Spyder roof advice pleas !!!

[petronic]

Been some time now with no issues. Roof has been good up and down no issues. Last week went to open the roof and nothing at all - no noise nothing. Left it for a while stop wont open/operate.

Have checked fuse, relays and handbrake appears all in order. No error messages (not sure if these apply to the roof).

On startup hood light comes on then off, book says should flash? mine does not so does this indicate the problem?

Tried a battery re-set no help.

I have put the roof up before by the manual method - question before I try manual re-set of the roof can you open a roof the manual way - pack it into the boot then try to re-set the roof that way.

Any advice please - mainly can you take the roof down from a locked up position?

Thanks PeterC

 

[Chrisbassett]

Obvious, but check the boot/trunk light. At least try opening & re-closing it. Oops, just noticed you did a battery reset, so I guess you've already done that.

 

[Tubber273]

I'm sure you can get the roof down using the manual method. Just not sure if that'll reset it.
No harm in trying!

As far as possible problems causing it?
Since you've tried the reset, eliminate the other possible causes....
Did you try pushing the buttons inside the rear glove box? Do they work?
I'd guess it's either the switch itself, or maybe the micro-switch on the e brake.
Maybe try releasing and engaging the e brake. Maybe the switch is stiff and might work doing this?
If it were the micro-switch for the trunk, I'm guessing that would throw a warning light indicating the trunk is "ajar".
Maybe try opening and closing it to be sure?
After that, try depressurizing the system, wait 10 minutes, then re-pressurizing (close the valve, then turn key to MAR) to see if you hear the motor working behind you.
If it does, it's almost certainly a micro-switch.
If not, there's the chance it could be the motor (as long as you're sure you've checked all fuses and relays)

That's the stuff I know to check. I'm sure there may be others that know more than I, but it's a start!
Good luck!!

 

[petronic]

Thanks some good points. May seem a silly question but the switch - if you feel the gator around the hand brake left side you can feel a micro switch - if you are "gentle" you can switch it on and off and the hand brake light goes on and off - is this the switch - if so it appears to work.

As I asked before can you "reverse" engineer the closing method? The switches only work one way? So how do you unlock the pull down screws? Don’t they have to go in reverse first from the locked position? So does the switch operate both ways depending on locked position? Have not tried this yet your advice please.

I have carried out the emergency procedure in the past but only with the roof down - never up to down - so advice first please - Thanks again

If you can do this then yes I will try a full re-set that’s the last thing I can do?

In addition could a diagnostic detect a fault? I found in the boot a connector behind/the re-set and fuses which appears to go into the hood box?

Again thanks

 

[petronic]

Quick update tried opening closing all windows, boot etc - no change. Tried the switches no sounds or movement? So if the switches are not working how can I lower the roof

 

[conaero]

Maybe its a simple as the switch is broken, lift it out and short the wires. If it were me I'd take it to an auto electrician. They will quickly via process determin where the error is. They are about £40 an hour too.

 

[BennyD]

The connector might have fallen off the back of the switch. I too reckon an auto electrician may well be the best way to go to avoid costly MD/Indie diagnostic sessions.

 

[petronic]

Tried switching everything off charged battery full reboot - released the hydraulic pressure listened for pump nothing switches don’t work - it appears dead!!! But still no error messages? Strange

 

[BennyD]

However, if the connector at the rear of the switch has come off, the system wouldn't recognise there was a fault so no warning light and it wouldn't know when you were trying to operate it so no noise from pumps and hydraulics. Just a thought.

 

[Tubber273]

Thanks some good points. May seem a silly question but the switch - if you feel the gator around the hand brake left side you can feel a micro switch - if you are "gentle" you can switch it on and off and the hand brake light goes on and off - is this the switch - if so it appears to work.

I can't check if mine does this, but I think Benny is on to something. This seems the best place to check.
If the connector isn't attached, it's fooled into thinking everything is fine (so no codes/warning lights) and obviously non operating.
I'd check that first. Next (again as Benny said) check the main top switch. To access it, gently pry it up and you should immediately see if the connection is broken. Of course it could also be the switch itself and in that case you'll have to "hotwire" it to see if it works (I defer that procedure to my smarter forum chums!! LOL)

As I asked before can you "reverse" engineer the closing method? The switches only work one way? So how do you unlock the pull down screws? Don't they have to go in reverse first from the locked position? So does the switch operate both ways depending on locked position? Have not tried this yet your advice please.

