Inspection Report

[FIFTY]

Hi everyone

As a few of you know I decided to hand my 4200 over to a specialist for a full inspection + report, a new lambda and fan rheostat.



I won't list out everything that is OK just the snagging items with my own remarks in brackets

Interior Lights - Interior Spotlight not working
Windscreen Washer jets require adjustment
Window Operation - N/S Window knock, O/S Operation Slow - (will Autogaurd warranty cover this? the policy I have does cover the eletric windows but not sure if they have to completely fail first?)
Window Channels - N/S Window hitting top of channel
Cigar Lighter/Ashtray - Maserati Badge Broken
Instruments - Window Switches Scratched
Handbrake - N/S Shoes sticking/binding - (probably my fault after changing the discs I will fix ASAP, I have yellow stuff rear pads to put in anyway!)
Clutch/clearence - Clutch biting point high
Engine oil leaks - See comments
Engine - Engine Light on (fixed with new bank 1 sensor 1 lambda)
Cooling System/Hoses - Level low + Pink Anti Freeze - (What colour should it be? The level is probably low from issues with the fan rheostat)
*No water leaks
Exhaust system - R/H Lambda sensor missing (now replaced)
Seats - N/S/F Lumbar support N/W - (Seat ECU?)
Bumpers - Scratch above N/S tail pipe
Tool kit present - Tyre inflator missing - (had no idea these came with one!)


Remarks and observations
Both seat electric tilt N/W - (Seat ECU reset?)
Boot lid N/S corner touching quarter panel when opened - (guess this just needs some adjustment?)
Both headlights slightly misted - (I have a headlight lens restoration kit which I will crack out again)
According to service book major service was due at 56k annual was carried out at 57,520m - (hint taken will do a major service in January)
Scratch + small dent in boot lid, below number plate
Dent in O/S/F Wing - (Need to call out a dent man for this and a small one on Sara's Scirocco where a van reversed into the boot)
Windscreen scuffed from wiper blade - (No idea how to adjust these but it needs to be done)
O/S door card small tear in leather
Front bumper grille rattle - (I thought this was an AUX drive rattle! New grille time? It's slightly bent at one end anyway)
Overspray, various scratches
N/S/F Inspection panel missing
O/S/R Track Rod end bush minor play
N/S/R Track rod end bush excess play
N/S/R Track rod end bush excess play - (same one twice?)
Both cam covers leaking - (already on the list)
Coolant radiator bottom hose needs replacing - (this is because it is covered in PS fluid from the leak and has perished)
Blue overspray in wheel arches
Fan resistor missing and bypassed - (now replaced)
X Pipe joins blowing, wrong type of clamps
L/H decat pipe blowing from weld
Exhaust system welds all blowing - (if I take it back to the exhaust fabricator will they fix it??)
Selector lever bolt on gearbox loose - (oh dear! Would this explain sloppy 2nd to 3rd shift?)
Heavy wear on handbrake cable
No power on at ODB power - Needs investigating - (being discussed here http://www.sportsmaserati.co.uk/showthread.php/22025-ODBII-Port-not-working?p=519883#post519883)
All wheel centre caps missing trident badge - (this is probably where the dealer got the wheels re-sprayed on the cheap)
Undertray bolts missing - (they replaced these)
Power steering fluid leaking from threaded union - needs investigating
One of keys not operating central locking - (reset needed?)


Some food for thought, by the time I finished typing it all out I thought to myself maybe this list is longer than I am allowing myself to believe. Although a lot of it is your standard scuffs dents and scratches... long term if I keep it then I will put her in for a quality full re-spray.

Track rod ends are top of the list obviously, along with fiddling with the PS rads, replacing the cooling hose + coolant and handbrake.

They said overall the car is solid but has been slightly neglected and/or was subject to poor quality labour which I already knew.

Feel free to comment/help/take the p!ss

 

[safrane]

Take heart...a lot of this is DIYable.

 

[Contigo]

X Pipe joins blowing, wrong type of clamps

Josh?

 

[midlifecrisis]

Here two fixes

Reset seat tilt memory (This can be done on both driver's and passenger's seats. )
Open the driver's side door and QUICKLY (must all be completed within 5 seconds) click the fore/aft adjuster forward-backward-forward-backward (just click - you don't need to move the seat much at all), then release the seat back and tilt it all the way forward. The seat will then go through a calibration cycle sliding all the way forward and back twice.

