Rust warning

[conaero]

Just the heads up, its back again.....

3 and a half year old Gransport, problem area boot.

This time last year, as the winter passes, I give the GS a thorough inspection for rust, and yesterday was that day.

Same problem as last year, on the underside of the boot lit, where the seam from the upper facing metal bends round the frame, paint had again flaked off and the metal underneath was distinctly brown.

Catch it early like I did and its not a problem.

1. Scratch off with your nail the loose paint and rust.
2. Apply rust remedy, I use Krust, its work 100% to date. It turns Iron Oxide (rust) into a stable material, chemically.
3. Apply touch up paint, believe it or not, I got mine mixed from Halfords. Take in your paint code and they mix by weight from bottles and a descent touch up size bottle is only £7

Job done

Areas to inspect:
1. Boot lid, especially the seam as mentioned above and the lower edge. The lower edge strikes the rear bumper when you close it and gradually chips away at the edge.
2. Below rear lights
3. Where the rear bumper touches the metalwork. Due to tight fitment, it rubs away especially causing problems in point 2 above.
4. Rear arches. usually the inner edges, where stones chip away at the paint, this wears through and rust start. I usually rub rust remedy round here only about twice a year.
5. Door bottoms, again like the boot the rust starts from the seam on the lower inner edge and burns through.
6. Leading edge, nose, bonnet usually due to stone chips.

I have always been lead to believe these cars are fully galvanised, and I am sure they are, just not very well, so a little work now could save you and future purchasers of your car a big head ache.

 

[Parisien]

Conaero, yes they are "fully galvanised"........whatever that actually means in an Italian car! But, if any metal is exposed to constant water/water+salt combinations then corrosion of a type ouccurs even if the metal itself aint exposed!

I know this has occured on my passenger door bottom, and I have a few chips, so when it warms up a bit, am getting it tarted up!

Got a pic of the location on your boot floor area? Halfords will do it whilst you wait?


P

 

[conaero]

Parisien, its not on the boot floor, its on the underside of the boot lid. If you open the boot lid, you can see the underside, and where the skin of the boot lid panel (the bit you see when its closed) bends round underneath, near where the hinges attach.

 

[Parisien]

Parisien, its not on the boot floor, its on the underside of the boot lid. If you open the boot lid, you can see the underside, and where the skin of the boot lid panel (the bit you see when its closed) bends round underneath, near where the hinges attach.

Emmmm.....a pic would still be good..............do you think its water ingress around/via the hinges which have allowed this to happen? Take hinges off to re-seal? Why water gets into boot?


P

 

[conaero]

Hum, interesting, I cleared out my boot yesterday, which meant removing all the sodden items from the spare wheel well and sponging our about 3 litres of water.

I then dried it all down and then spent 15mins hosing the boot down, nothing, not a drop. I am starting to think that the water is getting in from underneath, sort of being thrown up whilst driving.

I like your rust/damp way of thinking though Parisien!

 

[Troesma]

Hi Guys. Nice to see this new forum.

Guess the following thread I started at Maseratilife waay back in time will help you folks

http://www.maseratilife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4235&highlight=boot+damp

Later.

 

[Parisien]

Welcome.......Troemsa........great to see you on our new board.....do enjoy and am sure we all will enjoy your company too!

Cheers for the heads up too re the dreaded tinworm!


P

 

[lozcb]

Ive have read two reasons for this , first as ED says the bottom of the boot seal / join the other being inside the petrol cap where water can drain down the tube and into the boot where it touches varios wires cables etc on to the neoprene rubber where it builds up at the bottom ,


regards loz

 

[conaero]

So Troesma just to make sure I got this right its the electrical conduit or trunking coming through the rear boot bulkhead from the license plate, right?

Silicone it up?

 

[Troesma]

So Troesma just to make sure I got this right its the electrical conduit or trunking coming through the rear boot bulkhead from the license plate, right?

Silicone it up?

It is the electrical conduit (looking into the boot, to the left, connects the trunk lid to the bodywork, black corrugated conduit plastic pipe). Silicone it into place and presto.



The conduit is the one going from the boot lid to the bodywork where the circles are. Silicone the bit that attachs to the bodywork (lower circle)

 

[conaero]

Arg, thanks Troesma, will take a look and report back.

