JT's 2001 Maserati 3200GT Rebuild! Story, Parts and Advice
- Thread starter JTop
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- 3200gt maserati fire parts rebuild
JTop
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Glad you're enjoying!Keep the posts coming as for myself a Motor Vehicle Technician for well over 40 years I'm Loving this
Will do some tonight and more on Sunday.
Busy week, 8:30am to super late. Just happy to bring something of interest back to the boring web lol.
Also linking to my other post regarding F1 gearboxes on the Ferrari forum(I thought they'd know better lol).
If people are interested: F1 Gearbox. No Stall. No Clutch Engagement
F1 Gearbox - No Stall. No Clutch engagement
hello! I've been attempting to diagnose a faulty f1 system. It's doing my head in. I've read all the technical documents. Played with the system over...
www.ferrarichat.com
Back to the collage. Just photos on photos of bits that I've been saving.
So much hardware that was coated in pure fire retardant(and water) simply oxidising and impossible to clean and remove.
Must be sand blasted or acid tanked and then yellow zinc plated again.
At the end there is the harness. I believe I sat multiple days in a row(from other scattered wire pinout photos) just refinishing each section and de-pinning and installing new rubber boots on each connector end. TE connectivity AMP Superseal connectors. You can buy flexy body style like the original ones for all but the 2x pin ones.
Aux brackets all installed. Don't mind the mess. Was in a rush getting it all finished!
A rush but also trying to remember/figure out what goes where because it was over a year since I had done much work to this motor.
New exhaust gaskets on and ready to install the manifolds.
I installed the exhaust manifolds before I got the turbos back and spent too much time looking at the camboxes. Was not happy about the exterior finish.
Too much variation between the two and the fact I'm this far in, better do it once; and do it right.
So, I had taken them down to Greg at Woodies Hydroblast and had him get the exteriors blasted perfect.
I had been waiting on the turbos to be finally refurbished. So I rebuilt the AC pump and Alternator in the meanwhile. Cleaning them up from the dust.
More on Sunday. I'm finished for today...
JTop
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Today's been an awfully short day with daylight savings going forward an hour. But also a weird day. Anyway
AC. Dismantling the clutch was a headscratcher, until I realised the three center holes are available to get a hook/puller tool to remove it.
OR
3x long bolts which mustn't have a tapered end as they can damage the green bearing seal. Gently tighten these bolts; alternating half turn rotation on each.
*Just looking at this last pic. Looks like my pulley is dented? Mmm, I have the engine out at the minute. May replace with another one. But first sandblast and black zinc plate.. Didn't see!
I also sorted the steering rack as it wasn't in the best shape. Had loads of drama trying to remove the tie rod ends. But managed to do so in the end.
Never expected them to adhere like they're welded together with the hub. *they're all like that now that I've worked on a bunch more.
980001707 - $200AUD from Eurospares for the original TRW pair.
Not really worth the money in my opinion... Just to protect the tie joint from debris, no other purpose.
FIN. Tie ends back on after that and DO NOT REINSTALL IF ENGINE IS NOT INSTALLED YET. Don't ask me how I know...
Edit* Attempted to perform next post. Server isn't letting me upload anything. SO have to leave it for tonight.
** Should be back tomorrow night and try the lot this week. One post each evening. ** If I'm not here. Long 14-16hr work day. **
AC. Dismantling the clutch was a headscratcher, until I realised the three center holes are available to get a hook/puller tool to remove it.
OR
3x long bolts which mustn't have a tapered end as they can damage the green bearing seal. Gently tighten these bolts; alternating half turn rotation on each.
*Just looking at this last pic. Looks like my pulley is dented? Mmm, I have the engine out at the minute. May replace with another one. But first sandblast and black zinc plate.. Didn't see!
I also sorted the steering rack as it wasn't in the best shape. Had loads of drama trying to remove the tie rod ends. But managed to do so in the end.
