Spyder roof swap from plastic window to glass...

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
As some already know, I'm in the middle of doing a full swap of my 2002 plastic window roof, to the glass window from a 2004.
To clarify...By full swap I mean literally every component of the roof assembly....canvass/bows/all hydraulics including pumps/harnesses/base plates etc!!

While I did quite a bit of research both online, and speaking to the dealership, nothing is ever 100% sure.
However, if you compare part numbers (of the full assembly) they are a match with the obvious exception of the canvass itself.

Using the guide attached below, I have fully completed the removal of the old set-up.
Tonight I installed the new assembly and I'm pleased to report that the base plates line up exactly with the anchoring bolts.
I also re-attached the replacement roof electrical harnesses to my existing plugs with no issues.
In fact the only things I've had to "modify" so far is the defrost feature on the 04 (simply omitting it for now), and the connectors for the rear speakers.

While I haven't completed the install
I have one or two adjustments to make, as well as all of the trim), it appears it's going to be fine.
SpyderNick's roof adjustment thread is one of the adjustments I plan on doing, then one or two other's...if necessary.

I'll definitely post the results after tomorrow as I plan on completing the install (fingers crossed), by working on it all day.

Cheers all!
John
 

SpyderNick

Junior Member
Messages
326
Hi Jon,

I hope my pm helps, it sounds like it is going really well.
The only trouble is that I will want to do it myself when you have finish and a couple of others may as well, the availability of secondhand 04 roofs is going to get sparse and expensive !
Well it's not exactly cheap now !
 

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
Thanks guys! I'll keep you posted for sure!
As for the expense and availability, I rationalize it by thinking of the quote I got from the dealership for a new roof installed....between $22,000 and $25,000!
Also, there will always be the option of getting an after market canvass from these guys:
http://www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/2059/2002-1-02-4-02-Maserati-Spider
or
http://www.gahh.com/store.php?cPath=49_3621_3623&search_for=Tops&products_family_id=1

Always an option here and there!
Cheers!
 

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
Well hit a sizable hurdle!! While all the bits and pieces line up for the most part, it turns out a leaky hydraulic line is bringing my progress to a halt.
The frustrating thing is I have the replacement lines not 3 feet away, but not a clue how to remove the line from the pump.
Anyone know how? Here are 2 pictures, one of the leaking line, the other of the lines location on the old pump.

Arrrrg.....so close and yet so far!!! LOL
IMG_0936.jpgIMG_0937.jpg
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,987
Is the old pump and hosing easily transportable? If so, off to your local hydraulic specialists. I expect they are standard fit, and they could probably do it in minutes.

If it's not easy, take the car :)

C
 

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
I figured it out!! All you need to do to replace any damaged line, is remove the plate that the lines converge to on the pump by unscrewing the three allen key style bolts.
A little of the fluid will leak out, but once removed, you can actually remove the offending line, by simply pulling it out like a plug.
Now the interesting part is that you remove the entire line by pulling it out from the pump end, and reinstall the line the same way.
The hardest part is separating the one line from the 13 or so in the harness.
In my case I simply cut the end off the line (furthest away from the pump), then pulled it out at each tie down point, until I got to the pump.
Next - after the new line has been installed and the pump line plate tightened back on - run the line back to the destination point by following the same route that it was removed from.

Simple!! :jptongue:

By the way, while there are MANY identical parts between the plastic window structure and the glass window structure - I don't know that it's as easy as just replacing the canvass after all. Replacing the entire assembly is quite possible, and in the end less expensive than a new top versus the entire used assembly.
I paid $3200 (including shipping) for the whole assembly (that I can confirm can be fitted), and now best of all - I have some spare parts...win/win.
As I mentioned, A new OEM top (just the canvass and the glass window....nothing else!!) is around $6500, but then you need a professional to put it on the frame.
GAHH is a cheaper alternative at about $1800....but there is no guarantee that the glass window replacement will fit on the plastic window frame nicely.

Cheers, and if anyone needs help with the process or any questions - I'd love to try and help! I'm no expert, but I learned quite a bit about our structures and operation!
 

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
Thank you gentlemen!
In the next week or so I'm either going to try and "amend" or possibly re-write the DIY guide to make it a little clearer for simple minded people like me! LOL
Stay tuned!! :thumb3:
 

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
I can now say....mission success! The 2004 roof is working perfectly on my 2002!
The only issue was that the new roof didn't have the elastic, and I had the dealership tweak the many adjustments.
But the nagging question of will a glass window work in place of the plastic has been proven...YES!
Keep in mind however that I replaced the entire setup not just the canvass.
Just for fun, I'll do a complete comparison of every part that the canvass touches to see if that alone can be done.
I figure, worst case scenario, one or two parts MAY have to be changed, but I really don't see that much, and I think - none at all.
Stay tuned for that answer in a day or 2!
Here are a few shots of the old roof before I removed it, and the new roof installed! (just for proof! :))

Interesting side note....the wear marks near the second bow on my old roof, are almost identical to the ones on my "new" roof!
I was told that when the elastic loses its elasticity, the bow wears right at that same point.
Cheers!!!
Now I'm going to spend the day cleaning waxing and polishing!! ;D
 

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Stewart

Junior Member
Messages
472
Hi tuber,can you advise?,my top operates until it is nearly stowed ,then stops,motors still running.it closes no problem,I am in the north Scotland, no dealers about,any advise welcome.

How is the fishing?,

Stewart.
 

BennyD

Sea Urchin Pate
Messages
15,010
Great job, well done. Have you managed to hook up the rear demister? Is there a button fitted?
 

Tubber273

New Member
Messages
228
@ Stewart....It could be that one of your bows are binding up. It's a relatively common issue that sooner or later comes up. Here is a link to do an easy DIY fix that's very inexpensive. I used 3" wide elastic then riveted it. Works great!
http://www.modifry.com/products/ctf/CTF Installation.pdf
(FYI....I never cut the old ones out...I would just leave them in)

@BennyD....Thank you, it was actually fun to do (although very time consuming!!). In answer to the demister question, no not as yet. the wiring is all in place from the top itself, but not from the car. I believe it would be easy enough to hook up, but honestly it isn't an issue enough for me to hook up. It is very possible! I did get to the point of planning, and would have located the switch on the unused button above the "asr" button and left of the fog lamps button (at least on the North American versions). I stalled in the planning when it came to getting it onto a fuse, so just left it! :)

Hope this helps you both in any way!
Cheers!
 

Hans Peter

New Member
Messages
4
Hello Tubber

My name is Hans Peter from Denmark, I need to dismantle the canvass from my spyder replace a strap, do you by chance have any pictures, how you dismantle the canvass?

Hans Peter