 

[Troesma]

Cool. What happens is that with heavy rain the area floods (whilst draining water by gravity through the edges). If the conduit attachment is loose, water gets in, flows through the inner lining and drops into the boot at a place where 2 lining sections get together. **** simple, yet it took me a while to figure it out. Thought it was the rubber seal, but not. That's defo not the issue.

 

[nfm]

Also check under the leading edge of bonnet where the skin folds around the frame

Cheers

 

[adam01]

Just the heads up, its back again.....

3 and a half year old Gransport, problem area boot.

This time last year, as the winter passes, I give the GS a thorough inspection for rust, and yesterday was that day.

Same problem as last year, on the underside of the boot lit, where the seam from the upper facing metal bends round the frame, paint had again flaked off and the metal underneath was distinctly brown.

Catch it early like I did and its not a problem.

1. Scratch off with your nail the loose paint and rust.
2. Apply rust remedy, I use Krust, its work 100% to date. It turns Iron Oxide (rust) into a stable material, chemically.
3. Apply touch up paint, believe it or not, I got mine mixed from Halfords. Take in your paint code and they mix by weight from bottles and a descent touch up size bottle is only £7

Job done

Areas to inspect:
1. Boot lid, especially the seam as mentioned above and the lower edge. The lower edge strikes the rear bumper when you close it and gradually chips away at the edge.
2. Below rear lights3. Where the rear bumper touches the metalwork. Due to tight fitment, it rubs away especially causing problems in point 2 above.
4. Rear arches. usually the inner edges, where stones chip away at the paint, this wears through and rust start. I usually rub rust remedy round here only about twice a year.
5. Door bottoms, again like the boot the rust starts from the seam on the lower inner edge and burns through.
6. Leading edge, nose, bonnet usually due to stone chips.

I have always been lead to believe these cars are fully galvanised, and I am sure they are, just not very well, so a little work now could save you and future purchasers of your car a big head ache.

UPDATE ON BUBBLE RUST UNDER THE REAR TAILIGHTS bolded above
Car is a 10/2006 build never been in an accident

Small bubbles were noticed some 6 mths ago, didn't "grow"but annoying
Leading restorer of Fezzas/Extotics removed rear light clusters and identified the problem. Note no evidence of water entering the boot area or leakages (leak tested)
Cause: Each corner had weak bronze weld joints, causing hairline cracks. Moisture then accumulated under the paint resulting in bubbling

Interesting either the dealer or factory attempted to rectify the problem (i guess thru similar reported instances) by bogging the inside of the boot area (rear light assembly) thinking there was a water leak thru the lens area - useless as the problem was from the outside.

Outcome: Yes a quick patch up could have been done but a proper (and costly) long term solution is being implemented by cutting out small offending patches, renew and respraying quarter panels

Worth keeping an eye on this area but given the nature of the problem don't know if it can be detected or even prevented

 

[conaero]

Adam, this was a known issue in the UK and was subject to Maserati fixing it under warranty. It sounds like the fix that was done on your car, was this fix by Maserati....a bit of a bodge by the sound of things.

 

[adam01]

Adam, this was a known issue in the UK and was subject to Maserati fixing it under warranty. It sounds like the fix that was done on your car, was this fix by Maserati....a bit of a bodge by the sound of things.

After looking at some of the pics. in Emtes posting, looks like a Masa job (factory/dealer?) - similar smearing of filler inside. Initially I thought other wise

Cars out of warranty although I tried for a goodwill contribution

 

[ratbag]

The main reason I got rid of my VERY early build 4200 (April 2002) was having done rust bubbles under the osr tailight three times it always came back... only solution was an expensive cutting out of affected section metal and respraying as posted above. Shame as it spoilt otherwise pretty good build quality......

 

[rs48635]

Arg, thanks Troesma, will take a look and report back.

And the pragmatic fix, drill holes in your boot floor, lowest point of course. There is no repaint or rust to worry about as boot floor is non-mettallic (fibre glass?).

 

[Parisien]

To repeat my own experience.....mostly turned out to be a combination of -

Rear lights not properly sealed with silicone

Boot lid seal not sitting perfectly

The wiring trunking between body and boot lid not sealed around the openings.



P

 

[conaero]

And the pragmatic fix, drill holes in your boot floor, lowest point of course. There is no repaint or rust to worry about as boot floor is non-mettallic (fibre glass?).

I must confess, that is what I did in the end.....and it worked a treat.