Never expected them to adhere like they're welded together with the hub. *they're all like that now that I've worked on a bunch more.
980001707 - $200AUD from Eurospares for the original TRW pair.
Not really worth the money in my opinion... Just to protect the tie joint from debris, no other purpose.
FIN. Tie ends back on after that and DO NOT REINSTALL IF ENGINE IS NOT INSTALLED YET. Don't ask me how I know...
Edit* Attempted to perform next post. Server isn't letting me upload anything. SO have to leave it for tonight.
** Should be back tomorrow night and try the lot this week. One post each evening. ** If I'm not here. Long 14-16hr work day. **
Last edited:
JTop
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I've substituted with Renault Duster/Dacia Duster ones in recent times as these are mostly identical spec wise. $24AUD for a pair + shipping. TRW #JBE230 / JBE220
Just looked again, I did have in my written notes TRW #JBE221. They are $56AUD for a pair. +shipping
JTop
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This is the 3rd night in the past few weeks that I've got an opportunity to upload. Now it works completely fine without downsizing images.
I've downed all the file sizes prior and still wouldn't let me upload. Finally does!
In continuation:
I finally sorted the head gaskets. I bought and paid for 2 original Maserati packaged Elring Klinger gaskets but only received the 1…. My dumb luck
Here I then had to chase for another. Which I then received beginning of November.*2022*
But it had not been an original Elring as I had ordered, but a mere replica.
So another two weeks go by as I am waiting for another replica gasket to get these heads on.
In this time, I was waiting on the turbos to be finally refurbished. I got them the weekend prior to having the car accident. I then checked the heads and installed the turbo manifolds. I was not happy about the finish on the camboxes. So, I had taken them down to Greg at Woodies Hydroblast and had him get the exterior done perfectly. *will see in a bit.*
Week later, finally got the turbos back, and not how I originally anticipated... With reference; the weekend prior to having the car accident. So everything was ready to bolt on.
And thoroughly cleaned all of the glass bead media out... People call themselves professionals like how...
I've downed all the file sizes prior and still wouldn't let me upload. Finally does!
In continuation:
I finally sorted the head gaskets. I bought and paid for 2 original Maserati packaged Elring Klinger gaskets but only received the 1…. My dumb luck
Here I then had to chase for another. Which I then received beginning of November.*2022*
But it had not been an original Elring as I had ordered, but a mere replica.
So another two weeks go by as I am waiting for another replica gasket to get these heads on.
In this time, I was waiting on the turbos to be finally refurbished. I got them the weekend prior to having the car accident. I then checked the heads and installed the turbo manifolds. I was not happy about the finish on the camboxes. So, I had taken them down to Greg at Woodies Hydroblast and had him get the exterior done perfectly. *will see in a bit.*
Week later, finally got the turbos back, and not how I originally anticipated... With reference; the weekend prior to having the car accident. So everything was ready to bolt on.
And thoroughly cleaned all of the glass bead media out... People call themselves professionals like how...
JTop
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- Messages
- 90
This part is the most satisfying. Finally. Cylinder head gaskets, Cyl Heads - Turbos back on!
Headgaskets on the block. Valvetrains on top. Washers and nuts back to their respective studs. Torqued to sequence and 49.0-68.6-88.2nm specification.
Here I was waiting for the camboxes to come back from Greg.
Headgaskets on the block. Valvetrains on top. Washers and nuts back to their respective studs. Torqued to sequence and 49.0-68.6-88.2nm specification.
Here I was waiting for the camboxes to come back from Greg.
JTop
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- 90
These were the originals. Can still get them as still used on newer italian vehicles but must have tool to engage them properly. I ended up going with constant tension Murray clamps.
So, all week I was cleaning and redoing the main engine wiring harness, putting new rubber boots on all the connectors; so depinning. Cleaning the connector and putting it all back together(with correct pinout).
