4200 Alternator

CatmanV2

Member
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48,852
Been getting a little squeak on a cold engine. Clearly not engine speed, but clearly engine speed related.

Quick poke around this afternoon: It appears that it's the alternator (it's precisely in time with the rotation as far as I can tell)

Soo, I though there was an alternative, but can't find it on the part list.

I'd rather not fork out £400 plus fitting. So is there an alternative, or do we think it's a rebuildable unit?

Secondly, how urgent is this? No electrical gremlins as yet, but I'd leave it until the 81k service in about 3k miles time.

TIA

C
 

MAF260

Member
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7,662
Chris, are you sure it's the alternator? It's quite common for the idler pulley to the right of the alternator (as you look at the front of the engine) to squeak. I thought I had the same issue and it turned out to be the idler pulley which then went quiet!
 

CatmanV2

Member
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48,852
Thanks Mark

*Pretty* sure. It very much sounds like it's coming from there, but I've not got a stethoscope on it yet.

Problem is as it only squeaks when cold, it makes the troubleshooting window limited :)

I've stuck some spray into the alternator bearing (at least as much as possible) I'll see what happens next cold start. If there's no improvement, I'll treat the idler the same way.

Clearly I'd rather it was the idler :)

C
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
I was convinced mine came from the alternator when I listened closely to the engine. I sprayed WD40 liberally all over it and the squeaking stopped for a limited time, only to return - it would appear that the WD40 had got onto the drive belt and applied itself to the pulley, hence the squeak disappearing. FYI my alternator also showed no signs of malfunction.
 

CatmanV2

Member
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48,852
Cheers.
So far there is nothing unexpected about the electrics. I'm pretty sure the battery is a tad ropey, but has been for a year + now.

WD40 to the pulley sometime soon then :) £50 I'll be far happier with.

C
 

Klive

Junior Member
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724
C there's a good guy in Bush Fair that can test and recondition at a much better price than the OEM if you need to do any more than give it a squirt.
 

CatmanV2

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48,852
C there's a good guy in Bush Fair that can test and recondition at a much better price than the OEM if you need to do any more than give it a squirt.

Ahh *yes*, I recall now.
How much was it, Klive? Just a bit of a bugger to get sorted.
C
 

Klive

Junior Member
Messages
724
It was a tenner for a complete strip down and test for me but then there was nothing wrong with mine! The initial test on his test bed was free.
He said he can get the components for the make so if a repair is required he'll definetly be cheaper than new.
 

maser_4200

Junior Member
Messages
86
If you do replace the battery eventually, the Bosch S6 AGM battery works very nicely in my experience. They are more geared for new BMWs etc. with stop/start, but a great (if slightly expensive!) in this application.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,852
Cheers Klive. I guess it would br more likely that I'll let Felice deal with it, unless you want to tell me it's *really* easy to get off ;)

Maser_4200 indeed, that has been one of the recommended batteries. Mine is some POS no brand. But it's been fine for 2.5 years showing exactly the same symptoms.

C
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Cheers.
So far there is nothing unexpected about the electrics. I'm pretty sure the battery is a tad ropey, but has been for a year + now.

WD40 to the pulley sometime soon then :) £50 I'll be far happier with.

When your Auxiliary Drive Multi V belt wear's down to the metal in the rubber coating, this is when you hear the squealing!

Then It's time to give some one a 100 quid or so
plus vat to replace it.....

Dave
 

Klive

Junior Member
Messages
724
Cheers Klive. I guess it would br more likely that I'll let Felice deal with it, unless you want to tell me it's *really* easy to get off ;)
C

It's not difficult. I suggest a couple of new gaskets for the inlet manifold and a jubilee clip. Otherwise it's pulling pipes off and 16 nuts. I've got the tools and am willing to pop round and give a hand. There's a very good how to on here.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,852
Well that may well be a plan, sir.

How easy is swapping out the top tensioner pulley? Any idea?

C
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Its a fairly easy operation what with the pulley wheels/tensioner's and stuff,Its the parts that cost...

Dave
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Ok then C, go and change your aux belt next weekend and let us know how you get on...You'll have lots of spare time as It's a Bank Holiday weekend!

Dave
 

Gary687

Junior Member
Messages
212
Hi Catman

From memory (and I'll try and dig it out for you over the next day or so) this issue was the subject of a factory recall back in the day as the idler pulley wheel/tensioner had a habit of doing this and the end result was a squeak. It clearly stated that this would not harm the engine in any way, it was just something that was to be changed if the customer complained etc. As I say, if I can find it then I'll post it up...

G
 

Gary687

Junior Member
Messages
212
OK found it. Don't know how to attach a PDF so have copied and pasted!!


1
MASERATI NORTH AMERICA, INC.
TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPARTMENT
TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Section Section serial n° Bulletin n° Date Pages
1 43 200722 13 August 2007 5
MODEL: M138 (all models), M139 (all models)
SUBJECT: Auxiliary Belt Noise

In case of customer complaint of a squealing noise, or in case of a squealing noise
occurring during PDI, then it is necessary to replace the accessory belt (Figure 1,
Callout 1) AND align the alternator pulley.

Figure 1
This bulletin is organized in the following sections:
A. Important Notes
B. Procedure for Resolving the Noise from the Auxiliary Belt
C. Warranty Information
2
A. Important Notes
• The following vehicles are affected by the noise:
All M139 (DuoSelect and Automatic) up to an including Assembly #
33414
All M138
• The root cause of the noise could be the belt having poor alignment across the
alternator pulley.
• This issue does NOT cause damage or rupture of the belt, nor loss of integrity
and function; it only causes noise.
• Refer to the Technical Documentation to correctly identify the parts and the
operating procedure referenced in this document.
• Protect all exposed parts against possible damage
3
B. Procedure for Resolving the Noise from the Auxiliary Belt
1. Remove the air filter assembly and intake
manifold to gain access to the belt (refer
the Service Manual)
2. Loosen the mounting screw on the right
side of the alternator (A, Figure 2), and
remove the mounting screw on the left side
of the alternator (B, Figure 2).
Figure 2
3. Set the distance between the interior side
of the front bushing and the left cylinder
head according to the following
specifications per model:
• 3 ± 0.1 mm for M139 Automatic
• 2 ± 0.1 mm for M139 DuoSelect and
all M138
NOTE: It is recommended to use a thickness
gauge to verify the final, adjusted distance. Figure 3
4. Tighten the left rear bushing until there is
no space between it the bushing and the
alternator (Arrows, Figure 4).
Figure 4
4
5. Screw (without tightening) the screw on the
left mounting side of the alternator (B,
Figure 5), while keeping the rear bushing
locked in place.
Figure 5
6. Tighten the screw of the right mounting
side of the alternator (Arrow, Figure 6) to a
value of 49 Nm.
Figure 6
7. Tighten the screw of the left side of the
alternator (B, Figure 7) to a value of 49 Nm,
while keeping the rear bushing locked in
place.
8. Reassemble the intake manifold and air
filter assembly.
Figure 7
5
C. Warranty Information
FOR M139
• Component code 1.11.002
• Labor operation 1.11.002.9 (4h)
• Problem code 67
• Cost code 16
FOR M138
• Component code 8.20.005
• Labor operation 8.20.005.9 (3h)
• Problem code 67
• Cost code 16
Blue on Line Report is NOT REQUIRED
ABM Authorization is NOT REQUIRED