QPV TPMS repair - success?

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Gammaboy

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A couple of days ago I was doing some digging into tpms module issues (mine won't communicate with the scan tool and throws dash errors), and saw reference to them being hard to repair because of the clear conformal coating on the board, with repair costs being in line with the newly manufactured boards on eBay. So out of curiosity I pulled mine out of the car, popped the board out to look at the coating (which doesn't cover the whole board curiously) and started looking at solder joints. Couldn't spot any issues, but, inspired by the posts about re-capping the steering wheel controls, I wondered about the 3 electrolytic caps on the TPMS board. So I put my multi meter, in capacitance mode, across the terminals on the board. The micro format 2.2uF tested out fine, but the two stubby 47uF caps measured out a bit sus. So I went looking for replacements. Digi-Key didn't have any options that matched the 2.2uF unit, but had a few options for the stubby 47s... I then found a local supplier (RMS Components) who had matches for both, and ordered 2 sets of caps, and a couple of extra sets of the smd caps for steering wheel controls. Today I got the chance to do the re-capping. One of the stubby 47s was clearly no good, after being desoldered it read in the nanofarads. The other 47, and the 2.2 both read ok after being desoldered, but got replaced with new anyway.
This was followed by a shortish test drive.
Well, while my tyre pressures haven't come back yet, the TPMS failure error that came about 5-10 minutes into the drive didn't seem to come back... So possibly a fix? More driving will tell I guess.
I can't help but think that these caps would be longer lived in a standard form factor - although vibration may become an issue and hot snotting them to the board may be required.
 

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Gammaboy said:
A couple of days ago I was doing some digging into tpms module issues (mine won't communicate with the scan tool and throws dash errors), and saw reference to them being hard to repair because of the clear conformal coating on the board, with repair costs being in line with the newly manufactured boards on eBay. So out of curiosity I pulled mine out of the car, popped the board out to look at the coating (which doesn't cover the whole board curiously) and started looking at solder joints. Couldn't spot any issues, but, inspired by the posts about re-capping the steering wheel controls, I wondered about the 3 electrolytic caps on the TPMS board. So I put my multi meter, in capacitance mode, across the terminals on the board. The micro format 2.2uF tested out fine, but the two stubby 47uF caps measured out a bit sus. So I went looking for replacements. Digi-Key didn't have any options that matched the 2.2uF unit, but had a few options for the stubby 47s... I then found a local supplier (RMS Components) who had matches for both, and ordered 2 sets of caps, and a couple of extra sets of the smd caps for steering wheel controls. Today I got the chance to do the re-capping. One of the stubby 47s was clearly no good, after being desoldered it read in the nanofarads. The other 47, and the 2.2 both read ok after being desoldered, but got replaced with new anyway.
This was followed by a shortish test drive.
Well, while my tyre pressures haven't come back yet, the TPMS failure error that came about 5-10 minutes into the drive didn't seem to come back... So possibly a fix? More driving will tell I guess.
I can't help but think that these caps would be longer lived in a standard form factor - although vibration may become an issue and hot snotting them to the board may be required.
Click to expand...
I had my TPMS ECU professionally repaired but still the system didn't work, ended up having to replace all the wheel sensors, now it all works as it should :)
 
Gammaboy said:
A couple of days ago I was doing some digging into tpms module issues (mine won't communicate with the scan tool and throws dash errors), and saw reference to them being hard to repair because of the clear conformal coating on the board, with repair costs being in line with the newly manufactured boards on eBay. So out of curiosity I pulled mine out of the car, popped the board out to look at the coating (which doesn't cover the whole board curiously) and started looking at solder joints. Couldn't spot any issues, but, inspired by the posts about re-capping the steering wheel controls, I wondered about the 3 electrolytic caps on the TPMS board. So I put my multi meter, in capacitance mode, across the terminals on the board. The micro format 2.2uF tested out fine, but the two stubby 47uF caps measured out a bit sus. So I went looking for replacements. Digi-Key didn't have any options that matched the 2.2uF unit, but had a few options for the stubby 47s... I then found a local supplier (RMS Components) who had matches for both, and ordered 2 sets of caps, and a couple of extra sets of the smd caps for steering wheel controls. Today I got the chance to do the re-capping. One of the stubby 47s was clearly no good, after being desoldered it read in the nanofarads. The other 47, and the 2.2 both read ok after being desoldered, but got replaced with new anyway.
This was followed by a shortish test drive.
Well, while my tyre pressures haven't come back yet, the TPMS failure error that came about 5-10 minutes into the drive didn't seem to come back... So possibly a fix? More driving will tell I guess.
I can't help but think that these caps would be longer lived in a standard form factor - although vibration may become an issue and hot snotting them to the board may be required.
Click to expand...
Good effort. I love seeing this type of repair. Its above my current knowledge...but that grows with posts like these as does my confidence to start to think about a similar thought process for diagnosis and then repair
 