Got the camboxes Friday morning and Saturday; they were on. With all gaskets and exactly how the manual explained with combining them. I feel like I should have put gasket sealant around the entire outer perimeter. We will see. *YES. ENTIRE OUTER PERIMETER, DO NOT LEAVE GAPS* don't ask how I know... Inside is just grease so it holds the O-Ring in place when installing.
Remember to install this little O-Ring on both. Otherwise no oil pressure to camboxes. And you will CRY!
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JTop
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Lifters in. Cams on, with caps bolted on in sequence.
Here I made the mistake when dismantling for not capturing the exact positions of cams to the cam gears. Punching the spot on the face of both.
Front covers then on. Here I made a critical mistake. I will get to it later. But if you are following, disregard what the manual states. PUT the same rocker cover Loctite SEALANT on the ENTIRE PERIMETER of the gasket, but not too much for it to overflow into the cambox, which must be cleaned. Same goes with the rear cover once the timing is done. Yes, my next nightmare...
*Was supposed to be post transition, lol*
I don’t really know what I wanted to turn this forum post into, a tutorial. A “How To” guide. My personal blog about the car or what? It just sort of came as it went, for I gained an unprecedented amount of knowledge along the way, mainly from talking to others, of which was not available anywhere on the internet. A trade secret if I were to shut my mouth, but I feel like it is good for the ones that were before me, as well as after me. Given it confirms from the old and teaches the new. If I do miss something, please feel free to comment. I will edit it in.
*turned into a, whatever this ******* achieves*
Where do I even start the timing… I did not understand what I was originally supposed to be measuring.
The one tiny photo in the manual showed a tool, that I could not find anywhere. A custom solution was required.
*DO NOT COPY THIS. IT IS WRONG ALL THE WAY TO SPACE*
My original understanding was that the cam lobes of cylinders 1&8 should be at a certain height at a certain point in time. NOPE. I made this plate originally.
From here on, you must disconnect the rear chains if this is not done already. Once the cams are bolted down, must remove the rear sprockets to get the chain on and off. I marked all these before doing so, trying to get the same copper nail position.
Putting the belt on is simple, but annoying enough, especially if not shimmed correctly. You install it from the crankshaft gear, going anticlockwise, having all cam gears at TDC and finally lifting it over the tensioner bearing. Once done, lift the tensioner up and bolt it down, before pulling the pin, hoping that it doesn’t move, as the tensioner pin hole should stay in its position. *according to the manual. They all push slightly out and go off center and this is OK*
Turning the motor over 2-3 times and checking that TDC is achieved on all gears, and that the tensioner can have the pin reinserted. If it can’t be, need to add the appropriate shim and restart the entire process, a vice is crucial for resetting the tensioner. Did I mention that the tensioner is the same as the Mitsubishi 3000GT? Yeah, you can buy the OE Gates one for $180AUD. Cheap insurance; they are identical.
Once the exhaust cams are moving, I started trying to get them into specification. Plate on and testing, yet it didn’t seem to be happening. I looked closer to the photo in the manual and finally noticed the angle the dial gauges were seated at. Therefore, it has to press on the hydraulic lifter(little gap), to measure the valve opening! This made sense, but how am I to now make something that works.
Here I made the mistake when dismantling for not capturing the exact positions of cams to the cam gears. Punching the spot on the face of both.
Front covers then on. Here I made a critical mistake. I will get to it later. But if you are following, disregard what the manual states. PUT the same rocker cover Loctite SEALANT on the ENTIRE PERIMETER of the gasket, but not too much for it to overflow into the cambox, which must be cleaned. Same goes with the rear cover once the timing is done. Yes, my next nightmare...
*Was supposed to be post transition, lol*
I don’t really know what I wanted to turn this forum post into, a tutorial. A “How To” guide. My personal blog about the car or what? It just sort of came as it went, for I gained an unprecedented amount of knowledge along the way, mainly from talking to others, of which was not available anywhere on the internet. A trade secret if I were to shut my mouth, but I feel like it is good for the ones that were before me, as well as after me. Given it confirms from the old and teaches the new. If I do miss something, please feel free to comment. I will edit it in.
