Driveline Shunt

[voicey]

There should be thread lock on the splines, otherwise it'll click.

 

[mchristyuk]

There should be thread lock on the splines, otherwise it'll click.

Voicey,

It's interesting you say that.. I remember seeing something about Granturismos needing their axle thread lock redoing because it was faulty from the factory. However on the Nissans the cure is greasing the inner edge of the splines.. so the complete opposite if thread locking if ever there was one. Doing a quick Google it appears the greasing of axle splines is not uncommon.. and neither is thread locking.

Bizarre that there should be two such different approaches!

As a man of knowledge would you care to share your thoughts on the two?!

Cheers

Mark

 

[mchristyuk]

Just stumbled across this:
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/loctite-270-rear-axle-splines-106294/

In a nut shell the Jaguar documentation called for the splines to be thread locked.. however they were found to be greased from the factory!

Being rational about it I guess they both achieve the same over all effect (no clicking of splines) just by different methods. The upside to the grease approach is that it would be easier to take apart in future...

Isn't engineering fascinating

Mark

 

[conaero]

Mine had completely new driveshafts. I did wonder at the time why they just didn't re thread lock it.

Suppose that was back in the day when the Maserati Trident warranty was worth having.

 

[jluis]

Ok so a small update on this.. I'm aware that these cars have a bit of slack in the diff and driveline shunt at stop start speeds.. and 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st can be a bit clonky.. but this was driving me up the wall because under 30mph I could play tunes with the rear of my car and application of the accelerator.

Going over speed bumps or round corners the car was silent.. it was purely acceleration/deceleration related. Everything on the car was in good order and tight when checked on the ramps. There was a suggestion it could be the lower shock bushes.. but on inspection they were fine too.

I was convinced it was "torque" related and therefore one of the twisty bits.. so the axles and universal joints were my chief suspect, however a few things started to fall in place over the past week which I hadn't really managed to "2+2=4" them...

Firstly going up hill it didn't do it. Only on the level.

Secondly it was audibly coming from the right hand side of the car. If I put the passenger window down it sounded just like it was coming from the rear somewhere. Put the drivers window down and clonk... clonk.. clonk...

I bet you can see what's coming...

Tonight I had to tighten up the connectors on the 12v battery as they had been bodged at some point in their former life (or from the factory.. who knows!). When I was torquing them down I noticed the battery shift. Hmm.. The battery clamp was tightened down as far as it would go and the strapping appeared tight, however I could quite easily slide the battery forwards and backwards. You have to be kidding me.... So I stuffed a rag under the strapping as a temporary fix and.. low and behold no more clonking when I play with the accelerator once on the move.

Shoot me.

Mark

I had the same symptom on my BMW and tought it was the driveshaft coupler that went.
Turns out it was my wife can of deodorant going back and forth in the glove box

 

[voicey]

In my opinion, greasing them is a non permanent fix as the grease will migrate itself out of the gap over time. The downside to thread lock is that they can be a bugger to release if there is too much lock in there.