I use the Meguiars G220 DA - it was well used and acclaimed on the detailing world site. It works very well.
Professional Detail - Is it worth it?
- Thread starter c4sman
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I use the Meguiars G220 DA - it was well used and acclaimed on the detailing world site. It works very well.
FF1078
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zoros
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zoros
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I've been watching and wondering the detailing world for years. Because I am a skin flint I adamantly refuse to spend zillions on some young buck "polishing" my car, because I can do it just as well......what a load of b o ll o x!
It is both impossible and dangerous to emulate what a detailer can do. They learn their trade after years of practice on someone else's car for a start, they spend AT LEAST 2 full days working on the car, half of that is using their secret weapon - the rotary polisher. People who aren't detailers - who use this piece of equipment had better have plan b up their sleeve when using it. Because as sure as eggs is eggs - you will **** UP!
Having been to a detailers workshop recently and having seen what they go thru to get the car to that pristine condition - No-ONE is going to tell me they can copy those results by themselves.
And those out there who think they are doing a reasonable job by hand (polishing I mean!) haven't a clue.
Next month I plan to get my car paint corrected and detailed for the first time in living memory - but, after all it is a damned Maserati after all................ Would you go out to dinner without your Rolex? C'mon........................
It is both impossible and dangerous to emulate what a detailer can do. They learn their trade after years of practice on someone else's car for a start, they spend AT LEAST 2 full days working on the car, half of that is using their secret weapon - the rotary polisher. People who aren't detailers - who use this piece of equipment had better have plan b up their sleeve when using it. Because as sure as eggs is eggs - you will **** UP!
Having been to a detailers workshop recently and having seen what they go thru to get the car to that pristine condition - No-ONE is going to tell me they can copy those results by themselves.
And those out there who think they are doing a reasonable job by hand (polishing I mean!) haven't a clue.
Next month I plan to get my car paint corrected and detailed for the first time in living memory - but, after all it is a damned Maserati after all................ Would you go out to dinner without your Rolex? C'mon........................
Tipmethewink
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Certainly there's a limit. The chap who slaved over my car tested the paint depth before setting about it and rang me up to ask if I'd had it done before because there wasn't enough paint on the rear flanks for him to correct the paint there and did he still want me to continue on with the rest of the car. I'd had the car since 2k miles so I assume it was just a shoddy job straight out of the factory but it could have been an expensive job if I'd decided to have a go at doing it and found myself down to the undercoat.
I thoroughly enjoy cleaning my GS and learning about new products to buy and try. I own a DA polisher and have just bought a rotary, but neither will go near the GS as I'm not fully confident of how to use them. I've had paint depth readings taken all over the car a couple of times and was pleased to find out there's plenty of depth to play with.
I'm going to have the car professionally detailed soon, sometime after I get back from Le Mans. I'll spend some time with the detailer annoying him by asking questions and trying to learn what he does and how/why. I may then venture towards my practice panels and other cars to have a go.
Given the amount of time it takes to detail a car, not forgetting the training and skill the detailer has built up over time, I think these guys are worth every penny when the results are so clear.
I'm going to have the car professionally detailed soon, sometime after I get back from Le Mans. I'll spend some time with the detailer annoying him by asking questions and trying to learn what he does and how/why. I may then venture towards my practice panels and other cars to have a go.
Given the amount of time it takes to detail a car, not forgetting the training and skill the detailer has built up over time, I think these guys are worth every penny when the results are so clear.
conaero
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Indeed Mark, my local guy does a special deal for me, £250 for full paint correction and detail, worth every penny.
I too have a rotary mop and I use it on anything, just go easy, use plenty of water and only switch the thing on and off whilst its in contact with the bodywork and go easy on the edges and your will be fine.
To shock you, I often take 3000 grit wet and dry to my bodywork, this I would not advocate if you are at all unsure.
I too have a rotary mop and I use it on anything, just go easy, use plenty of water and only switch the thing on and off whilst its in contact with the bodywork and go easy on the edges and your will be fine.
To shock you, I often take 3000 grit wet and dry to my bodywork, this I would not advocate if you are at all unsure.
Marwood
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Could I ask what 'full paint correction' entails?
My GS paint work looks nice (when clean) from five feet but get closer and you see that it is peppered with small chips and light scratches - 36k miles, loose chippings, motorway-monsoon pebble-dash, its seen them all.
It is not bad enough for a respray but I'm intrigued to know if a detailer could improve things? I'm fighting my natural inclination towards Obsessive Cleaning Disorder…I bought this thing to thrapp down A roads at 6am and shout with joy, not treat like a show pony…but I'm beginning to spot rusty bolts and am thinking about cleaning up the engine (its just so pretty…).
Oh heck..time to call the analyst..
My GS paint work looks nice (when clean) from five feet but get closer and you see that it is peppered with small chips and light scratches - 36k miles, loose chippings, motorway-monsoon pebble-dash, its seen them all.