*turned into a, whatever this ******* achieves*
Where do I even start the timing… I did not understand what I was originally supposed to be measuring.
The one tiny photo in the manual showed a tool, that I could not find anywhere. A custom solution was required.
*DO NOT COPY THIS. IT IS WRONG ALL THE WAY TO SPACE*
My original understanding was that the cam lobes of cylinders 1&8 should be at a certain height at a certain point in time. NOPE. I made this plate originally.
From here on, you must disconnect the rear chains if this is not done already. Once the cams are bolted down, must remove the rear sprockets to get the chain on and off. I marked all these before doing so, trying to get the same copper nail position.
Putting the belt on is simple, but annoying enough, especially if not shimmed correctly. You install it from the crankshaft gear, going anticlockwise, having all cam gears at TDC and finally lifting it over the tensioner bearing. Once done, lift the tensioner up and bolt it down, before pulling the pin, hoping that it doesn’t move, as the tensioner pin hole should stay in its position. *according to the manual. They all push slightly out and go off center and this is OK*
Turning the motor over 2-3 times and checking that TDC is achieved on all gears, and that the tensioner can have the pin reinserted. If it can’t be, need to add the appropriate shim and restart the entire process, a vice is crucial for resetting the tensioner. Did I mention that the tensioner is the same as the Mitsubishi 3000GT? Yeah, you can buy the OE Gates one for $180AUD. Cheap insurance; they are identical.
Once the exhaust cams are moving, I started trying to get them into specification. Plate on and testing, yet it didn’t seem to be happening. I looked closer to the photo in the manual and finally noticed the angle the dial gauges were seated at. Therefore, it has to press on the hydraulic lifter(little gap), to measure the valve opening! This made sense, but how am I to now make something that works.
JTop
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- 90
I did not have much time as weeks were passing by. This was middle of December already. I bent a thin DIN rail and created a large enough bolt to offset the height. Secured the dial gauges on both ends and created a thin point tip from m2.5 all thread, grinding down the tip to smooth the rough edges but still allowing it to screw directly onto the end of each gauge.
Conveniently it worked. I think? I was able to adjust the timing for how it was specified in the book. But I was not certain it was good. No valve collisions, so I called it my Sunday at 3am and off to work the next day.
*This is what it should look like. Not anything I showed before. I will continue the series another evening in the short future!
I want to be up to today's events before Christmas*
Conveniently it worked. I think? I was able to adjust the timing for how it was specified in the book. But I was not certain it was good. No valve collisions, so I called it my Sunday at 3am and off to work the next day.
*This is what it should look like. Not anything I showed before. I will continue the series another evening in the short future!
I want to be up to today's events before Christmas*
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CatmanV2
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zagatoes30
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It takes me ages just to do a job never mind taking photos all along the way.
Well done
Well done
JTop
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- 90
Every single time I open this page. I procrastinate mentally. Thinking; this will take a few hours to do.
And then flip it back. 5 mins and done. What else is there to do on a Saturday evening when you're exhausted.
Partial rest day for me since I haven't had a break all November-December and into the start of this year.
Well. This week had multiple 40° days and they were partial throwaways. End up working late late to catch-up.
-> In continuation of 2022->December
Monday night, straight away had the cam covers on and sparkplugs installed(so no debris fall in, to not have to cover the motor up); and to begin the easy part of the entire journey.
Saturday had received all zinc plated hardware the day prior, ready to install the rest of the parts to the motor. Timing covers and also the PCV box. Running the electrical cables down the front of the motor and vacuum lines for boost and wastegate.
Here I made a critical error without realising. !!!
Because I did not read the manual correctly. I went through it twice; yet only the third time did it make sense for me.
I had plumbed up the wastegate control valve wrong. Using the intake manifold as a top port connection, not realising it has to go to atmosphere!
