My winter project

[CatmanV2]

If its a GS it is the vacuum that closes them.

If they are moving either
Split in the lines
Failed solenoid valves
Blown fuse
Something else

C

 

[spkennyuk]

All back together, took her for a quick test this morning, changing gear as it should so guess all is good, new motor is much faster than old one, so guess it was all worth while. One problem which has surfaced is that the exhaust valves are permanently open, checked linkage to each one, and all moves as it should, sport button seems to make gear changes faster, and stiffens suspension, but has no effect on exhaust flaps, any ideas?

Check the hose to the exhaust is pulling a vacuum. If it isnt then follow it back to the solenoid and check that the solenoid is working. Its under a panel under the rear of the car IIRC not expensive to replace if it is fubar.

 

[jasst]

Ok, so I have accessed the solenoid, with ignition on and sport button pressed there doesn't appear to be any power going to either of the wires going to the solenoid, I have studied the fuse diagram in the owners manual, but cannot see any mention of a circuit that mentions this. Any ideas?

 

[CatmanV2]

Ok, so I have accessed the solenoid, with ignition on and sport button pressed there doesn't appear to be any power going to either of the wires going to the solenoid, I have studied the fuse diagram in the owners manual, but cannot see any mention of a circuit that mentions this. Any ideas?

I'm not sure there will be until you start revving.... The extent of the opening of the valves is (I understand) controlled by the ECU by modifying the 12v to the solenoid.

Get yourself one of these nifty little things

Auto Probe 6-24V | PP1| 1 Year Guarantee | Sealey

A brilliant tool for the auto electrician and mechanic. Fitted with 4.8m cable allowing access to the rear of the vehicle and supplied with instructions.

www.sealey.co.uk

You will be able to test for ground and then apply 12v to the other side and see if you can get the valves to open (obvs with the engine running)

But this is me

C

 

[jasst]

I have spent the day investigating this problem and come to the following conclusions

1. The solenoid is functional
2. there is vacuum to the solenoid
3. if you put 12v to the solenoid the valves close as they should

So the problem is that there is no electric getting to the solenoid, I have checked every fuse in the car and can find no problems, if you press the sport button the light on the dash illuminates and the suspension settings change, as does the speed of gear shifts. I have also done a continuity test on the section of wiring from the solenoid as far as I sensibly could into the boot of the car, and that was fine, so it boils down to 'Fuc**d if I know' any ideas Gentlemen?

 

[philw696]

The joys of auto electrical problems very time consuming and frustrating at times.

 

[midlifecrisis]

I have spent the day investigating this problem and come to the following conclusions

1. The solenoid is functional
2. there is vacuum to the solenoid
3. if you put 12v to the solenoid the valves close as they should

So the problem is that there is no electric getting to the solenoid, I have checked every fuse in the car and can find no problems, if you press the sport button the light on the dash illuminates and the suspension settings change, as does the speed of gear shifts. I have also done a continuity test on the section of wiring from the solenoid as far as I sensibly could into the boot of the car, and that was fine, so it boils down to 'Fuc**d if I know' any ideas Gentlemen?

Do you have a multimeter? Test each wire for 12V or if any are zero resistance to ground.

 

[jasst]

Tested each wire for 12v and nothing from either with sport on, sport off etc,

 

[midlifecrisis]

Tested each wire for 12v and nothing from either with sport on, sport off etc,

Test each wire to ground, I reckon one is short to the chassis.

 

[jasst]

Now automotive electrics are not my strong point, so forgive if I have got this wrong, there are 2 wires going to the solenoid, presumably one is an earth? and the other a live?

 

[CatmanV2]

Now automotive electrics are not my strong point, so forgive if I have got this wrong, there are 2 wires going to the solenoid, presumably one is an earth? and the other a live?

Should be

<runs for cover>

C

 

[midlifecrisis]

Now automotive electrics are not my strong point, so forgive if I have got this wrong, there are 2 wires going to the solenoid, presumably one is an earth? and the other a live?

Yes, one is ground or chassis or the negative. The other should have +12v when requested by a switch. Or vice versa... depends on which side of the solenoid they installed the switch.

 

[Zep]

The annoying part is that there are no wiring diagrams. I suspect, but don’t know, that there is a relay that is energised by the output from the ECU. I’d expect that relay to be the culprit, or a broken wire. You’ll have to follow the wire from the solenoid as far back as you can.

 

[CatmanV2]

The annoying part is that there are no wiring diagrams. I suspect, but don’t know, that there is a relay that is energised by the output from the ECU. I’d expect that relay to be the culprit, or a broken wire. You’ll have to follow the wire from the solenoid as far back as you can.

Have to agree. The concept of the ECU failing in just (and only) that specific manner seems so far off piste....

C

 

[jasst]

I definitely didn't get 12v from either of the wires, and I am sure I couldn't get continuity between ground and either of the wires either. I did wonder about a relay, but couldn't see anything in the book giving me a clue as to which it might be.

 

[jasst]

Ok, a bit of an update, the non opening valves problem is sorted, I unplugged all relays in the boot, and plugged them back in and hey presto, it started working, so guess I may have nudged something when removing the battery. Now going back to an earlier problem of eml light coming on after a short time, it was cured by putting the standard cats back on, well a set of larini sports cats came up on ebay, and just happened to turn up on my doorstep! so these were duly fitted, and I hoped they would not throw up the same problem being a reputable make, but low and behold the dreaded eml came on on Thursday but this time we only have one fault code
So my question is, which is bank 2? As it is showing fault only on one bank it may be lambda related as I used the ones that came with the larini's, but I need to know which side to replace.
As an aside on Thursday she took star place as my youngest daughters wedding car at her insistence!

 

[Zep]

Cylinders 1,2,3 & 4 are the right bank (looking from the drivers seat, so I’d bet a fair amount on the left bank being bank 2. So passenger side.

 

[Gp79]

Ok, a bit of an update, the non opening valves problem is sorted, I unplugged all relays in the boot, and plugged them back in and hey presto, it started working, so guess I may have nudged something when removing the battery. Now going back to an earlier problem of eml light coming on after a short time, it was cured by putting the standard cats back on, well a set of larini sports cats came up on ebay, and just happened to turn up on my doorstep! so these were duly fitted, and I hoped they would not throw up the same problem being a reputable make, but low and behold the dreaded eml came on on Thursday but this time we only have one fault codeView attachment 100470
So my question is, which is bank 2? As it is showing fault only on one bank it may be lambda related as I used the ones that came with the larini's, but I need to know which side to replace.
As an aside on Thursday she took star place as my youngest daughters wedding car at her insistence!

Nice work so far.

Unplug the O2 sensor you think is playing up and re-scan, at least it will confirm if you're on the correct bank.

Also there are also Bosch O2 sensors available without the Maz tax, hopefully just that not the cat or secondary air system?