CatmanV2
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Yes indeed, permanent and switched will allow that. If you turn the head off, does the popping stop? There's possible a remote 'on' cable from the Becker to turn the amp on.....
C
A funny thing happened when I connected the radio..
- Thread starter rhubarbe
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Yes indeed, permanent and switched will allow that. If you turn the head off, does the popping stop? There's possible a remote 'on' cable from the Becker to turn the amp on.....
C
spkennyuk
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I have the Pioneer sph20dab. The on off button is the music note half way up the unit on the left hand side. Press it once to turn on and press and hold to turn off.
The amp is bypassed on mine and the pioneer unit is 4 x 50 W which is plenty loud and powerfull enough to make the speakers complain before it runs out of headroom on the stereo itself.
I would bypass the amp and go from there. Its a simple unplug the cable at each end of the amp and the cable itself fits together with male and female connectors.
spkennyuk
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Did you press the reset button ?
If you take the front panel off there is a recessed button which you have to depress with a pin or similar tool. Its toward middle of the unit after you unclip the front face of the stereo.
If the reset doesn't work then check the fuse on the back of the stereo. I think its a 10 amp/ red blade fuse.
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CatmanV2
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Best guess amp is turned off at the same time, popping stops. Without diving in with a multimeter, I'm sticking with a fritzed amp, I'm afraid
C
OK, so the Becker Grand Prix arrived I'm sorry installed at this morning first I put in the wires that control the speakers and no sound at all, or rather no popping and crackling at all.
Next I connected the clear connector and was rewarded with the same amount of popping and crackling as I had with the old Becker Infotainment unit.
However on this occasion I have the radio code and I had the opportunity to insert the radio code without having to wait 3,700 seconds so I turned on the unit and entered the code.
I tested the balance treble base and fader controls and these all seem to work I could hear the sound moving from the front to the rear of the car although the rear parcels shelf speakers don't seem to do very much I have to say. The gentleman who sold me the unit had left a seed in it so I was able to test the CD as it is a single shot CD I did not get around to trying the CD changer but it really doesn't matter in the great scheme of things if that doesn't work as he had included an iPod cable for the Becker Grand Prix. Whoop whoop. I hate that noise.
I notice that the crackling and popping can be modulated if that's the right word by moving the cables behind the console almost as if one of them's kind of damaged or got a short circuit on it and if I don't move the radio unit and don't move the wires sometimes you can get maybe 20 seconds without any popping or cracking but the volume is inconsistent sometimes it's very quiet and then all of a sudden it'll go deafening even though I haven't touched the volume control I assume rightly or wrongly that this is the amplifier that's causing the problem but I do not feel confident to go in the boot and disconnect the amplifier as I am an electronics nincompoop and we are going on holiday at four o'clock in the morning.
Any further input would be greatly appreciated, gentlemen.
Next I connected the clear connector and was rewarded with the same amount of popping and crackling as I had with the old Becker Infotainment unit.
However on this occasion I have the radio code and I had the opportunity to insert the radio code without having to wait 3,700 seconds so I turned on the unit and entered the code.
I tested the balance treble base and fader controls and these all seem to work I could hear the sound moving from the front to the rear of the car although the rear parcels shelf speakers don't seem to do very much I have to say. The gentleman who sold me the unit had left a seed in it so I was able to test the CD as it is a single shot CD I did not get around to trying the CD changer but it really doesn't matter in the great scheme of things if that doesn't work as he had included an iPod cable for the Becker Grand Prix. Whoop whoop. I hate that noise.
I notice that the crackling and popping can be modulated if that's the right word by moving the cables behind the console almost as if one of them's kind of damaged or got a short circuit on it and if I don't move the radio unit and don't move the wires sometimes you can get maybe 20 seconds without any popping or cracking but the volume is inconsistent sometimes it's very quiet and then all of a sudden it'll go deafening even though I haven't touched the volume control I assume rightly or wrongly that this is the amplifier that's causing the problem but I do not feel confident to go in the boot and disconnect the amplifier as I am an electronics nincompoop and we are going on holiday at four o'clock in the morning.
Any further input would be greatly appreciated, gentlemen.
Thanks very much. Do you think that disconnecting the amp will result in the cessation of the pops and crackles?
What I don't understand though, is if the black connector carries the signals for all the speakers, how the speakers get the signal if the amp is disconnected?
What I don't understand though, is if the black connector carries the signals for all the speakers, how the speakers get the signal if the amp is disconnected?
CatmanV2
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As I tried to explain up there (without success, sorry!) the black connector is carrying the signal *for* the speakers, but not *too* the speakers. It's a high level signal that *can* drive speakers, but, in fact, it's going to the amp first. The speakers are not connected to the head unit, they are connected to the amplifier.
The amp will need to be bypassed (i.e. you need to connect the input cables of the amp to the output cables of the amp). This will allow the head to drive the speakers directly. Just disconnecting the amp will leave the speakers connected to a dead amp.
Does that make sense? If not I can scribble it on a napkin and send you a photo?
C
Yes, that makes perfect sense, thanks. I'm sure I read somewhere on another thread that the amp can be easily bypassed, though admittedly that was fir a 4200 from memory; though maybe it's the same in practice for the Gransport?
I booked it in for an installer to put me an aftermarket SPH-20DAB in, and he was going to leave the amp inline and active. Given what we now suspect am I better telling him to bypass the amp, or is he likely to start messing with the Skyhook CPU which sits uncomfortably close to the amp?
I booked it in for an installer to put me an aftermarket SPH-20DAB in, and he was going to leave the amp inline and active. Given what we now suspect am I better telling him to bypass the amp, or is he likely to start messing with the Skyhook CPU which sits uncomfortably close to the amp?
CatmanV2
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I suspect it's like this:
1) Remove plug A from input side of amp
2) Remove plug B from output side of amp
3) Insert plug A into plug B (yes I know A will actually be a flying socket but let's not get over complex)
4) Drink DiSaronno
C
spkennyuk
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Its exactly like that for the 4200 and Gransport. Step 4 is optional.