And then I had the two diverter valves connected to that valve, thinking that this valve controls both(don’t remember, but it was a mistake here somehow). A stupid thing to know, but it makes sense for the type of valve that was made at the time.
Diverter valves go directly to the back of the inlet manifold.
Wastegate goes to rear outlet port of the valve. Wastegate source from the turbo-inlet pipe! See photo.
Had built up the central waterduct, installing new Roose Motorsport hoses and constant tension clamps, so it will never come apart/leak as it’s just annoying to constantly pull the intake manifold(not anymore. such a quick job once you've done it enough times!).
Here I bolted this down, ready for the intake manifold. Completely forgetting about the starter motor , few spanners later tightened anyway, without having to pull the intake manifold off.
Fun fact! Can get new motors and solenoids for fraction of the price.
Peugeot or literally any single unit that looks similar(but isn't because the alu heads are oppositely clocked). Remember. Check ratings. Masa manual and new unit.
Just swap the main aluminium head cover over and voila!
And then flip it back. 5 mins and done. What else is there to do on a Saturday evening when you're exhausted.
Partial rest day for me since I haven't had a break all November-December and into the start of this year.
Well. This week had multiple 40° days and they were partial throwaways. End up working late late to catch-up.
-> In continuation of 2022->December
Monday night, straight away had the cam covers on and sparkplugs installed(so no debris fall in, to not have to cover the motor up); and to begin the easy part of the entire journey.
Saturday had received all zinc plated hardware the day prior, ready to install the rest of the parts to the motor. Timing covers and also the PCV box. Running the electrical cables down the front of the motor and vacuum lines for boost and wastegate.
Here I made a critical error without realising. !!!
Because I did not read the manual correctly. I went through it twice; yet only the third time did it make sense for me.
I had plumbed up the wastegate control valve wrong. Using the intake manifold as a top port connection, not realising it has to go to atmosphere!
And then I had the two diverter valves connected to that valve, thinking that this valve controls both(don’t remember, but it was a mistake here somehow). A stupid thing to know, but it makes sense for the type of valve that was made at the time.
Diverter valves go directly to the back of the inlet manifold.
Wastegate goes to rear outlet port of the valve. Wastegate source from the turbo-inlet pipe! See photo.
Had built up the central waterduct, installing new Roose Motorsport hoses and constant tension clamps, so it will never come apart/leak as it’s just annoying to constantly pull the intake manifold(not anymore. such a quick job once you've done it enough times!).
Here I bolted this down, ready for the intake manifold. Completely forgetting about the starter motor , few spanners later tightened anyway, without having to pull the intake manifold off.
Fun fact! Can get new motors and solenoids for fraction of the price.
Peugeot or literally any single unit that looks similar(but isn't because the alu heads are oppositely clocked). Remember. Check ratings. Masa manual and new unit.
Just swap the main aluminium head cover over and voila!
Last edited:
JTop
Member
- Messages
- 90
Once these bits were all on. I could start running the new wiring harness to all the locations to Tesa tape the harness together. I had already done all the connectors and sorted the rubber boots, so they were all clean, ready to go. Once this was complete, it was Christmas! Few days I was constantly stopped by my dad from working. Yet I slowly disappeared from his perimeter and kept at it.
Throttle body was next, I had to reassemble what I had. Which I had some idea about. Reading the Lamborghini forum for the same throttle body, I had some idea of how I should have it setup, so I had left the two covers off the sides. I later potted the top again, which was a mistake because it seeped into the sides and then locked up the throttle body *facepalm*. So, I had to pull it all apart again and clean it all up.
Re-done the entire Auxiliary harness too. Had that apart and taped (whilst at work because the boss went on holidays lol)
And there you have my two monstrosities I have built this year(2022). These two motors are what I sunk my heart into, for if I had not built the first VW motor, I don’t think I would have done the Maserati motor properly. It all comes at a cost, but I think this is satisfying
Just before the end of the year, I had to organise the Polo, because I can’t be driving around with a damaged fender, bumper and mismatched headlight everywhere.
