2004 4200 stereo replacement

[ffina3]

I have spent a lot of time researching my upgrade in my 4200 and have all the parts, primarily kenwood and purchased on eBay. I wish I was doing an upgrade to an apple compatible system, but the space constraints in the area where the existing display is located will require more engineering than I think it is worth. I followed the lead of sprocket mensch on the USA forum but I am doing a couple of things slightly differently. I have enlisted a friend who is a hardware engineer and we are making a board to convert the rgb and sync signal out of the NIT to composite video and going to input it into the AV-1 input of the kenwood V500. I can then access it as one of the selections on the kenwood menu. I was able to locate the manufacturer of the NIT cable connectors and am making up a jumper cable with the board so I don’t have to cut the wires. I also put two micro switches in the bezel that Doug made so I can switch from trip A to trip B as and reset them. I am going to bury the LCD unit under the dash. I have quite an extensive Dropbox folder of info and photos and you are welcome to it if you send me a PM with your email. Regards, fil

 

[2b1ask1]

Hi Fil, I'd like to say I understood all of that but a good deal of it was way over my head. Please post up the results and If I understand correctly you are making use of the signal from the NIT so it should not upset the CAN-BUS, is that correct?

 

[ffina3]

Yes. Using the NIT video signal and not disturbing the can bus. I want to keep the trip computer and hvac display available without keeping the entire OEM display and bezel. So I hide the bezel and associated electronics under the dash as Doug, et.al. Have done So I can keep all the original functionality, relocate the hazard light switch and install a complete circa 2010 kenwood system. From what I can tell, t hey installed a relay to break the NIT video line and send it to the kenwood display. I convert it instead and send it as a video in signal to the kenwood. I'll post a sketch of my schematic. It's not a bad system if you can find all the old kenwood parts. Doug may still have some bezels, and he does have the CAD drawings. Alternatively, you could scan and 3D print a bezel to fit a more modern removable faceplate and use my video conversion board with any system with an available video input. Which is the direction I started going in. Then I decided that I would rather drive the car than monkey around with the stereo. So instead of reinventing the wheel, I tracked down the parts and partys and am doing the install now.

 

[2b1ask1]

Welcome the input and look forward to schematics as I have a lad who is studying electronic engineering and a nephew with a 3D printer

 

[w1lde1]

I must admit I'm lost


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[CatmanV2]

Translation:
He's taking the proprietory signal the NIT puts out, and converting it to a standard video signal that a Kenwood screen can display.
So the original infotainment screen gets buried somewhere out of sight, and a new screen and bezel are fitted. This allows retention of all the HVAC and similar data *and* should allow a better audio system.

Hope that helps

C

 

[w1lde1]

Makes more sense


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[CatmanV2]

Makes more sense


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I try

C

 

[w1lde1]

Just had this reply, does this seem high?

"average cost of £2500 using focal or hertz equipment"

I assume this is a new head unit sitting behind existing fascia with new speakers.

At least this gives me confidence that it can be done


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[ffina3]

Catman has it right. I sent you a detailed PM. Now I told you more than I know.

Actually, I'll post more info as my install proceeds over the next few weeks. Need to get it complete so I can drive it as the temperature here is starting to rise into the positive (Fahrenheit).

Regards, Fil.

 

[Wack61]

Translation:
He's taking the proprietory signal the NIT puts out, and converting it to a standard video signal that a Kenwood screen can display.
So the original infotainment screen gets buried somewhere out of sight, and a new screen and bezel are fitted. This allows retention of all the HVAC and similar data *and* should allow a better audio system.

Hope that helps

C

I'll wait for the pictures

 

[w1lde1]

Great thanks


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[w1lde1]

Hi, Am i right in thinking the speakers can be removed without the whole door panel coming off? Looking at other post it seems that the speaker plate pops off with a little force then you unscrew the speak from the door. Same goes for tweeter. I am assuming rear ones are the same?

 

[safrane]

Fronts - Main one just flick the cover off and you will see the screws.

Tweeter is held in with spring clips. Take care not to damage the surround and the plastic fake leather on the door card.

 

[CatmanV2]

What Pete said. The large grills are not in fact symetrical. One of the tags is a L-shaped one, which the others are triangular. If I recall the L-shaped one should be at the top, so try to prise off from the bottom first.

C

 

[w1lde1]

Thanks, checked and both pop off nicely. Just now need to find speakers and away i go