It is not bad enough for a respray but I'm intrigued to know if a detailer could improve things? I'm fighting my natural inclination towards Obsessive Cleaning Disorder…I bought this thing to thrapp down A roads at 6am and shout with joy, not treat like a show pony…but I'm beginning to spot rusty bolts and am thinking about cleaning up the engine (its just so pretty…).
Oh heck..time to call the analyst..
highlander
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if poss would be interested in before and after pics next time matt. only suggest since I spent nearly 6 hours in total removing minor scratches with compound when I think boot polish and wet/dry might have been quicker...........though level of bravery may be in question!
EnzoMC
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for you I wouldn't suggest a full paint correction, it takes a detailer 3-5 days to detail the car at this level, this also cost above £600. unless the car is returned to a high level detailer you could re-introduce marks again. This type of detail is mainly for garage queen cars or cars that are only cleaned by detailers
an enhancement detail would be better and is a more common service which only costs about £150-£250, this takes about 80-90% of swirls and marks out of the paint work and improved the depth of reflection 10fold. (a term used to gauge the condition of the paint work)
as ruff outline - the paintwork is cleaned and cleaned again prior to the machine work, the paintwork is measured to see what depth of paint the detailer can work with (this is a must of any rotary or sanding work) normal paint is about 120-150 (80 is about thickness or standard paper) with various componds and pads the paintwork is flatten to remove the swirls and marks without removing too must top layer. this take about 10-15hrs, the paint is them cleaned again and prep for sealant and waxing
if your local to MK I'll be happy to help out + nice discount
Marwood
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Thanks for the advice Enzo, appreciated. I guess with stone chips there's no solution other than a respray? (Which I'm not in the market for right now…apart from anything else, its an interesting shade of blue with purple in - looks stunning in sunlight but I imagine quite difficult to match).
Thanks too for the offer but I'm based in Kingston, West London way, so not that close to MK. Do you roam this far?
M
Thanks too for the offer but I'm based in Kingston, West London way, so not that close to MK. Do you roam this far?
M
zoros
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EnzoMC - what's your opinion on the folllowing please: How much would one be expected to pay?
The work required that we discussed/agreed to carry out on your Maserati was Paint Correction. This included the removal of multiple scratches highlighted on the boot lid area, improvement of the 'road rash' areas upon the front of the vehicle & side sills (touch ups where necessary). You also mentioned you would be replacing the side sill protection pieces.
Further to the above mentioned corrections, we also discussed the likelihood of many more light marks, scratches & holograms that would appear when under the correct workshop lighting equipment.
The process which that we carry out would be as follows:
Stage 1: Pre-soak of the exterior including Tar removal & Bilberry Juice for the Alloy Wheels.
Stage 2: Snow-Foam applied to the Vehicle & allowed to soak for approx 10 minutes.
Stage 3: Following Stage 2, a hand wash using a traditional 2 bucket detailers technique, using a lambswool mitt & detailing brushes for smaller areas (as seen in your attached video)
Stage 4: Low pressure rinse of remaining soap upon the vehicle.
Stage 5: Drying of the Vehicle using a detailers technique whereby a large soft micro fibre towel is placed on the paint surface & dabbed by hand before being pulled away (also seen in the video)
Stage 6: Inspection of the Paint surface using a 'Sun light' to investigate marks, scratches & holograms.
Stage 7: Each panel worked with a compound in order to remove the surface scratches.
Stage 8: Multi Stage Polishing to restore paint colour & depth.
Stage 9: Application of high quality Carnauba Wax to protect the correction work.
Stage 10: Inspection of each individual panel.
The work required that we discussed/agreed to carry out on your Maserati was Paint Correction. This included the removal of multiple scratches highlighted on the boot lid area, improvement of the 'road rash' areas upon the front of the vehicle & side sills (touch ups where necessary). You also mentioned you would be replacing the side sill protection pieces.
Further to the above mentioned corrections, we also discussed the likelihood of many more light marks, scratches & holograms that would appear when under the correct workshop lighting equipment.
The process which that we carry out would be as follows:
Stage 1: Pre-soak of the exterior including Tar removal & Bilberry Juice for the Alloy Wheels.
Stage 2: Snow-Foam applied to the Vehicle & allowed to soak for approx 10 minutes.
Stage 3: Following Stage 2, a hand wash using a traditional 2 bucket detailers technique, using a lambswool mitt & detailing brushes for smaller areas (as seen in your attached video)
Stage 4: Low pressure rinse of remaining soap upon the vehicle.
Stage 5: Drying of the Vehicle using a detailers technique whereby a large soft micro fibre towel is placed on the paint surface & dabbed by hand before being pulled away (also seen in the video)
Stage 6: Inspection of the Paint surface using a 'Sun light' to investigate marks, scratches & holograms.
Stage 7: Each panel worked with a compound in order to remove the surface scratches.
Stage 8: Multi Stage Polishing to restore paint colour & depth.
Stage 9: Application of high quality Carnauba Wax to protect the correction work.
Stage 10: Inspection of each individual panel.