Update, the error at startup is gone, the one that comes later does come back. Next step is see if the scan tool will read it I guess.
 
smug1uk said:
J'ai fait réparer mon calculateur TPMS par un professionnel, mais le système ne fonctionnait toujours pas. J'ai finalement dû remplacer tous les capteurs de roue ; maintenant, tout fonctionne correctement. :)
Click to expand...
Et tout est rentré dans l ordre !
 
Hello je recherche le module de surveillance des pneus en Ref beru 235303 ou Ferrari 235303 .
Dans mon grancabrio 2011 j ai le branchement dans la trappe sous le siege conducteur .. après avoir remplacé les TPMS vérification absence de ce module …. Étrange
 
Gammaboy said:
Il y a quelques jours, je me suis penché sur les problèmes de module TPMS (le mien ne communique pas avec l'outil de diagnostic et affiche des erreurs au tableau de bord). J'ai vu des références à sa difficulté de réparation due au vernis transparent qui recouvre la carte, et au coût des réparations comparable à celui des cartes neuves vendues sur eBay. Par curiosité, j'ai donc sorti le mien de la voiture, retiré la carte pour examiner le vernis (qui, curieusement, ne la recouvre pas entièrement) et inspecté les soudures. Je n'ai rien trouvé d'anormal, mais, inspiré par les messages concernant le remplacement des condensateurs des commandes au volant, je me suis interrogé sur les trois condensateurs électrolytiques de la carte TPMS. J'ai donc testé la capacité des bornes avec mon multimètre, en mode capacimètre. Le condensateur micro 2,2 µF était bon, mais les deux petits condensateurs 47 µF semblaient présenter des valeurs suspectes. Je me suis donc mis en quête de pièces de rechange. Digi-Key ne proposait aucune option correspondant au condensateur de 2,2 µF, mais avait quelques références pour les condensateurs courts de 47 µF. J'ai alors trouvé un fournisseur local (RMS Components) qui disposait des condensateurs compatibles et j'ai commandé deux jeux de condensateurs, ainsi que quelques jeux supplémentaires de condensateurs CMS pour les commandes au volant. J'ai pu effectuer le remplacement aujourd'hui. L'un des condensateurs courts de 47 µF était manifestement défectueux : après dessoudage, sa capacité était de l'ordre du nanofarad. L'autre condensateur de 47 µF, ainsi que celui de 2,2 µF, affichaient une capacité correcte après dessoudage, mais je les ai tout de même remplacés.
S'en est suivi un essai routier assez court.
Bon, même si la pression de mes pneus n'est pas encore revenue, le message d'erreur du système TPMS qui est apparu 5 à 10 minutes après le départ ne semble pas être réapparu… Il y a donc peut-être une solution ? On verra bien après avoir roulé davantage.
Je ne peux m'empêcher de penser que ces condensateurs auraient une durée de vie plus longue dans un format standard, même si les vibrations pourraient poser problème et qu'il pourrait être nécessaire de les souder à chaud sur la carte.
Click to expand...
 
I replaced 3 capacitors, 2 are 47uF and one is 2.2uf.
I do not believe the repair fixed my issue, it may simply be the wheel sensors. My ThinkDiag diagnostic tool will not even detect the TPMS, however that may be a limitation of the unit.
 
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