We only had a spare car that was T-Boned, in white. The Panda Polo was born xD
New Years! And back to my job, not like I ever left…
Throttle body was next, I had to reassemble what I had. Which I had some idea about. Reading the Lamborghini forum for the same throttle body, I had some idea of how I should have it setup, so I had left the two covers off the sides. I later potted the top again, which was a mistake because it seeped into the sides and then locked up the throttle body *facepalm*. So, I had to pull it all apart again and clean it all up.
Re-done the entire Auxiliary harness too. Had that apart and taped (whilst at work because the boss went on holidays lol)
And there you have my two monstrosities I have built this year(2022). These two motors are what I sunk my heart into, for if I had not built the first VW motor, I don’t think I would have done the Maserati motor properly. It all comes at a cost, but I think this is satisfying
Just before the end of the year, I had to organise the Polo, because I can’t be driving around with a damaged fender, bumper and mismatched headlight everywhere.
We only had a spare car that was T-Boned, in white. The Panda Polo was born xD
New Years! And back to my job, not like I ever left…
JTop
Member
- Messages
- 90
First Friday off, and I had the engine in the air, connected to the crane, ready to prepare for the mating scenario. Gearbox on a fluff about with the throw-out bearing. Was never really happy with it given it was a different design to the Sachs, and I could not find it.
Now I know that I can get a new Sachs disk and throw-out bearing for half the price. -> And optimally the best solution until Plates start being re-manufactured.
By Sunday, the motor was in, the entire family helped guide it down safely, bolted the mounts down and ready. Proper fun trying to squeeze it in as the chassis doesn’t give enough space between itself and the gearbox, so there is not much wiggle room.
Steering rack and swaybar MUST stay OFF, because their clearance spot is tight, and you need the room to move the motor down and into place. Once I had the bolts in, it was a proper relief. Now to get it to turn on to find out if I’ve done everything correctly!
Now I know that I can get a new Sachs disk and throw-out bearing for half the price. -> And optimally the best solution until Plates start being re-manufactured.
By Sunday, the motor was in, the entire family helped guide it down safely, bolted the mounts down and ready. Proper fun trying to squeeze it in as the chassis doesn’t give enough space between itself and the gearbox, so there is not much wiggle room.
Steering rack and swaybar MUST stay OFF, because their clearance spot is tight, and you need the room to move the motor down and into place. Once I had the bolts in, it was a proper relief. Now to get it to turn on to find out if I’ve done everything correctly!
JTop
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- Messages
- 90
Thank you Phil! Albeit years ago. It feels like it was only yesterday. Trying to get this build up to 2026. It's still going... Thought I'd be done by now!
Final stretch, I was super excited. But also terrified, for if I made a mistake, that would be the end of this journey. For I am not able to buy another motor and rebuilding it would be enough of a pain for me. I could not do another.
Wiring harness connected and installed both sides. Polyurethane to seal the ports and make sure they are waterproof. Just like the original factory installation!
|
One original LHS and RHS bonnet vent courtesy of Hashim - @Spitfire980
Same with the A-Pillar vents!
I found the Alfa version of these clips too. A lot cheaper... 991356 - ROMIX 11152
Now all the accessories. Intercoolers, pipework, all the surrounding figures and parts. I blitzed this entire process; I had all the hardware organised and bagged properly. Just had to figure out which fit where and make sure it’s even all over. The odd fixture that I was missing was to then leave, search all the other bags and make sure it’s not mixed with another.
Oh and I designed and 3D printed new channels too.
The itch began to scratch. I had to turn the key and see if it were to start.
All over the place. Almost every single light on the dash...
The next day. Done a silly thing...
Invited all my friends for the first start! Not knowing if it would or not.
