I was going to take the front bumper assembly off soon anyway. So with that off and rad out I may be able to get torque on the nut?Main problem to replace the leaky o-ring is timing cover off but that requires the crank pulley off and the bolt is silly tight with limited access.
Presume the easiest way to access is nose off the car and radiators removed?
Yeah I changed the complete assembly on the 4200 I took to New Zealand.
It doesn’t seems to go above 1/4 when stationary or running. what are your thoughts on the flickering oil pressure gauge last week? It was like an electrical fault with the gauge as the needle was flickering. It occurred once when the engine was cool and latterly when hot. If it had anything to do with the shaft in the pumps surely it would not go up and down so quickly? Also no sign of water in the oil or oil in the water!Also low coolant temp is probably just the thermostat stuck open - take it when your stationary the temp increases to normal?
That’s not too bad to replace.
Thanks for that. The flickering gauge stopped a few days ago and I drove it 2 hours yesterday all with good oil pressure ie 5??Yeah I changed the complete assembly on the 4200 I took to New Zealand.
It's a complex job but certainly doable on the floor with the car on stands and I used my engine crane to lift the motor up a little to give me some clearance.
The flickering oil pressure usually means the oil pump splines are rusted away.
How are you locking the crank to undo this bolt? As probably need the front cover off my project car due to oil leakage. Cheers400nm for the front crank nut you won’t be able to do it on a jack as the bar required is a meter long and you won’t have the clearance.
The oil pressure sender unit is also another well known weak point.Thanks for that. The flickering gauge stopped a few days ago and I drove it 2 hours yesterday all with good oil pressure ie 5??
If the splines were gone it wouldn’t correct itself would it?
Thanks
Yes the oil / water pump is the worst case scenario.It doesn’t seems to go above 1/4 when stationary or running. what are your thoughts on the flickering oil pressure gauge last week? It was like an electrical fault with the gauge as the needle was flickering. It occurred once when the engine was cool and latterly when hot. If it had anything to do with the shaft in the pumps surely it would not go up and down so quickly? Also no sign of water in the oil or oil in the water!
If you’re doing that soon it’s not much more to get the rads out the way then get a decent impact gun on the bolt.I was going to take the front bumper assembly off soon anyway. So with that off and rad out I may be able to get torque on the nut?
Engine sounds and feels greatThe oil pressure sender unit is also another well known weak point.
As long as the engine sounds sweet it's most likely that.
It drops a bit when warm maybe to 3 bar.Does the oil pressure drop to about 2 bar at idle with the engine warm, or does it stay at 5 bar? If it doesn't drop that indicates failed sender.
Thermostats often stick open or open too early when they need replacement.
Thanks a good plan, worth a tryRegarding the oil pressure switch might be worth taking the spade connector off and giving the terminal a clean with a bit of wet & dry sandpaper. They’re not very robust things from my experience.