Ghibli II winter works

dickygrace

www.richardgracecars.co.uk
Messages
7,309
Astonishing attention to detail, what a car this is going to be when you’re done. Great work and thanks for sharing.
 

sionie1

Member
Messages
1,310
This is the sort of thread that makes me want to get a project car. Then I look at the actual descriptions and realise I’ve no idea what 3/4 of the items you talk about actually do or where they go. Mind you with the level of detail in the descriptions I probably could do more than I think.. Hats off to you, I’d be rocking in a corner quietly sobbing by now.
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
I'd say your removal tool looked like a modified Q-max cutter from the good-old-days of metalwork, but it looks too shallow.

It's the factory tool. But you just need a stud in the place of crankshaft bolt, smaller diameter without threads. Thick flat iron attached to the pulley, plus some nuts and a big bolt pushing against the stud.

Further to your starter motor rebuild- do you still have the rubber-boot that goes over the back of it? Mine had perished when I swapped mine out- I think I used some heat shrink to cover it up...

Yes, still have the rubber boot, fortunately in a good condition.

was there any sign of wear on the old chains? And do the new ones come linked-round-in-a-loop? You don't have to fit a link, to join it up, or anything..?

They had some slack. Don't remember anymore about the exact values, but timing was slightly off. News chains are the same, looped by the factory, no need to fit a link.
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
This is the sort of thread that makes me want to get a project car.

and this wasn't even a project car... I don't wanna thick about how much work that would have been, although since I now touched pretty much everything probably the same :D too much "while being there let's do this as well"
 

sionie1

Member
Messages
1,310
and this wasn't even a project car... I don't wanna thick about how much work that would have been, although since I now touched pretty much everything probably the same :D too much "while being there let's do this as well"
And that would be my thinking as well, while I’m here... I’ll stick to reading this great instead.
 

ZAM400209

Member
Messages
585
the timing was slightly off- are you serious?!

Do you mean; there was 'enough' slack in the chains to knock it slightly out???

I'm shocked and astonished & shocked to read that...

(if that's what you meant..)
 

ZAM400209

Member
Messages
585
yeah- that's what I thought you meant

I'm astonished to learn there could be enough 'play' to result in measurable degrees on the cams...
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
Long silence, but unfortunately cleaning up the interior took much more time than expected.

I've found some more minor surface rust under seam sealer

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Fortunately a light sanding removed it

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Primed, resealed, painted. Couldn't find the exact color, but good enough, as it won't be really visible

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In place of the old insulation I've applied vibro dampening and heat insulation

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spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
Since the heater box was out and I don't want to remove the dashboard again anytime soon, I've peeked inside.


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Years of **** inside

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Looked for alternatives for the heater core / evaporator but couldn't find anything after browsing through a lot of catalogues. Checked all the Fiats and Lancias from that time, but nothing. The box itself is made by Veglia Borletti, also used by Ferrari and in the end it I've bumped into the same heater core in 348 and F355

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I also replaced all the degraded foam, all of them became dust by a touch. Spent quite some time with research, found that semi-closed cell foam would have been the best, talked to some manufacturers with local factories / distributors (Nitto, Cello) but none of them deal with small quantities / individuals. In the end I've used Illbruck TP600 / TP601 weather stripping, which is open cell but impregnated, and the original foam was open cell too. For insulating the evap and AC pipes, I've used Armaflex pipe insulation.

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Back in it's place

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Some more parts (which I didn't replace):
  • the blower motor is a Bosch W0133-1790228-BOS, used for example by BMW
  • the heater control motor is a Bosch 0 390 721 006, used in Saab 9000 and Ferrari

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- the valve is some a VW/Audi part

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I did replace the original expansion valve as I'm converting to R134

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spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
Fortunately the root of the A pillars, which is a weak spot, were rust free

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To keep it like that I spray in some cavity wax (Fluid Film NAS)

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Finally the dashboard went also back. Putting back everything, reconnecting wires, etc. took two whole days for me. The main internal wiring is attached to the dashboard, but I didn't wanted to disconnect everything so it had to be reattached while putting it back.

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spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
Repainted engine mounts

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Exhaust manifold, turbo installed. Heat shield sleeves on coolant pipes (Techflex Therma Shield Convoluted 12.7mm), some left-over braided fiberglass sleeve on oil delivery pipe (Techflex Insultherm Ultraflex Pro 12.7mm).

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spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
Given all the pampering it's receiving I'm looking for a nice drive in return, so it will be used :) Of course won't be a daily driver.

I switched to a faster pace now since we are already well into summer again.

Yesterday I installed the LH turbo as well, but it was a complicated dance compared to the other side. The engine mount is in the way of the wastegate bracket, there was always 2mms missing hitting the welded on nut. Trying not to nick the new paint made it even harder. In the end loosened the mount to slightly lower it to make it easier to experiment with the different orientation. I think in the end I've found the single way how this can be installed: have to start from the back, while the wastegate mount is behind the nut and gradually fold over the studs one by one. This way it's possible to avoid the nut.

Next one was the oil delivery pipe which is between the turbo and the block. Thought I'll be able to reach in, but couldn't start the threads. So everything back, thread on the line then back with the manifold. This time it was just a minute compared to the previous hour.

Finally there is a single nut on the manifold which can be only reach from behind, turning in very small increments.

What remains is the thermostat, coolant lines, starter and intake manifold so I hope to drop it in the engine bay the coming long weekend.

Don't worry you are quite further away from me, I'm afraid I won't go over the Pond soon but who knows :)
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
378
After 3 long days it's in!

Installed the remaining parts on the engine. Also the new clutch set, old was pretty worn. Since the Sachs release bearing is only available for astronomical prices I've went with a CO.ME set which I'm a bit afraid whether will work properly or not.

There was no mark for the direction of the clutch plate, so I had to make an educated guess.

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What looked really strange to me that after tightening the pressure plate, it became quite protruded. You can see the gap between the disk and the plate. Not sure how much more can this be pulled out. Will have to ask them if this is normal. But really hope I don't have to remove the gearbox, that would be awful.

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Engine is ready, intake manifold is missing to make hose and wire arrangement easier after installation. Front cover will be also installed later after verifying that it runs ok.

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Engine bay prepared

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Finally

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Putting back the engine was much trickier than taking out. Or we just had luck initially, but now several attempts were needed to arrange the straps for the proper angle.

I'm counting with two more weekends. One to connect back everything, one to install interior (seat, carpet) and do final tweaks.