Potential Air Leak?
- Thread starter mchristyuk
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davy83
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There is a bolt on the pedal assembly which you can use to increase the output at idle, get your head in there and have a look there is a lock nut but its easy enough.
davy83
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AS long as the output voltages are within limits you should be able to get full throttle back with a calibration so don't forget the set up routine! The ECU tweaks with this while its running so its a good idea to re-calibrate once in a while. I do mine every couple of months.
davy83
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I make a contactless pedal pot for the 3200 and built a prototype for the 4200 but it was not right and i have not had the time to get back to it, i will if you guys think you need it?
Contigo
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Davy, just to be clear I measure both the white and yellow cables output direct at the pedal pot and they were both 266-267mv. I saw that nut but when I unscrewed it the arm did not move or lock in any other position. When I connect this PP up to the car without it being on the bracket connected to the accelerator pedal ie roaming free it gives no revs at all.
Someone said that if I can't get 350-400mv at idle then the PP is shot.....
Someone said that if I can't get 350-400mv at idle then the PP is shot.....
davy83
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You need to apply 5V across the two potentiometers. And then see what voltage you get out of the white and yellow wires over the rotational travel of the sensor. The two pots are separate and you can buzz out the wiring with an ohm meter reasonably easily. If you get volts out when you rotate it then its a mechanical set up problem. if it does not respond when you turn it its goosed. I have the wiring but not with me, I will make up a diagram for general reference, and post it.