Level light on then lost all gears

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
That’s right above the drive shaft as well. On the other photo it is just visible behind handbrake cable

Thanks. Well I've tried to locate the leak but unsuccessful so far. It squirts out fast and fine, so is hard to see. I'll try to set up some video cameras to catch it. I'm pretty sure that one of the lines has been rubbing against the axle joint, as they haven't been held out of the way. I just have to locate the guilty one and then get a replacement to swap it out. I see them on Ebay in Germany for 150 Euro plus shipping which looks okay. Does anyone know what sort of washers they use to seal the joints? Are they aluminium crush type, copper or maybe even dowty seals?

Any bright ideas on locating the guilty one would help as well.

Cheers

Graeme
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
Thanks. Well I've tried to locate the leak but unsuccessful so far. It squirts out fast and fine, so is hard to see. I'll try to set up some video cameras to catch it. I'm pretty sure that one of the lines has been rubbing against the axle joint, as they haven't been held out of the way. I just have to locate the guilty one and then get a replacement to swap it out. I see them on Ebay in Germany for 150 Euro plus shipping which looks okay. Does anyone know what sort of washers they use to seal the joints? Are they aluminium crush type, copper or maybe even dowty seals?

Any bright ideas on locating the guilty one would help as well.

Cheers

Graeme

I’m pretty sure there just copper washers, so re annealing would be fine.

To change the pipe or even find the leak I’d probably look to drop the gearbox as there is not much access.
It isn’t as big a job as it sounds.
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Well I took a video and I've established which line is leaking:

The leak

Got a good dose of fluid over the camera but thankfully it was a $5 one :^). Just have to identify the line and buy a replacement.

So what's involved in dropping the transmission Gp79?

Cheers

Graeme
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
Well I took a video and I've established which line is leaking:

The leak

Got a good dose of fluid over the camera but thankfully it was a $5 one :^). Just have to identify the line and buy a replacement.

So what's involved in dropping the transmission Gp79?

Cheers

Graeme

That is quite a leak there.

Have a look at Craig’s Waterman’s website, for gearbox removal as it’s part of the clutch job.
It’s really useful and also explains a lot about the F1 system.


Good luck, cheers Greg
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Hi Greg

Thanks for that. I had a look through that link and it's pretty major.

I've established that it's the EV3 pipe, which looks like I may be able to get to it in situ if I get the car a bit higher off the ground. If I remove the boot heat shield it should give me clearance to get to the power unit where the EV3 pipe connects. Any thoughts on that.

I can get the pipe off a wrecker in Germany.

Thanks so much for the photos you've sent.

Cheers

Graeme
 

atreyu1

Member
Messages
183
If you're thinking of removing the heat shield then why not remove the boot floor as well. It's not a big job and if you do that then you will have easy access to all the pipework and electrical connections on the back of the gearbox.
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Hi Greg

Well I took out the boot floor which gives great access to the valve end of the EV1 pipe which is the problem, but I can't get a socket on the gearbox part of it so it looks like the gearbox needs to be lowered 6 inches or so. Do you know if I have to go through the entire gearbox removal to do that?

Cheers

Graeme
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
Yes it is very tight at the actuator end, I’m not 100% sure as I dropped the whole subframe on mine. But to lower it you would still have to slide the box back from the torque tube (drive shafts disconnected) a good bit to clear the subframe that the box sits above.
If it were me I’d go to drop the complete box to save frustration

56955
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Hi Greg

How you've got it there does look like the best solution. I've got a motorbike lift that could substitute for the jack you've used and I see you can leave the half shafts alone. I might have to bite the bullet and do that. Thanks.
 

spannerslave

New Member
Messages
2
Greetings team, Graeme's son Steven here, he's had me crawling under this thing and we're ready to pull the transmission out. Just stumped on this last two wire connector though, don't want to break it but can't figure how it comes out, any advice?

Also, is the square box on the bottom of the transmission sturdy enough to take the weight of the transmission?


57888
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
Slid
Greetings team, Graeme's son Steven here, he's had me crawling under this thing and we're ready to pull the transmission out. Just stumped on this last two wire connector though, don't want to break it but can't figure how it comes out, any advice?

Also, is the square box on the bottom of the transmission sturdy enough to take the weight of the transmission?


View attachment 57888
Slide the grey piece out of the connector then you can press the clip in to disconnect.

The square box can take the weight no probs
 

Karl GS

Junior Member
Messages
21
Hi Graeme. I topped up mine with Penrite LDAS 12 months ago and no problems. Its a replacement for Pentosin CHF 11s as specified.
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Thanks for the heads up on the clip Greg.

We dropped the transmission down and I was able to replace the EV1 pipe. The old one didn't look damaged, until you unrolled the plastic cover and then impact damage can be plainly seen where the pipe has hit the left hand half shaft coupling - hence the leak. All because it wasn't held up out of the way.

Just have to reassemble now. I saw somewhere that there's a bleed screw for the valve block so will need to bleed it I presume. Also some gearbox oil leaked out when the cooler was removed so need to find where you top that up as well.

Thanks for the help.

Graeme
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
No worries

Have a look on Craigwatermans website:


There are bleed screws on the back of the actuator that will get the air out of the new pipe.

57918
 

spannerslave

New Member
Messages
2
So the transmission is almost back in however it seems to be stuck at the very last inch. Thinking now we should really check that the torque tube is engaged into the transmission by connecting it all up, putting it into gear and turning the axles... or would it just self align? Can't really figure out why it won't go any further.
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
Even in neutral turning the drive shafts will turn the input shaft on the gearbox to help engage fully in the torque tube.