Saving a 3200 from the scrap heap!
- Thread starter Spitfire980
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Spitfire980
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Well, im not getting the key logo on the dash and since im getting spark and pressure at the rails, im assuming the immobilizer has been disengaged
It fired up the 1st time, reved to 1,000 rpm then died after 1-2 seconds. I assumed the tank was empty so filled her up with 20L. Now it just cranks and turns over but doesn't fire up
The mechanic said he did that but ill give it another shot
Ill order it by the truck load!
Spitfire980
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Update:
Replaced both pumps with the correct bosch ones along with the in-tank filter/rubber isolators and submersible fuel lines. Cleaned out the external fuel filter and blew pressurized air through the pipes from the tank all the way to the fuel rails to get any gunk out of the lines.
Pressure was good at the schrader valves but just to confirm, I held up the injectors in the air while the mechanic cranked the engine and watched the injectors actually open and close so scratched the possibility of the injectors not getting the command to open and shut
Checked each coil by removing them, putting a spark plug and cranking and watching the plug spark just to confirm that there is a spark
So I'm getting spark and fuel but it still wont start....sometimes it sounds like it wants to start but other times it will just crank
Sometimes ill get the ASR and check engine at the self diagnostic at 2nd key
Other times, ill get ASR, check engine and oil level for some weird reason
Iv tried resetting the TB and my mechanic confirmed the TB move to my commands (just to confirm, MAR is 2nd switch on the ignition right?)
Here is how she sits as of right now
Im starting to suspect the timing sensor got damaged when I removed it to get the cover powedercoated (its a theory) or my TB is bad (although from my research it will run but will be in limp mode or wont rev past 2k)
Any help/ideas/theories would be appreciated
Replaced both pumps with the correct bosch ones along with the in-tank filter/rubber isolators and submersible fuel lines. Cleaned out the external fuel filter and blew pressurized air through the pipes from the tank all the way to the fuel rails to get any gunk out of the lines.
Pressure was good at the schrader valves but just to confirm, I held up the injectors in the air while the mechanic cranked the engine and watched the injectors actually open and close so scratched the possibility of the injectors not getting the command to open and shut
Checked each coil by removing them, putting a spark plug and cranking and watching the plug spark just to confirm that there is a spark
So I'm getting spark and fuel but it still wont start....sometimes it sounds like it wants to start but other times it will just crank
Sometimes ill get the ASR and check engine at the self diagnostic at 2nd key
Other times, ill get ASR, check engine and oil level for some weird reason
Iv tried resetting the TB and my mechanic confirmed the TB move to my commands (just to confirm, MAR is 2nd switch on the ignition right?)
Here is how she sits as of right now
Im starting to suspect the timing sensor got damaged when I removed it to get the cover powedercoated (its a theory) or my TB is bad (although from my research it will run but will be in limp mode or wont rev past 2k)
Any help/ideas/theories would be appreciated
Oneball
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If you’ve got fuel and spark and it’s not firing at all then the throttle body isn’t opening.
Even if the timing is completely wrong and an engine is going backwards; if it’s got fuel and air and a spark it’ll make a bang. It might not run but it’ll go pop. So if it’s not doing that it’s missing one of the three things.
Even if the timing is completely wrong and an engine is going backwards; if it’s got fuel and air and a spark it’ll make a bang. It might not run but it’ll go pop. So if it’s not doing that it’s missing one of the three things.
Spitfire980
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Thats whats driving me crazy, if its been left for a period of time, it will either run for 1-2 seconds then die or sound like its about to start...If I keep trying, then it will just crank with no hope of it starting
40L of new fuel
Spitfire980
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That is what is happening, the fuel pressure drops after a crank attempt, I don't feel its the same pressure as when you crank the engine...ill do that and report back
Thanks
Spitfire980
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ITS ALIVE!!
So, I gave up....I tried everything and reached my limit from a mechanical and technical point and she wouldn't start
Called my friend who owns a 2000 Quattroporte 2.8, he advised me to send it to a mutual friends shop in Dubai to diagnose the issue, loaded her up on the tow truck with every possible spare parts/tools I used.
Upon reaching there, she did the same thing, fired up and died a second later, he immediately diagnosed it to incorrect timing and I was adamant I followed the timing instructions from the manual to the word. He put a tissue on the TB while his assistant cranked, the tissue was pushed away rather than being sucked in confirming his quick diagnoses.
Gave him the car and the manual on a USB and let him work his magic, The shops around his have some great cars too
https://youtube.com/shorts/nD1ygDSM2y0?feature=share
So here is what I did wrong, according to him, I followed the manual to the word but what the manual doesn't state is that the exhaust/intake on P side is intake/exhaust on the D side. What I did is time it exhaust/intake P side and exhaust/intake D side instead of flipping it around
My timing on D side was perfect but P side was opposite. When visually seeing the cam lobes compared to TDC, it was opposite. long story short, ITS ALIVE
https://youtube.com/shorts/gO_D3TQH3es?feature=share
Next up is the exterior and interior, Iv arranged with a detailing shop to use my car for their marketing and social media pages for before/after pictures & videos for a stupid cheap price (basically his cost price)
They will try to salvage as much as possible of the original paint where possible and smart paint the areas where its not possible. As for the interior, the 4 seats will be resprayed while the door cards/ dashboard/rear parcel shelf will get new leather. The wheels will be refurbed and calipers painted
In other news, Iv recently started a 3D business scanning/reengineering and industrial level 3D printing items for all my cars that are NLA parts, Iv given them my hood vents and been quoted $250 per piece. If anybody is interested, please let me know so I can push the price down on a bigger order
Iv also been informed that the front cam cover would be a requested piece and ill look into into feasibility, any other parts you would like to be 3D printed?
