying is for an MC Shift car, I think you said, this is even more of a potential issue. I think it's hard to tell just how much the wear is...

I'd agree with the comment that it just might not be prudent to consider used clutch disks (there are two). Isn't the intermediate drive plate sandwiched in there somehow, riveted into the bundle?
 

JMS

Member
Messages
264
Mine was London car and lasted to 42k
What %wear reading did you change it at?

What were the symptoms that it was gone?

I’m at 55% wear on 32k miles and am hoping I’ll get at least another 15k miles.

Cheers
 

Gazcw

Member
Messages
7,778
What %wear reading did you change it at?

What were the symptoms that it was gone?

I’m at 55% wear on 32k miles and am hoping I’ll get at least another 15k miles.

Cheers
It was before I bought it but I have a service sheet saying it was adjusted due to slip and then shortly after the replacement. I will dig out the paperwork to see if there is a wear %.

I think Conaero says 38-40k is the norm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMS

Cdn17Sport6MT

Junior Member
Messages
72
The "% clutch wear" number is not that accurate, and it can be "gamed" by unscrupulous individuals by changing the NCCP value. If you buy an F1 equipped car you should never be surprised that you need to renew the clutch. It's not just the wear of the friction surfaces of the clutch disks that can precipitate a tear-down. Other cpts can fail. Once you're there... it'd be folly not to renew the known wear cpts...
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMS

Scaf

Member
Messages
6,582
30k all gd but just want to be ready in the future.
Is there a benefit in buying parts now, if and when I ever have to replace one I will get the garage to supply and fit, no no argument over faulty parts.

I would just put money aside
 

Cdn17Sport6MT

Junior Member
Messages
72
But what about the F1 position sensor, what about the clutch release bearing assembly? Already we're seeing NCR's and Hall Effect actuator position sensors becoming hard to get or NLA. Let's face it: small production run car, few jobber mfrs interested, car becoming old. Unfortunate reality.

I suppose that ultimately, for 4200 cars - coupés, Spyders, and GrandSports - conversion to 6MT is within the realm of possibility. I would say a lot less so, for QPV's, principally due to fitment issues of the third pedal. I've seen it done, but don't know details...
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,283
Given the shared components, I don’t see this being more of and issue than things like wheel bearing et al.

It goes with the territory.

Anyway, to the OP, I think you have your answer :)