Rear wheel stuck on

djmhall

Member
Messages
105
As the title says really. Car is on stands, but O/S rear wheel will not come off the disk/hub. Now given up for the day in disgust.

I am sure there must be some obvious method that somebody knows and I will kick myself when I hear it - am I right?

Dom
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,852
The alloy will stick to the steel rim...if it has not been copper greased or on for a while it will take a good kick to get the bugger off.
 

F355GTS

New Member
Messages
43
Common problem on BMW's too, best way is to get a decent piece of wood (6 x 2) stand it vertically on the ground on the inside of the wheel then using a sledgehammer to hit the wood, if you can turn the wheel as you do it and have something soft for the wheel to land on
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
They can get stuck on the collar that surrounds the bearing bolt as per the photograph below.

With all the bolts removed and on a stand (not a jack) put the handbrake on, grab the tyre and try rotating it forwards and backwards. You should start to get a bit of play and then, as Safrane says, give it a kick, but put some cardboard (or some such) down to avoid scratching the wheel.

HBRAKE2.jpg
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,269
I've had to persuade all of mine off first time with the wood and 7lb sledge hammer... copper slip them back on for sure. The technique works well and be sure to cover the ground to catch the wheel!

Alternatively you can 'borrow' a tool from your tyre shop which is baisically a big rubber air bag that you place in the wheel arch and attach to a compressor.... When inflated it pops the wheel off.... Risk is that the inner arch may not be that strong on these cars?
 

djmhall

Member
Messages
105
Thanks everyone - a few options there. I may just start off with lying on my back on the ground and giving it a big kick - and progress from there.

No copper slip in sight on the other wheels ( I am fitting FD springs all round) but there will be by the time I am finished.

Domo
 

Big Chris

New Member
Messages
173
Assuming the car is driveable, put the wheels back on, put it on the deck, re-torque the studs, slacken the studs off a quarter to a half turn then drive the car forward a foot or so and then brake.
The shock will be enough to break the seal between the hub and the wheel. It sounds worse than it is but is the recommended procedure by a number of manufacturers!
 

djmhall

Member
Messages
105
The sledge hammer plus plank of wood did it in the end - thanks for all the tips - I like the slackened off studs idea.

Dom
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,269
Glad that worked Dom; didn't much like the idea of getting under the car and booting... could get awfully messy if you knocked it off the jack!
 

BennyD

Sea Urchin Pate
Messages
15,006
Thanks everyone - a few options there. I may just start off with lying on my back on the ground and giving it a big kick - and progress from there.

No copper slip in sight on the other wheels ( I am fitting FD springs all round) but there will be by the time I am finished.

Domo, is there any chance of doing a tech article with piccys? I am hoping to put GS springs on mine in a few weeks and any info would be good. Regards.
 

Emtee

New Member
Messages
8,446
Domo, is there any chance of doing a tech article with piccys? I am hoping to put GS springs on mine in a few weeks and any info would be good. Regards.

Hi Benny, with the coupe's there's a good chance that most 4200CC are actually running the same springs, dampers and ARB as the GS. Have you looked into the GS / GS Spyder setup compared to yours? You may well already be running GS springs?

A few more details here...

http://www.sportsmaserati.co.uk/showthread.php/4469-2005-4200GT-How-low-should-I-go/page3
 

BennyD

Sea Urchin Pate
Messages
15,006
Hi Miles and thanks, I hadn't picked up on that. I am getting a full geo done in the near future so I will get it set up as per the GS and see how I get on. With the 19" wheels I now have on it should be exactly the same. Could be a cheap fix! Although FD springs may be a stage further, I will wait with interest to see what Domo makes of them.
 

djmhall

Member
Messages
105
Its very much work in progress. This is stage two of my planned evolution of the car. Stage one was a free flow exhaust by Pro-Speed (Charlie) in Cardiff. I went up to Cardiff for the day the Friday before last, so just gettingused to it. Charlie replaced the pre cats, improved the exit from the pre cats, replaced the squashed pipe section with decent diameter (a compromise against road clearance), put in main sports cats and then a pair of resonator silencers and wider bore pipe through to the X section. The result is astonishing in terms of the free reving nature of the car and its natural torque. The car has a natural pick up with minimal throttle that just wasnt there before and it flies. It is no louder than the standard exhaust under normal conditions, but just sounds meatier when pushed. Fringe benefit is that it has had a marked impact on economy. last tank over 18 mpg when I would normaly expect 15 or 16 tops!

I have taken some pics of the FD springs install, so if anyone thinks it would be useful, could put together some sort of DIY guide having just learned all the lessons myself! I will be setting the basic ride hight , tracking etc myself first but will get it checked properly after a few miles and let people know my thoughts if there is interest.

Dom