Exhaust Valve Control Mod (how to)

Bob, that's not the exhaust solenoid. It's the one that controls the secondary air pump. If your exhausts are playing up it's at the back.

Probably

C

Brilliant, thanks. With my car, the valves often will not close for a few minutes after switching sport off (or the revs go below 3000), often needing the car to have stopped before they close. Both valves move well enough manually so I guess it is the solenoid (?). If so is it something I can change myself easily enough?
 
Brilliant, thanks. With my car, the valves often will not close for a few minutes after switching sport off (or the revs go below 3000), often needing the car to have stopped before they close. Both valves move well enough manually so I guess it is the solenoid (?). If so is it something I can change myself easily enough?

Solenoid or you're losing vacuum somewhere I suspect. The solenoid shouldn't be too hard to swap.

The location is part 48 here

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/parts/m...-f1/engine/additional-air-system-46413/184363

OEM part is about £35

C
 
Cheers, looks like an easy first try. Do you know which of the two fitting locations shown applies to the GranTurismo?
 
Cheers, looks like an easy first try. Do you know which of the two fitting locations shown applies to the GranTurismo?

Yes sorry for pointing you in the wrong place Bob, I didn't realise there was another solenoid further back. I'm not sure which one of those diagrams would apply, I'd just get under there and follow the vacuum pipes to find it.
 
What I want now is a button that actually shuts the valves but keeps the car in SPORT mode as my car is now illegal for track useage.

Yeah as Catman says its easily possible, just need to run the solenoid in parallel with the factory solenoid at the rear boxes rather than inline like this mod. Either place the solenoid down there and run the wires to the engine bay, or place the solenoid in the engine bay, and run the vacuum pipes to the rear. A couple of t-pieces would be needed either way.
 
Yes sorry for pointing you in the wrong place Bob, I didn't realise there was another solenoid further back. I'm not sure which one of those diagrams would apply, I'd just get under there and follow the vacuum pipes to find it.

No problems at all, will have a look.
 
for those with sticky valves, high temp copper grease, the brake pad stuff, might work on the spindles once loosened a bit? Just a thought.
 
I did this mod on a 4.2 and it almost works great. Except on startup with the valves closed there is small rattle in the left muffler. It goes away when valves are opened and then closed. I think it might be that the vacuum is not strong enough. I used a Y to split the vacuum line to the mufflers, where as the line to the left muffler is a bit longer (thus has less vacuum?). Or i suspect i need the bigger vacuum tank that is fitted to the 4.7.
Did anyone have the a similar issue or is there someone with a bit more knowledge about vacuum systems that could explain this?
 
The valves will open anyway on start up. However they shouldn't rattle at all, closed or open.

Rubber mallet and see what happens when you start tapping. you may need to cut out and replace

C
 
Is there a list of exact items that need purchasing.. perhaps links to those so that a non-techy could purchase these and hand them over to AV Engineering for installation?
- or is there a complete kit that can be purchased?
I would love to be able to keep the skyhook in normal mode but with the noise (X-pipe about to be fitted)
 
Is there a list of exact items that need purchasing.. perhaps links to those so that a non-techy could purchase these and hand them over to AV Engineering for installation?
- or is there a complete kit that can be purchased?
I would love to be able to keep the skyhook in normal mode but with the noise (X-pipe about to be fitted)

This is what i purchased on ebay:
Hot 433Mhz Wireless DC 12V 10A Relay Receiver Remote Control Switch Controller 4 GBP
Inner diameter 1/8" 3mm Vacuum Silicone Hose Racing line Pipe Tube 7M Black 16 GBP
BMW 3 Series E46 330CI 3.0 Petrol Air Intake Manifold Vacuum Valve 1742712 7 GBP (second hand but works fine)
Aquarium Koi Ponds Fish Tank Marine Reef Plastic Hose Pipe Tube Connector Joine (2xT/2xY Joints) 6 GBP
12V Piggy Back Fuse Blade Holder with Fuse Amp Car Motor Van Tap Add a Circuit 5 GBP
DC 12V 1CH 2Way Wireless Remote Control Relay Switch Transceiver Receiver 433MHz 5 GBP -> i did not get the module to work so i purchased another one. You can buy the module i mentioned first and a separate remote.

I had some wire and connectors for the ground laying around, but i suspect an additional 10 pounds would be enough to cover those costs. I think in total is spend around 50 pounds for all materials.
Also a lot of tie wraps to run the vacuum hose from engine bay to mufflers. There is some installation quirks i had to deal with but its now fully up and running.
 
Just wanted to say thank you for this thread. VW vacuum valve now fitted and working great off a remote switch kit - I picked that valve as it came with a bit of hacked-out wiring and the plug. Took front of the airbox out to do it - air flow meter and airbox cover come out as one after unclipping one big 'jubilee-type' clip and give you enough space to work from the top - just. I just cut through the existing pipe where it tees off near the accumulator, put the valve in and tywrapped it securely there, didn't use any additional pipe. I had a spare slot in the mini fuse block near the front so took power off that. I did blow the budget and got a replacement jubilee clip for the airflow meter but the single use clips do go back together ok.
Comfort suspension and stupid exhaust - perfect :cool:
 
Yep, very pleased with option of open valves with comfort suspension. Didn’t fit it myself though but it’s definitely worth having.
 
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