Key re-programming a spare key is as follows:
Using the working key, press the button to unlock the car, then press the same button to lock the car and continue to press the button to unlock and then lock the car, until the working key stops responding (it should take about 12-16 unlock/lock cycles for this to happen). As soon as the working key stops responding, press the button on the non-working key and that key should then be reprogrammed to the car, including the original working key, leaving you with two functioning keys.

 

[FIFTY]

Take heart...a lot of this is DIYable.

I'm not disheartened, I was expecting something more sinister but the majority of it is wear and tear.

X Pipe joins blowing, wrong type of clamps

Josh?

Sent you a PM mate

Here two fixes

Reset seat tilt memory (This can be done on both driver's and passenger's seats. )
Open the driver's side door and QUICKLY (must all be completed within 5 seconds) click the fore/aft adjuster forward-backward-forward-backward (just click - you don't need to move the seat much at all), then release the seat back and tilt it all the way forward. The seat will then go through a calibration cycle sliding all the way forward and back twice.

Key re-programming a spare key is as follows:
Using the working key, press the button to unlock the car, then press the same button to lock the car and continue to press the button to unlock and then lock the car, until the working key stops responding (it should take about 12-16 unlock/lock cycles for this to happen). As soon as the working key stops responding, press the button on the non-working key and that key should then be reprogrammed to the car, including the original working key, leaving you with two functioning keys.

Thanks Martin I will have a stab at this after my late lunch and report back. The seat one reminds me of re-programming the keys on my old Lexus IS200, something like open and close the drivers door 3 times put the key in ignition switch it on and off 20 times and then hit the keys on the key fob in another ritual... it usually took about 10 attempts to get right

 

[BennyD]

MODS; all these reset 'tricks' could do with putting up as a sticky.

 

[FIFTY]

Both keys are now working, thank you Martin for advising the reset procedure.

With the seat ECU, the reset has got the auto tilt feature working on the passenger side but not on the drivers. I assumed this was normal as if the driver is quite tall then there is potential to crush the legs of the passenger behind so the drivers would not auto tilt. Correct me if I am wrong here.

Boot lid N/S corner touching quarter panel when opened

Looks ok-ish before I opened the boot lid and there is a nice patch of rust, get treated ASAP yes? Any ideas on how to adjust it? It seems to dig in to the body while opening the lid. It is not so bad if I open the boot slowly but with any speed it scrapes the body.


Window Operation - N/S Window knock, O/S Operation Slow
Window Channels - N/S Window hitting top of channel
Seems to be quite a historic problem considering the window has worn down and maybe it has caused the knocking motor. Autogaurd cover the motor and switches I will give them a call and find out the terms. If not I'll look into a DIY or get a good mechanic to do it. I can see on e-bay that the actuators are about £250 used...

Does the window need adjusting in the actuator to avoid it hitting the channel?



Front bumper grille rattle

I am kind of pleased that I have an excuse to get rid of the knackered grille, the rattle is coming from the lower chrome surround where the trident is flexing around from the resonance of the V8 engine it is making the chrome rattle against the shrouding/bumper, it is quite loud. It is probably not helped by the R/H corner being dented by some grips where some one has maybe tried to steal the grille. I am a little worried that by taking the grillle off I will loose a load of paint that has bubbled away a bit from the bottom of the surround but I might take the risk.

 

[safrane]

Pull the grill off.

Three screws hold it in at the top then five torpedo clips hold the bittom in...liberal wd40 around them then pull oitthe while unit towards you...mask the whole area to avoid scratches.

The Trident is bolted from underneath. You can get both re chromed and it will look as good as new and save you £500.

 

[GeoffCapes]

How much was the inspection?

 

[CatmanV2]

Driver's seat should tilt. Did you do the process on both sides?

C

 

[FIFTY]

Pull the grill off.

Three screws hold it in at the top then five torpedo clips hold the bittom in...liberal wd40 around them then pull oitthe while unit towards you...mask the whole area to avoid scratches.