Dad then tells me. Exhaust has to be on, otherwise it’s not starting!!! A pain in the ***, because now I had to get the entire exhaust on, in 20 minutes. More like a hour later, everyone waiting for me to get it on, just to start the motor.
And we started. Attempt 1. Attempt 2. 3. 4. No ignition, no roar. Crank but no start. SO. The next few hours we all tried to get it going. Testing everything. Spark, Yes. Fuel, Yes. Injectors all squirting, Yes. Conclusion. No idea.
Next day, kept attempting, disconnecting sensors, checking the ECU for codes, draining the battery and not getting anywhere. ECU code, immobilizer the only one that stayed on, along with a dash cluster light error. Me questioning why it’s not disabling. And also, how the dash cluster error exists.
Dash cluster error was such an easy mistake to make, when installing there are two single wire cables and obviously, I crossed them over
Taken this apart; reassembled correctly. Done. But the immobilizer code remained; and I’m stumped.
My brother goes; "Didn’t you take the key apart?"
Like yeah, I wanted to copy the key and left the job to Dad for 5 months, where his laziness could not do it for me.
"Did you assemble the key properly?"
Here my head hit the wall. Of course, I did not…
Running upstairs. Searching my key stash for parts and found the little black immobilizer chip.
Immediately installed it into the key and jumped down the entire flight of stairs.
Key in the ignition, fuel primed, electronics on. Ready
And
On.
Running.
Tear in one eye; for I can finish this project.
Thank God
Final stretch, I was super excited. But also terrified, for if I made a mistake, that would be the end of this journey. For I am not able to buy another motor and rebuilding it would be enough of a pain for me. I could not do another.
Wiring harness connected and installed both sides. Polyurethane to seal the ports and make sure they are waterproof. Just like the original factory installation!
|One original LHS and RHS bonnet vent courtesy of Hashim - @Spitfire980
Same with the A-Pillar vents!
I found the Alfa version of these clips too. A lot cheaper... 991356 - ROMIX 11152
Now all the accessories. Intercoolers, pipework, all the surrounding figures and parts. I blitzed this entire process; I had all the hardware organised and bagged properly. Just had to figure out which fit where and make sure it’s even all over. The odd fixture that I was missing was to then leave, search all the other bags and make sure it’s not mixed with another.
Oh and I designed and 3D printed new channels too.
The itch began to scratch. I had to turn the key and see if it were to start.
All over the place. Almost every single light on the dash...
The next day. Done a silly thing...
Invited all my friends for the first start! Not knowing if it would or not.
Dad then tells me. Exhaust has to be on, otherwise it’s not starting!!! A pain in the ***, because now I had to get the entire exhaust on, in 20 minutes. More like a hour later, everyone waiting for me to get it on, just to start the motor.
And we started. Attempt 1. Attempt 2. 3. 4. No ignition, no roar. Crank but no start. SO. The next few hours we all tried to get it going. Testing everything. Spark, Yes. Fuel, Yes. Injectors all squirting, Yes. Conclusion. No idea.
Next day, kept attempting, disconnecting sensors, checking the ECU for codes, draining the battery and not getting anywhere. ECU code, immobilizer the only one that stayed on, along with a dash cluster light error. Me questioning why it’s not disabling. And also, how the dash cluster error exists.
Dash cluster error was such an easy mistake to make, when installing there are two single wire cables and obviously, I crossed them over
Taken this apart; reassembled correctly. Done. But the immobilizer code remained; and I’m stumped.
My brother goes; "Didn’t you take the key apart?"
Like yeah, I wanted to copy the key and left the job to Dad for 5 months, where his laziness could not do it for me.
"Did you assemble the key properly?"
Here my head hit the wall. Of course, I did not…
Running upstairs. Searching my key stash for parts and found the little black immobilizer chip.
Immediately installed it into the key and jumped down the entire flight of stairs.
Key in the ignition, fuel primed, electronics on. Ready
And
On.
Running.
Tear in one eye; for I can finish this project.Thank God
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