Fabric Hood Cleaners/Proofing - any recommendations?

IanU

Member
Messages
336
As per the title really. Anyone got any experience of using one of the well known brands? Autoglym kit seems to fair well in the product tests. I'll be doing a mates car (BMW) - so don't want to co*k it up :)
Cheers
Ian.
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,071
I’ve used the Autoglym one. You need to make sure it’s spotless before putting the sealer on. Don’t get the sealer on the paint or glass and let it dry it’s a bugger to get off.
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,746
+1
However I avoid using the autoglym hard sponge as it will smooth the fabric and cause it to be shiny.

Use a stiff brush like a nail brush and avoid rubbing too hard esp where the frame pushes the hood out.

After cleaning and before putting the seal on wrap the car in cling film (glass and metal as this will prevent it dripping onto thoe areas and deying like PVA glue.

Take your time and do not do it in the sun. Like all work its the prep that makes all the difference.
 

Ianed0

Member
Messages
241
Try the Renovo range, i used it when i had my old Alfa roundtail, used the dye and proofer, as they specialise in it best stuff on the market in my opinion
 

flexwing

Member
Messages
256
I used the Renovo range a couple of years ago on a very faded soft top on a Porsche 996. Came up a treat and worked very well.
Preparation is everything! You need to remove the old proofing thoroughly using the cleaner and scrubbing brush provided in the kit. Then the secret is masking the paintwork off really well as the dye gets everywhere and can be a pig to remove later. Once the car is all masked off, the actual brushing on of the dye and then proofer is really quick and takes hardly any time. I did two coats and it looked and performed brand new.
 

IanU

Member
Messages
336
Cool - thanks fellas. Renovo it is then, especially if they do a die treatment too. Cheers for that.
 

Heavenly

Member
Messages
164
Just to add, I've used Renovo for years and I just don't think its made the same as it was, and if it is its now lacking.. It
I probably seal about 20 hoods a year now including my daughters E 350 Convertible and nothing protects as well as Fabiseal and Renovo doesn't last anywhere as near.
I think you would be mad not to use this. Most professional detailers I know use this now. 3 coats of Fabsil will keep your roof beading for years,.
I gave up on Renovo just not offering the same true bead value and it just doesn't last properly, it soaks and sheets and doesn't offer true 100% repellancy.
Shame I can't post a video of a Carbon Black Aston DBS Convertible I look after that insists I only Fabsil his roof as the beading is insane on it.

 
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Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,839
Impressive. I have a splash of Renovo left from last year and was going to get some more. Bought some Fabsil Gold today instead so thanks for the tip.

Only question mark was the Gold doesn't have any UV additive. So also picked up some of their standard+UV and will coat the hood with that first. Then apply a coat of Gold. Am wondering if it's worth doing a small area, say around the rear window, with the remaining Renovo and seeing how the products compare over time.

Perhaps just better to bin it though seeing the photo above as the Renovo certainly hasn't performed as well.
 

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,071
Cool - thanks fellas. Renovo it is then, especially if they do a die treatment too. Cheers for that.

I used the Renovo die on an MGB hood. One thing I found was that it builds colour in coats. I got a darker line in the middle where I overlapped putting it on.
 

Heavenly

Member
Messages
164
Impressive. I have a splash of Renovo left from last year and was going to get some more. Bought some Fabsil Gold today instead so thanks for the tip.

Only question mark was the Gold doesn't have any UV additive. So also picked up some of their standard+UV and will coat the hood with that first. Then apply a coat of Gold. Am wondering if it's worth doing a small area, say around the rear window, with the remaining Renovo and seeing how the products compare over time.

Perhaps just better to bin it though seeing the photo above as the Renovo certainly hasn't performed as well.

I would take your time and get a good couple of coats of Fabsil on, or even 3. It will benefit from it.
Personally I would just bin the Renovo.
I find things in detailing all the time that are just rebranded products or designed for other arenas that blend over. Fabsil has been known for years to be the best waterproofer and I believe many companies use its blend in their own.
Its like the Aeolus TD901 ive probably used for over 10 years to dry cars, now labelled as a detailing car dryer by many companies but still sold and always reknown as a dog grooming hairdryer. The motor in it is bullet proof and most importantly it has hot air. I rather buy it than buy another brand who has just stuck their own label on it.
50% of all new detailing brands are generally made in the same factory and white labelled.
 

Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,839
Yep, think you're right and best to just bin the remaining Renovo. I used 3/4L last year and it's been okay - but nothing like what you've shown above over time.
I picked up plenty of Fabsil so a few extra coats won't go a miss. Thanks again!
 

flexwing

Member
Messages
256
Interesting. Does the Fabsil dye the fabric as well? I certainly found the Renovo dye to work really well and made the hood look as good as new. The instructions are pretty clear that the dye has to be applied in one application at a time and out of direct sunlight to prevent inconsistencies in the finish. Could you use Renovo to dye the good and fabsil to waterproof?
 

Hurricane52

Member
Messages
1,211
Last year we made a brand new hood for Siddeley from this Twillfast material supplied from Woolies. It used to be billed as Mohair I think.


Should I be coating it in Fabsil or is that something you do after a few years? I’ve not been caught out in the rain yet, so didn’t even consider it until reading this post...
73184
 

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Heavenly

Member
Messages
164
Fabsil isn’t a dye, it’s a pure waterproofing system but what I will say is it will give a dark hood a better look once a few layers are brushed on.
Never brush centre to centre from both sides, work in sections with minimum overlap so I always work from one corner down the length and across the hood as I go so it’s minimal time between overlaps. If you do one half then start the other half, the centre will be overlapped from a dry section to a wet section. Paint it like you paint a wall.
 

IanU

Member
Messages
336
Thanks guys for all the info, I'll read and digest it - I'm not in any particular hurry at the moment. Tbh I'm not 100% sure when this hood was last done either so if I'm going to be spending a fair amount of time on it I want to get it right. Excellent info team - thanks.
 

MrJoshua

Member
Messages
175
I've used Fabsil Gold on my mk3 MX5 and mk1 Z4 - Both times the water beading was amazing and long-lasting.
 

Mr S

Member
Messages
821
Always used Aerospace 303 products for the hood on my old VX, and beaded as well as the Dodo Juice wax i put on the paintwork. They do a cleaner and protector.
 

nigw

Member
Messages
904
I’ve used Renovo and it’s not bad - I found it picked up the colour differently on any patches of slight wear on the hood. Limited colours too, so just depends on what colour you need.