Fat Arnie
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A very extensive GS Subframe Overhaul Project.
So I decided not to sell my car some time back and to get the underside as shiny as the top. I am removing front and rear subframes on my car to get them blasted, phosphated and powdercoated to they are nice and shiny, instead of covered surface rust.
Started this yesterday. Wish I hadn't. Ambitious job
There are many small corroded parts to replace an make things shiny again. Every bracket which was once bright zinc plated now has surface rust all over. Seems the metal platers did no more a proper job than the powder coaters at the factory. This is what will see these cars headed to the scrap heap as the labour cost to fix all this would be unjustifiable. Luckily I have a 2 post lift in a mates man cave, and I'be just broken the news the GS could be on it for 6 months!
As well as the subframes here's a list of what needs to be refurbed or replaced due to corrosion:
All the brake unions are corroded to the pipes necessitating new brake pipes all round.
Swaged ends Gearbox oil cooler pipes are badly rusted - will need to make up new pipes. Pirtek is the place to go £30 the pair instead of £150 from Eurospares.
All exhaust brackets
Even the Mikalor exhaust clamps are corroded through on the exhaust (std Larini fit I believe) and they are supposed to be stainless! I shall get Hayward and Scott to make me some proper ones.
So back to the task in hand and the difficulties I am having:
Have started at the rear, and first up I am trying to remove the transaxle. Exhaust is off, spare wheel well and heatshield are removed (only one broken stud due to corrosion) , transaxle is free of the torque tube, and the X member at the back of the transaxle is removed. Car is on a 2 post lift and the back of the transaxle is on a transmission jack. Driveshafts are disconnected from the flanges.
So the transaxle is "loose" - I've got it to move backwards about 40mm, but I cannot see how you can ever get it out of the car without lowering the subframe. The diff end has to drop to miss the body, this forces the front high so it cannot pass over the subframe. Has anyone done this who can confirm its possible?
I've moved to stripping the suspension off, so I decided to remove the outboard end of the top wishbone from the upright but I cannot get the bolt out of the upright. I've got about a 1/4" gap between the balljoint and the upright by smacking the nut on the other end, but I am doubtful this is good for the balljoint. Its not rusty, but just wont come out. It does turn if you put a spanner on the flats of the balljoint. Any tricks here?
And I cannot get the handbrake cables off where they pass through the upright, I suspect corrosion, but should they just pull out once all the shoes and mechanism on the front of the upright is removed - Again has anyone done this who can confirm?
Answers in anticpation of solutions, but I've given up for this weekend.
Thx
FA
So I decided not to sell my car some time back and to get the underside as shiny as the top. I am removing front and rear subframes on my car to get them blasted, phosphated and powdercoated to they are nice and shiny, instead of covered surface rust.
Started this yesterday. Wish I hadn't. Ambitious job
There are many small corroded parts to replace an make things shiny again. Every bracket which was once bright zinc plated now has surface rust all over. Seems the metal platers did no more a proper job than the powder coaters at the factory. This is what will see these cars headed to the scrap heap as the labour cost to fix all this would be unjustifiable. Luckily I have a 2 post lift in a mates man cave, and I'be just broken the news the GS could be on it for 6 months!
As well as the subframes here's a list of what needs to be refurbed or replaced due to corrosion:
All the brake unions are corroded to the pipes necessitating new brake pipes all round.
Swaged ends Gearbox oil cooler pipes are badly rusted - will need to make up new pipes. Pirtek is the place to go £30 the pair instead of £150 from Eurospares.
All exhaust brackets
Even the Mikalor exhaust clamps are corroded through on the exhaust (std Larini fit I believe) and they are supposed to be stainless! I shall get Hayward and Scott to make me some proper ones.
So back to the task in hand and the difficulties I am having:
Have started at the rear, and first up I am trying to remove the transaxle. Exhaust is off, spare wheel well and heatshield are removed (only one broken stud due to corrosion) , transaxle is free of the torque tube, and the X member at the back of the transaxle is removed. Car is on a 2 post lift and the back of the transaxle is on a transmission jack. Driveshafts are disconnected from the flanges.
So the transaxle is "loose" - I've got it to move backwards about 40mm, but I cannot see how you can ever get it out of the car without lowering the subframe. The diff end has to drop to miss the body, this forces the front high so it cannot pass over the subframe. Has anyone done this who can confirm its possible?
I've moved to stripping the suspension off, so I decided to remove the outboard end of the top wishbone from the upright but I cannot get the bolt out of the upright. I've got about a 1/4" gap between the balljoint and the upright by smacking the nut on the other end, but I am doubtful this is good for the balljoint. Its not rusty, but just wont come out. It does turn if you put a spanner on the flats of the balljoint. Any tricks here?
And I cannot get the handbrake cables off where they pass through the upright, I suspect corrosion, but should they just pull out once all the shoes and mechanism on the front of the upright is removed - Again has anyone done this who can confirm?
Answers in anticpation of solutions, but I've given up for this weekend.
Thx
FA