I just did this earlier in the year. It is INSANELY easy if you have access to the underside of the car.
You will need ~7m of 4mm vacuum line (20ft of 5/16 to us Americans), two T fittings, a vacuum actuated valve, and a latching button.
The vacuum actuated valve for the gransport mufflers is actually the same as the one used on all 4200s secondary air system int he engine (315769) I got mine of e-bay for about $20. The harness that goes into the actuator is pretty universal, I am pretty sure mine came off a Volvo or some sort - I went by image alone and found a cheap actuator w/pigtail on e-bay. I tossed the volvo actuator and used the pigtail.
You will need to wire the actuator to an on/off switch located somewhere inside the car. I placed the button on the center console, but virtually anywhere will work. Now this is where it gets a bit interesting. The non-powered condition for the actuator is open (loud) but the powered position is closed. This would mean that on a latching button the latched position is quiet and the rest position is loud. If you are OK with that skip the next paragraph.
I was not, so I ended up getting a 12V latching relay module that would allow for the resting (startup) state of the circuit to be powered, and use a momentary switch to change this to non-powered. Again, if you are OK with a latching switch no need to be bothered with any sort of relay module.
The vacuum line comes right off of manifold in the engine bay - coincidentally where it pulls from for the factory gransport mufflers (not botched). On the US version there is even a barb connector that I was able to exchange for a tee without so much as cutting the vacuum line. I ran the vacuum line along the frame rail with the brake lines, and the electrical wiring came down the transmission tunnel to meet it 1/2 way and run the same path. I zip tied the actuator to a cross-member rail and ran the vacuum line through a hole in spare tire heat shield before tee'ing out to each muffler (again going through the heat shield on either side). I found this method of routing to support wires and vacuum lines sufficiently. This is a ton of detail on how I did it - you may come up with an easier or better way of routing.
The mufflers are easy to replace. A clamp for the exhaust pipe and four bolts per side. You will need to remove the wheel and fender liner in order to access the two most outward bolts. Don't try to do it blind - you will waste a ton of time (as I did). It may take a couple of times loosening and tightening to get the exhaust tips aligned where you want them to be.
My thoughts on the project - 120% worth it. The mufflers were pricey, but everything else cost about $50 and took about 3-4 hours to install. Admittedly I have a lift, but am also meticulous and slow in how I work. With the x-pipe, secondary cat deletes, and valves open it sounds like I am being chased by a thunderstorm when I let off the throttle. At a stop light I can turn them off and the drone is not annoying.