The Trident is bolted from underneath. You can get both re chromed and it will look as good as new and save you £500.

Agreed but will the chromers be able to take the damage out of the left hand side? I imagine the edge near the mesh won't be too difficult but it has crumpled on the outer edge

How much was the inspection?

200+VAT I had some extra bits done so it worked out to a little more

Driver's seat should tilt. Did you do the process on both sides?

C

Yes, drivers side did the calibration process after I tilted forward but it did not auto tilt after. Repeated the process on the passenger side but after tiltung it only went forwards once and the auto tilt started working. Shall I try again?

 

[CatmanV2]

Yes, drivers side did the calibration process after I tilted forward but it did not auto tilt after. Repeated the process on the passenger side but after tiltung it only went forwards once and the auto tilt started working. Shall I try again?

I would. It really should go forwards and back twice. When you say auto *tilt*, do you actually mean auto forward? If so, you sure you're not as far forward as it goes (you might be short)....
C

 

[FIFTY]

Yeah it says "auto tilt" on the report but I mean auto forward The drivers seat went forward and back twice but not the passenger seat. Will have another stab tomorrow

Regarding the grille I might get a used one that is in better condition and get it rechromed if necessary. What should I expect to pay for one of these used..? just so I know when negotiating.

 

[allandwf]

Re Grille, this may help.

http://www.sportsmaserati.com/showthread.php/21486-3200-Grille-Removal-and-Refurbishment

The trident should just push over to align properly.

 

[FIFTY]

Thanks Alan, been on the case for a used chrome surround but it seems as though they are rarer than I thought so maybe I should get mine repaired.

O/S/R Track Rod end bush minor play
N/S/R Track rod end bush excess play
I approached this as many would, did a brief search online to see that a part is available on Europarts, I called a couple of dealers expecting a similar price but to my shock they informed me that I have to buy 2 whole wishbones just to replace a part that essentially screws off! Nice one FCA.

Seems like the only option is to use a press and replace the bushes. I am reading through Craig Waterman's thread on the aftermarket option: http://www.sportsmaserati.com/showt...ranSport-Aftermarket-Rear-Tie-Rod-replacement.

On the plus side Dick Lovett Swindon have some replacement rubber inserts for the key fob, £10/each I got two as one has badly deteriorated and the other has a small tear... They have another 4no in stock so get them quick. Also the blowing custom exhaust will be looked at later in the week.

 

[Zep]

The replacement bearing is a GE15C SKF. You don't need a press to change them, a reasonable vice or some threaded rod and some sockets will do the job. There are some inserts in the bearing that you can drive out with a punch.

The biggest challenge with this job is getting the track rod out of the suspension arm. Once the lock but is off I used a jack under a big spanner, just take care not to round off the insert.

 

[Evo Cymru]

Here two fixes

Reset seat tilt memory (This can be done on both driver's and passenger's seats. )
Open the driver's side door and QUICKLY (must all be completed within 5 seconds) click the fore/aft adjuster forward-backward-forward-backward (just click - you don't need to move the seat much at all), then release the seat back and tilt it all the way forward. The seat will then go through a calibration cycle sliding all the way forward and back twice.

Key re-programming a spare key is as follows:
Using the working key, press the button to unlock the car, then press the same button to lock the car and continue to press the button to unlock and then lock the car, until the working key stops responding (it should take about 12-16 unlock/lock cycles for this to happen). As soon as the working key stops responding, press the button on the non-working key and that key should then be reprogrammed to the car, including the original working key, leaving you with two functioning keys.

Interesting - regarding this key fix - both my keys work the alarm, doors and boot but only one will start the car - will this method reset the immobilizer function too?

 

[CatmanV2]

Interesting - regarding this key fix - both my keys work the alarm, doors and boot but only one will start the car - will this method reset the immobilizer function too?

No. The CODE and the alarm / central locking are totally separate systems. You need to have the RFID chip in the key programmed (whitelisted actually) in the car ECU.

*Or* the chip dropped out last time you changed the battery, which is what normally happens....

C

 

[Evo Cymru]

Bugger! Thought maybe a cheap fix there....

 

[CatmanV2]

Bugger! Thought maybe a cheap fix there....

Have you checked to see the chip is still in there?

C