Window Regulator Fix

CraigWaterman11

Sponsor
Messages
762
This is what eventually happens if you don't weld or alternatively bolt (like the OP did above) the arm so that the regulator can't push and grid down the end of the teeth. On my website page for this I advocate for a peremptory fix against it because of this very reason. The factory spot welds just can not hold against the torque of the regulator for the window. It starts out by rocking the arm just enough to begin to grind the teeth down. If it doesn't completely push it out of the way so the window stops working this happens. Sorry I cannot answer your question, I just wanted to ad this so hopefully we can keep people from experiencing the same thing. Also if you do it before it becomes an issue you don't need to try to perfectly line the brackets back up in order to weld/bolt them.
 

Frog3200

Junior Member
Messages
53
Thanks Craig for your explanations. I'm also discovering your web site, great !
Anyone can tell me why a 916 regulator won't fit ?
Thanks
 

NickP

Member
Messages
1,623
I have two spare motors, I replaced mine this year, I bought motor and then found it was the teeth on the arm that were worn, I got a 2nd hand one off a breaker complete for £50....
 

Frog3200

Junior Member
Messages
53
Thanks Nick, I know now : the 916's one has actually the same teeth plate, but it's welted 3/4 cm donwnward or upward but the same plate...

The 3200

IMG_2549.jpg

and the 916

IMG_2632.jpg
 

Frog3200

Junior Member
Messages
53
Hi,
Here we go I managed to fix my 3200 mecanism using an old GTV916 donnor...

I unwelded the gear and rewelded it properly on the 3200's. It seems working OK after remounting. Will see over time...


thumb_IMG_2634_1024.jpg

thumb_IMG_2638_1024.jpg
 

Koz

Member
Messages
495
Nice fix!

I had to change mine on the old Spyder because the motor's gears had conked out. Unfortunately I wasn't aware of the forum at the time to discover it could easily be replaced, so I bought a new lifting assembly. That said, it all worked perfectly after I swapped it all and it is indeed a pretty easy job - even to align the glass.

That leaves one thing... I have a spare RH assembly with all the metal stuff intact - just a motor that needs replacing. If anyone wants it, get in touch.
Hi it’s probably a long shot, but do you still have the RH assembly available?
Thanks.
 

Koz

Member
Messages
495
Apparently so Spartacus. With the 4200 ones being made of slightly stronger cheese. I think that the part number for the 3200 ends in 40 and was super ceded by 4200 one ending in 50
 

davy83

Member
Messages
2,823
One other thing worth mentioning here is i had problem with the window mechanisms on my 3200 and I got motor assemblies for the 4200 and managed to a make a frankenmotor from the two which uses the much stronger worm gear and motor from the 4200 and its been bullet proof ever since. It was not straight forward i remember but it can be done, and I think the 4200 parts are newer, cheaper and much stronger. just thought i would throw that one in there :)
 

TimR

Member
Messages
2,731
Can I assume that if my drivers window rattles when fully up, it is the teeth that have worn at the top of the stroke ,where the glass drops on entry...
I had originally thought I could open the door card and secure the pane in the carrier rail but reading this makes me wonder if there is even a carrier rail....!?