Ghibli II winter works

spacecadet

Member
Messages
316
Now that you are saying. I think there was a minor wrap in one of the manifolds, but ignored it in the final rush saying it will get clamped down. Maybe the added weight of center exhaust section also did affect the manifold and slightly altered the seating on the head.
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
1,403
Now that you are saying. I think there was a minor wrap in one of the manifolds, but ignored it in the final rush saying it will get clamped down. Maybe the added weight of center exhaust section also did affect the manifold and slightly altered the seating on the head.
You’ll probably have a bit more back pressure with the full exhaust on too so more likely to blow.

Fingers and everything crossed!
 

philw696

Member
Messages
8,021
Sounds like we are getting there.
A good machine shop can reface them for a perfect fit but that probably involves a fair bit of work now.
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
316
Yeah, resurfacing wouldn't be a problem, but pulling the engine again is definitely a lot more work. Especially in my tiny one car garage. I don't think it's possible to remove the manifolds with the engine in situ, especially separating from the turbos was an involved task.
 

fphil

New Member
Messages
18
Does the noise comes from the top of the engine? Do you have oil in the camboxes? What's the oil?
 

Tamariini

Junior Member
Messages
67
sounds like cambelt pulleys are scraping the cambelt cover(s) bolted on the cylinder block in my opinion.
 

del mar

Junior Member
Messages
225
I have suffered noises in the past.

Mine wasn't run for a while when i did the refurb of the front suspension. Very noisy tappety noise.
I rocked the car backwards and forwards and it went away ?

I was working on the basis that it took a while for oil to reach the top end of the engine - dont know. The most recent time i refurbed the cam covers i poured a little oil over the camshafts and that seemed to be better on first start up for a while ???

Manifolds
I believe you can take them out without removing the engine. Remove engine mount bolts and exhaust and lever it with a bit of wood. David Askew Felt there was just enough room or remove the subframe, support the engine and drop them out of the bottom
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
316
Thanks for all the tips!

Source identified: of course it's the clutch set... I was afraid of it's incompatibility since the beginning.

Still the situation is better than expected, I might only have to remove the gearbox. Still not sure where the noise exactly comes from. First though the retaining clip for the release bearing, which is part of the pressure plate, is rubbing the fork.

58202

So I've detached and slightly pulled back the release bearing, but no change. I'll remove the steering rack to have better access to the bell housing, but most probably it will be gearbox off in the end. At least not the engine.
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
316
Indeed. Started today, ended up having a shower in power steering fluid. I should have just pushed away the rack without disconnecting the pipes.

This is the problem:

It's a combination of retaining ring, release bearing, fork. With some lubrication the noise can be decreased, but the bigger problem is that while trying to disengage, the fork wedges itself between the upper and lower extrusion plates and it's not possible to disengage. The Sachs release bearing doesn't have the upper plate, neither the side one.

58254

Originally the fork was installed the way as now, but seems like I have to turn it around. I've spent a lot of time with it, but it's just not possible without removing the bearing as it holds from every side.

Spent some time on the interior too which was a lot simpler. Insulated the floors, put back the carpet and the rear seat.

58255
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
1,403
I might be mistaken but is that a 3200 clutch?

I thought the Biturbos had a push clutch as opposed to the pull clutch of the 3200
 

spacecadet

Member
Messages
316
Last year when I was searching for a clutch set, the release bearing was unavailable. Leftover items were sold on eBay around 500 EUR. Pressure plate and disk was still available. I bought the CO.ME set because the parts of it cannot be mixed with the Sachs parts.

I was looking into the situation again over the weekend and the good news is that the release bearing has been remanufactured with a new part number: Sachs 3151 600 781. Still sold on crazy prices on eBay, but it's available from online part shops for around 100 EUR. The bad news is that now the pressure plate did become unavailable. Disk is still available, from Sachs Performance too.

Ghibli II and QP 4, maybe Shamal too already had the pull type clutches, release bearing and pressure plate is the same as in 3200 GT, only the disk differs.

I'm also unsure about that upper plate, was thinking about just cutting it off, by the look of it it will anyhow eventually break off :)

But my plan is now to use the original Sachs set. A new bearing is already on the way, and I'm going for an overhaul for the other two parts with factory parts. Disk to be relined with new springs, pressure plate at least skimmed.
 

alfatwo

Member
Messages
4,293
Last year when I was searching for a clutch set, the release bearing was unavailable. Leftover items were sold on eBay around 500 EUR. Pressure plate and disk was still available. I bought the CO.ME set because the parts of it cannot be mixed with the Sachs parts.

I was looking into the situation again over the weekend and the good news is that the release bearing has been remanufactured with a new part number: Sachs 3151 600 781. Still sold on crazy prices on eBay, but it's available from online part shops for around 100 EUR. The bad news is that now the pressure plate did become unavailable. Disk is still available, from Sachs Performance too.

Ghibli II and QP 4, maybe Shamal too already had the pull type clutches, release bearing and pressure plate is the same as in 3200 GT, only the disk differs.

I'm also unsure about that upper plate, was thinking about just cutting it off, by the look of it it will anyhow eventually break off :)

But my plan is now to use the original Sachs set. A new bearing is already on the way, and I'm going for an overhaul for the other two parts with factory parts. Disk to be relined with new springs, pressure plate at least skimmed.
Don't worry the QP4 pressure plate works just fine on a 3200, so does the slightly different drive plate.

Dave