Bit late to chime in on this, but it's something we've do daily
SO i'll really try and condense this as much as possible.
Nonsense, I've seen more issues then benefits it's just a simple dbw trick making for example 60% throttle pedal be 90% throttle output, aka sprint booster
They're wiring kit is very american in it's primitive use of scotch blocks it's waiting for wiring issues down to road.
(i've asked Cyril and Jeff why not just properly make a connector so actual plugs in but whatever)
A NCR looks for TPS to adjust it's tables in general 60% will activate it's maximum/shorts shifts hence when you fake the TP angle it will just shift like when you're actually driving aggressively
Just drive the Maserati as it's intended and just the accelerator in sport this will save clutch. (with oil at temperature offcourse)
Further more it will make low speed and parking better (DBW hacks are always WAY to jumpy)
Not that straight forward I've heard of this for years but no one ever actually shows what they do OR come with evidence
Why am i skeptical? it sounds like people just repeating 360 information (where this is a actual mod, same as on F355 Fiorano)
Like posted by spkennyuk a CS transmission has differences AND further more there are actuation difference on the robot (which is largely shared TBH)
Also the F1 pump is the same the pressure accumulator and a few other items aren't.
Now that you can adjust but for example simply plugin in that ecu would cause torque index issues because you're getting flat plane vs cross plane torque band issues
I'm not say this can't be done, i haven't seen it done and it being the case (FYI here in the shop)
- NCR/TCU swaps > CFC201 to CFC231
This is the simplest swap, a 2005 EU spec GranSport CFC231 is the best shifting and most aggressive unit, if you can find it Trofeo ECU's where setup like a 360 CS
The first big step will be not only doing a self learning run but the fine tweaking the NCR unit, here in the shop i do this weekly using my SD3 or MD laptops it's not hard it takes some finesse and hot and cold runs are required
It's not just "PIS", you have KISS point, actuator setup, gear engagement parameters, temperature to factor in.
Do a maintenance check on the hydraulic parts, whilst you don't have much data on CFC #2 series in terms of leakage tests a leaky solenoid directly effects shifts
Also a rusty input shaft, leaking f1 bearing, seeping quick release on the left-side of the gearbox, cracked f1 pump feed hoses are all factors
Fresh CHF 11 fluid in the whole system is going to be a step as well, for example mixing ATF/HDX with CHF will give a mess especially in the robot.
Check the rear gearbox mount, it's actually not ideal, hence QPV and GT run twin mounts to better absorb the inherent smacks from the F1 shifts.
Now this is something in 4200GT which is rather odd, removing the dented down pipes by free flowing ones (we're having a special oval one designed and made which will be released soon)
This actually makes the engine run smoother at 2000-4000 rpm, removes the laggyness in the engine, it creates the effect of better shifts as you're shifting in to a higher torque curve.
One of the reasons why a 2004 Quattroporte with a CFC231 feels sooooo much smother than a GranSport, that and the twin gearbox mounts versus single one in M138 chassis (hence the clunky shifting)
It's not making the gearbox better it just feels better because once engaged the engine revs up stronger.
Whilst this is a factor it's no that straight forward to quickly explain, we're currently doing trails in refurbishing them, as the actuator will go out of spec especially on 02-04 cars we've had a lot in the shop.
The sleeve bearings and shafts can go bad in-the robot too.