So, I gave up....I tried everything and reached my limit from a mechanical and technical point and she wouldn't start
Called my friend who owns a 2000 Quattroporte 2.8, he advised me to send it to a mutual friends shop in Dubai to diagnose the issue, loaded her up on the tow truck with every possible spare parts/tools I used.
Upon reaching there, she did the same thing, fired up and died a second later, he immediately diagnosed it to incorrect timing and I was adamant I followed the timing instructions from the manual to the word. He put a tissue on the TB while his assistant cranked, the tissue was pushed away rather than being sucked in confirming his quick diagnoses.
Gave him the car and the manual on a USB and let him work his magic, The shops around his have some great cars too
https://youtube.com/shorts/nD1ygDSM2y0?feature=share
So here is what I did wrong, according to him, I followed the manual to the word but what the manual doesn't state is that the exhaust/intake on P side is intake/exhaust on the D side. What I did is time it exhaust/intake P side and exhaust/intake D side instead of flipping it around
My timing on D side was perfect but P side was opposite. When visually seeing the cam lobes compared to TDC, it was opposite. long story short, ITS ALIVE
https://youtube.com/shorts/gO_D3TQH3es?feature=share
Next up is the exterior and interior, Iv arranged with a detailing shop to use my car for their marketing and social media pages for before/after pictures & videos for a stupid cheap price (basically his cost price)
They will try to salvage as much as possible of the original paint where possible and smart paint the areas where its not possible. As for the interior, the 4 seats will be resprayed while the door cards/ dashboard/rear parcel shelf will get new leather. The wheels will be refurbed and calipers painted
In other news, Iv recently started a 3D business scanning/reengineering and industrial level 3D printing items for all my cars that are NLA parts, Iv given them my hood vents and been quoted $250 per piece. If anybody is interested, please let me know so I can push the price down on a bigger order
Iv also been informed that the front cam cover would be a requested piece and ill look into into feasibility, any other parts you would like to be 3D printed?
Spitfire980
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- 116
No clue, I found some old pics of the car circa early 2000s while researching the wheels and the bodykit
https://tuning.modena.de
Spitfire980
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- 116
Both my car and the donor have the vents broken, I'm guessing its related to our hot summers making the plastics brittle
My advice and looking back, take lots of pics and zip tie the rear chains to the sprockets so when its reassembly time, its an easy drop in and cut the zip ties so you keep the exhaust to intake relation the same
And
Label the TDC of the crank since nobody at Maserati thought that's important! Even the Americans have TDC labeled on my 69 Chevelle!
Church of Noise
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Excellent progress!
Please keep us posted1
Please keep us posted1
Spitfire980
Member
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- 116
Went to Dubai to pick up the car, upon start up, huge plums of white smoke came out of the exhaust and my heart dropped thinking valve seals aren't right or piston rings but the mechanic assured me its just all the old oil plus the fogger oil I put in cylinder #4 being burned out. After about 10 minutes it cleared and reached operating temp but still with a hint of misfire, loaded her on a flatbed back to Abu Dhabi
https://youtube.com/shorts/NZAWS1LoVf4?feature=share
When arriving at Abu Dhabi, filled up the coolant again since the T-stat opened up after reaching operating temp. Noticed a slight oil drip on P side and smoke coming out and the alternator pulley bearing is on its way out, have to check that out tomorrow
Now, seems somebody has been in the P side footwell fuse box since the metal lid was removed and there is clear evidence of relays/fuses missing (I'm assuming)
If anybody can assist on what's missing and what amp? I'm going to check my donor to see if its the same
Secondly, there is a ground wire and another cut wire leading to this, I'm assuming its for the radio? (also in P side footwell)
Thirdly, this relay keeps clicking while the car is running and is getting really hot, any idea what's it for?
Also, the P side sparkplugs are covered in soot and are burned out (I'm guessing that's why I'm misfiring) since all the coils are firing so another set of NGK PMR8B
Also notice there is no check engine light, seems its not a constant thing
https://youtube.com/shorts/NZAWS1LoVf4?feature=share
When arriving at Abu Dhabi, filled up the coolant again since the T-stat opened up after reaching operating temp. Noticed a slight oil drip on P side and smoke coming out and the alternator pulley bearing is on its way out, have to check that out tomorrow
Now, seems somebody has been in the P side footwell fuse box since the metal lid was removed and there is clear evidence of relays/fuses missing (I'm assuming)
If anybody can assist on what's missing and what amp? I'm going to check my donor to see if its the same
Secondly, there is a ground wire and another cut wire leading to this, I'm assuming its for the radio? (also in P side footwell)
Thirdly, this relay keeps clicking while the car is running and is getting really hot, any idea what's it for?
Also, the P side sparkplugs are covered in soot and are burned out (I'm guessing that's why I'm misfiring) since all the coils are firing so another set of NGK PMR8B
Also notice there is no check engine light, seems its not a constant thing