Some technical direction needed...!

TimR

Member
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1,208
Where can I find torque settings for the various nuts and bolts of the suspension anatomy ?
I have a workshop manual. It covers the engine..and seemingly stops there.
Any suggestions where I might find hub/bearings/struts/calipers/track rod numbers and the like please fellas....?

thnx for looking!
 

davy83

Member
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2,138
Haha i would be interested too, I also have the workshop manual and its not great for this stuff. Have you checked the torque is not in the text? Quite a few of the tightening torques in the workshop manual are not listed separately but mentioned in the text. I guess if some one was real patient we could list all of these.
 

Lozzer

Member
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985
Hi , here's a link to the suspension part I have. Like Dave says most torques are in the text.
 

TimR

Member
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1,208
Um..Im pretty ignorant technically but have a few years experience of fixing bikes ';til they're broken.
Saying that said; I cant believe how "not very tight" most of the nuts and bolts are under the wheel arches so far !! Wow ! :oops:
 

Oneball

Member
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1,552
Remember when tightening up a lot of suspension components ( the ones with bushes) it needs to done with the suspension compressed to the normal ride height.
 

Zep

Moderator
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3,337
Remember when tightening up a lot of suspension components ( the ones with bushes) it needs to done with the suspension compressed to the normal ride height.
Interestingly, because of the flanbloc type inner bushes, on the 3200 / 4200 / GS it doesn’t make any difference. The inner part is clamped to the subframe and the outer rotates (relatively) freely around the central spindle.
 

Gp79

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1,022
Interestingly, because of the flanbloc type inner bushes, on the 3200 / 4200 / GS it doesn’t make any difference. The inner part is clamped to the subframe and the outer rotates (relatively) freely around the central spindle.
I was under the impression that the flanblocs where all bonded so the only movement was the flex in the rubber bush, so it is important to only fully torque everything when the suspension is under its normal load.
 

Oneball

Member
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1,552
Interestingly, because of the flanbloc type inner bushes, on the 3200 / 4200 / GS it doesn’t make any difference. The inner part is clamped to the subframe and the outer rotates (relatively) freely around the central spindle.
Flanbloc is a trade name. If it's a Flanbloc inner and outer are bonded together. Could be a different sort of bush though. But even some that seem free in your hand are then compressed when installed so the rotation is an elastic deformation of the rubber.
 

Oneball

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Having said that I do remember them being pretty free to move when on the car. So you may be right
 

Zep

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Ah, that’s how they describe them in the parts list. When I cut one in half there is a pre-greased metal sleeve inside the rubber that rotates around the central spindle which is clamped by the bolt. The only time the rubber (what there is of it, it’s about 4mm thick) deforms is from road shocks.
 

Zep

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3,337
I was under the impression that the flanblocs where all bonded so the only movement was the flex in the rubber bush, so it is important to only fully torque everything when the suspension is under its normal load.
No, the rubber is bonded to the outer that locates in the wishbone, the inner is actually greased to allow movement.
 

Oneball

Member
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1,552
Ah, that’s how they describe them in the parts list. When I cut one in half there is a pre-greased metal sleeve inside the rubber that rotates around the central spindle which is clamped by the bolt. The only time the rubber (what there is of it, it’s about 4mm thick) deforms is from road shocks.
That’s a pivot or Fluidbloc bush. Explains why the arms are so floppy when you remove the shock.
 

TimR

Member
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1,208
Nothing I’ve read yet, describes torque values be set under load....including the lower shock mount.
 

TimR

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1,208
Sorry to be a pain but I want to know what torque value for the four cap head screws that fix the wheel bearing to the hub carrier, if anyone knows it please.....

:)
 

TimR

Member
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1,208
I need to seperate the upper & lower hub carrier ball joints to replace the hub carrier. Preferring a ball joint separator to a pickle fork type - the one i have offers a 15mm throat. It doesnt seem wide enough. I am struggling to feel confident that Im not acting on the body of the tapered insert, unable as I am to see clearly under the boot and heat shield....
Anyone know what throat width I need please..?
 
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Evo Cymru

Junior Member
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540
Sorry I cant remember the width but I just modified my existing scissor type to fit with the angle grinder and still works fine for the other cars. Needed to be quite a large gap as I recall.
 

Zep

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