Subframe rust protection

[davy83]

I've just had a go at my 3200 using a wire brush on any surface rust, then applying Kurust, followed by black stone chip paint and then Waxoyl. I do have ramps which helped with the back subframe but most of the car was done by jacking up each corner and removing the wheel. There's quite a lot of the car you can reach like that and it breaks the job down into quite manageable chunks. If you really feel the need you can remove the wheel arch liners as well. You do have to allow enough time for the various products to go off before applying the next layer. Alternatively, I know from previous cars that a wire brush on any surface rust followed by Waxoyl will give quite a lot of protection on its own. It certainly did on my Jaguar S Type rear subframe. Just rest the car for a couple of days after applying the Waxoyl to allow it enough time to firm up.

Thats kind of what i am doing at the moment too. I am using lanoguard and although its very similar to the stuff i used before the grease that comes in the kit is a good addition. I am also wire brushing all the rust back to metal and using several applications of kurust from a spray gun to get the most from that. again also using a goey spray on black underseal over the top and then the lanoguard. I will probably re-apply the lanoguard every 6 -9 months and certainly before the winter.

 

[Andy4200]

I used Lanoguard as well. Jet washed the underneath first, then let it dry. Wire brushed and rust treated where required. Then a liberal coating of Lanoguard which is messy to apply but safe on everything under the car, wiring, rubber etc.

I think the theory with it I that it soaks into any surface rust and seals it from the air, therefore rust can't progress.
Although messy, I'm quite happy with the film of protection it seems to add. Prefer it to underseal as that seems to allow water underneath if there are any breaks/stonechips etc, then quietly rusts away under the underseal.

 

[philw696]

Just finished the whole underside of my Jaguar and my method has cost me nothing.
The guy that tests my cars here loves it as he can see everything easily.

 

[zagatoes30]

I will be attacking the rear of the RR this weekend, assuming its dry, clean, wire brush and wax oil is my usual method seems to keep things under control in between proper treatments which I send it away every 3 years or so

 

[williamsmix]

Thats kind of what i am doing at the moment too. I am using lanoguard and although its very similar to the stuff i used before the grease that comes in the kit is a good addition. I am also wire brushing all the rust back to metal and using several applications of kurust from a spray gun to get the most from that. again also using a goey spray on black underseal over the top and then the lanoguard. I will probably re-apply the lanoguard every 6 -9 months and certainly before the winter.

That sounds very thorough. A spray gun is certainly very handy for getting into some of the more hard to reach places that would otherwise have to be neglected. I just applied one coat of Kurust with a long handled brush and sprayed the stonechip and waxoyl. Some of the top parts of the 3200’s rear subframe are quite difficult to get at. Inevitably some parts will be missed without a proper ramp and good lighting but I reckon just getting something on is better than nothing!

 

[Gazcw]

Second what Peter has stated.
Like anything it's down to preparation and if it's rusted through dealing with it properly or replacing it.
There's plenty of pictures on here of the Good Bad and the Ugly.
Done properly and regularly checked there's no reason why they can't last permanently.

I assume you are talking about me, you and midlife? I don't remember my picture being on here though.

 

[Gazcw]

Glad you’ve grown out of that.

Only because he misplaced his wellies and has nowhere to put their back legs.

 

[strictly]

Waxoil is fairly regarded now as "old tech", which is no where near as good in salt spray tests and other newer products. There are many products on the market. I myself am looking at the Dinitrol range, or the products by Bilt Hamber. I have also been looking at Lanoguard, but the Bilt Hamber has my edge. the Dynax UC also has a lanolin base

I am planning a full underneath detail of my GT involving

• Steam clean
• Rust/stone chip repair, with repaint in factory colour (lechler epoxy primer, Dinitrol 447, top coat TBC) - both of the lechler epoxy primer and the dinitrol 447 contain zinc
• Bilt Hamber S-50 for cavities, Bilt Hamber Dynax UB for areas you cant see like under wheel arch liners....but maybe I will skip this and just use the S-50 here
• Bilt Hamber Dynax UC or Dinitrol 4010 for any areas you can see. These are both "clear" so you can see them. They both seem to be more durable than lanoguard.....but this is only from my "internet research". I have not used them yet
• Will also use ACF50 or maybe ACF corrosion block for any areas I really cant get to.

My plan is piecemeal (i.e one section of the car at the time). I will undertake it sometime between December and April....but I dont have an actual time frame yet! First I need to clear a space in my garage for long term work ability on the car. I will start a thread/post pictures/share my experiences and end result when I get to it

 

[haith]

I have a brand new (in factory crate) front sub-frame for sale (part number 261715) for anyone who requires one: https://www.sportsmaserati.com/inde...me-in-factory-crate-part-number-261715.38322/

 

[Troll]

Have you looked at the Buzzweld products, I have used them on my Landrover and they get good reviews. They have just released their own Lanoil based product which is cheaper then Lanoguard and has better water shifting prperties.

I started on my GT over the weekend, those area's that were a bit suspect I have give a coat of rust escapsultor followed by there CIO. Next I will cover and protect using their Lanoil based protect which should get into places including the inner subframe. It's cheap enough to perform every winter while the car sleeps.

 

[philw696]

Have you looked at the Buzzweld products, I have used them on my Landrover and they get good reviews. They have just released their own Lanoil based product which is cheaper then Lanoguard and has better water shifting prperties.

I started on my GT over the weekend, those area's that were a bit suspect I have give a coat of rust escapsultor followed by there CIO. Next I will cover and protect using their Lanoil based protect which should get into places including the inner subframe. It's cheap enough to perform every winter while the car sleeps.

Wow they do some products.

 

[williamsmix]

Yes, there are lots of new products about and I’ve considered using some of them but usually fall back to the old and familiar process of a wire brush, kurust, stoneguard and then waxoyl … I take the view that I’m usually starting with a less than perfect surface which I’m never going to get back to bare metal and, working with imperfect conditions - without having the car on a ramp - I try to do enough to slow up any future corrosion rather than arrest it completely.