I have carried out the emergency procedure in the past but only with the roof down - never up to down - so advice first please - Thanks again

Like you I've never done the reverse of the closing. I was assuming that one of the switches opens, and the other closes. Again, if the car senses that the e brake switch isn't switched on, nothing would happen.
(Normally I would go out to the car and test for myself, but my car is at the dealership until Wednesday....sorry!!)

In addition could a diagnostic detect a fault? I found in the boot a connector behind/the re-set and fuses which appears to go into the hood box?
Again thanks

I doubt that a diagnostic would pick up any fault if it's a bad connection or switch as it simply isn't a fault in the way the ECU reports them.
With subtle differences between the European cars and the North American cars, I can't be positive, but there aren't any roof operating electrical connectors back there just the two electrical connectors in the boot area that lead separately to each down motor that are connected inside the roof storage bin cover.
Extremely doubtful that both would become dislodged or malfunction at the same time.
Here's what they look like:


I'm convinced it's a disconnected switch or a faulty micro-switch.

As for the connector that you saw in the boot, is this it by chance?
I'm not 100%, but I believe it is the connector for the cd changer (that I don't have) so it just hangs there.

 

[SpyderNick]

Hi Peter,

The emergency buttons do only pull down and lock the roof back and the roof cover.
If I remember correctly the procedure to open the roof cover using a screwdriver to push / tap through the hole behind the passenger seat (rhd) also releases the locks holding the rear of the hood. Then it is easy to undo the front with the the Allen key and fold the roof down then use the emergency buttons front button for pulling down and locking the hood cover.
The rear button is only used when locking the rear of the hood down when putting the roof up and you have locked the front with the Allen key.
There is another poster who has asked this so I hope he sees it as well.

 

[Tubber273]

And that's why your name is SpyderNick!
"Great to know" information!

 

[Parisien]

Nick is this info in the hnadbook, or a learnt/in the know fix?

P

 

[SpyderNick]

Hi Frank,

It's not written anywhere as far as I know, the emergency roof procedure is only for putting the roof up. I guess they didn't think that taking it down in the sun w an emergency

 

[Parisien]

Hi Nick, maybe put this in the fixes section, witha clear heading so people can search for it?

Cheers,

P

 

[petronic]

Spyser Roof update and Battery Question

After trying everything and no fault found I have the car booked in to Bill McGrath for next monday. Well yesterday after a long "think" and reading about issues with batteries/alternators voltages I tought it may be a voltage/amp issue.

So yesterday hooked the battery up and fully charged it over night. Today got in the car and started straight away pressed the ro0of button and hey presto the roof opened. Drove about 10 miles parked the car up - pressed the close button roofed closed no problem.

Left the car for a couple of hours parked up returned and back to the roof not opening!!!! so I have a suspicion the battery is perhaps not holding its charge.

Is this all possible? that because the battery may be on its way out the relays etc wount function if the voltage/amp is to low? noy a Tech so would appreciate any thoughts please.

I have sourced a replacement battery if needed - the car is back on charge and I will try to open the roof in the morning and repeat subdays activities. If the same happens again is it the alternator, voltage controller, dieing battery or something else - again all thoughts appreciated.

Petronic

 

[2b1ask1]

Absolutely, if there is a weak cell on these batteries you will find all manner of problems... likely if the battery has ever been run down!

 

[CatmanV2]

Absolutely, if there is a weak cell on these batteries you will find all manner of problems... likely if the battery has ever been run down!

You'd think it would be OK with the engine running, but so many odd things have been traced back to dead batteries in these cars....

C

 

[2b1ask1]

If you have a weak cell it will take everything the alternator can give it and still not hold it, could also be a loose/corroded terminal connection?

 

[CatmanV2]

Hold yes, but should still be able to supply current, I would have thought.
But hey. Italian electrics

C