4200 Classico remote boot opening how to

[SpyderNick]

Hi mike,
That's true.

There is one thing that I have just thought of. if using a press to open followed by a press to release the Open Relay and the same for Closing.
Is that if you forget to press again to release the relay after the roof has either opened or closed then it will in effect be the same as leaving your finger on the button.
This may have a power drain implication but also what will happen If that is still the state when you then either open or close as then there will be power to both open and close effectively as if you had your finger on both sides of the rocker at the same time. I guess you can include a led in the circuit to indicate when each relay is in the closed position
but that's not really ideal.
The ideal solution would be to have the remote continuously send a close relay signal until you release, I cant seem to find a remote/relay that does that.

 

[mjheathcote]

Looking at the instructions for the remote you refer to, there is the option for 'spot move'...you have to keep the button pressed on the remote to keep the relay energised. That's what you want isn't it? One button to open, one button to close.
I think!

Edit: Actually that's a cracking piece of kit...one button to open the boot, one to open the fuel filler flap, one to fold the mirrors, one to close the roof on a spyder....!

 

[SpyderNick]

Hi Mike,

You are absolutely right, I had totally miss read the description of "Spot Move" in the manual. I guess I wanted it so much I couldn't see it in front of me
Just need to check if the max load of 7amps is to small, Does anyone know where I can check the amperage of the roof switch wiring and the Mirror fold ?
I will take a look at Eurospares and I also have some PDF manuals.

 

[mjheathcote]

Remove the fuse, and plug in one of these!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fuse-...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ccb3df075
Must treat myself to one!

 

[CatmanV2]

Remove the fuse, and plug in one of these!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fuse-...iagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ccb3df075
Must treat myself to one!

Nick, Matt's right. Simply use that on board one to switch the existing relay. If the switch is passing >7A, I'm a dutchman. What I would say, though, is that Id expect the fuse to be the 'other' side of the relay, so showing the full draw of the roof motors. This might well lead you to the false conclusion that you need 15A switching. I think this is *really* unlikely. Simply wire two of the relays in that remote to the switch, so effectively one channel drops 12v down the open connection, and one down the close.
Then you just need to get power to the motors

C

 

[CatmanV2]

Can I also add that that manual is *genius*.

I assume 'public' in this context means 'common' ROTFLMAO

C

 

[bill]

Guys,
as brilliant as this suggestion is, you need to seriously think about boot and/ hood opening when you really do not want them to...! A few suggestions:

you are doing 70 mph ( at lest !) and Johnnie decides to press the button.

would it open when the car is locked?

I think the key is to use existing (or new) interlocks so these possibilities are taken care off

Cheers

 

[CatmanV2]

Very good call Bill. I would *hope* that the interlock takes place downstream of the switch. That is I am assuming that if you're driving along, and press the factory button, the roof doesn't do anything. That being the case, simply duplicating the action of the switch using a relay will mean the same interlocks are in place.

Should be tested, of course. I'd be more concerned about a short if the remote was pressed to 'open' and the factory button pressed to 'close' simultaneously. Not likely, but....

C

 

[SpyderNick]

That's was my thinking on the safegauards catman.
However power to the control unit and motors is a issue.
If the control unit handles all the power to the motors/pump then I just need to include a relay to power when the button is pressed.
If not then its more involved isolating all of the motors and running power to them (not really worth it and dangerous if one moter power fails and the roof opens incorrectly damaging it)

There is one other thing even if the control unit powers the motors/pump, what will it do if it does not receive the info (boot, sped etc) from the ECU because the car/ECU is powerd off ?

 

[CatmanV2]

That's was my thinking on the safegauards catman.
However power to the control unit and motors is a issue.
If the control unit handles all the power to the motors/pump then I just need to include a relay to power when the button is pressed.
If not then its more involved isolating all of the motors and running power to them (not really worth it and dangerous if one moter power fails and the roof opens incorrectly damaging it)

There is one other thing even if the control unit powers the motors/pump, what will it do if it does not receive the info (boot, sped etc) from the ECU because the car/ECU is powerd off ?

Ahh yep. So I'm willing to bet that the motors. pump and so on will not be powered by the swtich, but rather the relay. Simple to check, though. Feed 12v to the switch terminals as per your original test, but with the ignition off.

And that will also show you *maybe* catastrophically, if it's getting the correct signals from the ECU. Which I hadn't even considered, and bet bottom dollar it won't be.

I think we may have found a blocker...

I wonder if the mirrors are the same. Rather simpler. I'll have a poke when I'm installing the Parrot.

C

 

[SpyderNick]

I will be putting in the boot release tomorrow.

But i have thought more about the Hood /Mirror remote by remotely turning the ignition to the ON position by the relay attached to the remote. This should ensure that no safe guards are over ridden and also that all systems will be initialised.

The car would need to be Disarmed but Its really I guess its never going to be 100%

 

[CatmanV2]

Hmm, now's *theres* a thought.

I can see some potential risks: foremost 'don't forget to turn the ignition off'

What you really want is a little PIC to do a 'ignition on, wait 5 secs, activate roof, wait n secs, ignition off' all on one push. Or at least a timed relay that turns off again after (say) 2 minutes.

Feel free to ping me if you get issues with the boot release, Nick. I'll be around most of the day. Can let you have a mobile as well.

C

 

[SpyderNick]

There shouldn't be an issue with turning the ignition off, my thoughts were to have a relay run by the same control so when you hold the remote button down it operates a relay to close the switch (up or down) and also a relay to close the ignition on. As soon as you release the button both relays open it returns to normal status.

The issue with a fire and forget button is you cant stop it if you see something going wrong with the roof. I would want to be able to stop it at any point and reverse if there was something obviously going wrong with any part of the roof mechanism.
I have read of roofs that have twisted and started to bend bars, so being able to halt the damage from going any further is my "Human" failsafe !!

 

[CatmanV2]

Yep, makes sense. Have you already bought your remote?

C

 

[SpyderNick]

I have then boot remote that I am fitting this morning. I haven't bought one for the roof/mirrors yet as I want to confirm my planning first as it may necessitate
a different remote.

with the right remote I may beable to pair the fob with the boot remote, maybe !!

 

[CatmanV2]

Maybe, or simply remove the one you're putting in today. You should have enough channels.

C

 

[SpyderNick]

problem to start with.

My spyder is not wired the same, there is no run of cables across the back of the boot going to the side of the battery.

I have identified the blue and white cable going through the rubber sheath from boot id to boot but after connecting a test cable to it and testing against the positive of the battery there is nothing, when I press the glove box button I get a click . so not sure if the blue/white is the correct one on my car, seems odd though, 52 plate spyder.

 

[CatmanV2]

Ahh ok.

You need to unlock on the *key* before running that test. The solenoid will only fire once before it needs resetting by closing the boot. The click is coming from the relay.
The cable bundle should be across the rear most angle of the boot. The Eurospares diagram shows it to be there

I'll PM you my mobile.

C

 

[SpyderNick]

All done.

Strange that the cabling is different in my Spyder but a got around it in the end.

Many Thanks to Catman for this "how to", his support and offer of help.

I now will take my time planning the roof/mirror remote.

 

[CatmanV2]

My pleasure, Nick.

C