Engine-out on a 3200GT

koentador

Junior Member
Messages
36
Hi all,

I am working on my 3200 and doing an engine overhaul this winter. Depending its condition I will probably also do the automatic gear box.

Now I am following the workshop manual and it is super clear except for the point that I think it only covers a manual gearbox situation as I see no room for the engine+gearbox combination to come out as a whole. This auto gearbox hangs relatively low. I did not see the manual gearbox yet but I think that is smaller and has room to manoeuver over the subframe.
But before I try to separate the two inside the car and then lift the engine from the bonnet (and if needed the gearbox from below the car).

Anyone who has this experience or knowledge about engine-out with the automatic gearbox?
 
Never tried it. However the back mounting on the gearbox removes easy enough and with the prop and exhaust out of the way, don't see any reason it would not allow the back of the geabox to drop to get the angle you need. Having said that the whole thing is unbelievably tight in there ,especially the top of the engine at the bulkhead and i would have thought removing then separately would be the safest bet.
 
Engine came out without problems. The hardest part was to undo the 6 allen bolts that connects the bell housing to the engine as 2 of them are hard to reach but very doable with the right wrenches. I also had to remove the intake manifold, water inlet and starter motor before lifting the engine. Also it was important to lock the transmission's converter in place so it would not come out with the engine's flex plate. The bolts between flex plate and converter where easy to remove as at the bottom end of the bell housing there is a service hole through which one can undo the 4 hex bolts.

Now the plan is to send both turbo's to a (local) company for inspection and/or rebuild.
Same for the injectors and probably alternator.
In the meantime I will do both cylinder heads (gaskets, valve seals and check for timing condition and improvements).
Also as many of the block gaskets and rings but I am a bit hesitant towards splitting the crankshaft housing as I have zero knowledge about balancing procedure for the crankshaft after the gaskets are done. It looks most oil is leaking from the block so it also feels a bit inevitable at this point

I am also thinking about checking the condition of the fuel pumps and hoses inside the fuel tank as it seems not a very hard job once the fuel tank is empty and winter season has just begun...

I am open for recommendations or things to take a look at.
 

Attachments

  • tempImageYm0GaU.png
    tempImageYm0GaU.png
    991 KB · Views: 32
  • tempImagexoVBcg.png
    tempImagexoVBcg.png
    949.7 KB · Views: 34
  • tempImageFz53HS.png
    tempImageFz53HS.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 32
Bearings won’t need the crank balancing either. Unless you’re changing; crank/rods/pistons you don’t need to balance.
 
Hi, thanks for the great post. I am facing having to replace the hard gaskets on my 3200 in the new year, so this is very useful to me. I understand head gaskets can possibly be done without removing the engine but that it may be just as easy/quick to remove it. How many hours or days did it take you to remove it?
Also how did you lock the transmission torque converter in place? Did you do it as per the factory manual by tapping a hole in the transmission housing and bolting in a bracket like the factory tool to hold it in place?
 
Engine out gives a great opportunity to fine tune timing control/ exchange rear timing chains.
Could bring some extra horses!
 
Engine out gives a great opportunity to fine tune timing control/ exchange rear timing chains.
Could bring some extra horses!
Yes I heard these timing chains wear over time and I will definitely inspect them and replace if needed.
I have never done a timing procedure before but I am really looking forward to it as the workshop manual and forums like these are helping.

Hi, thanks for the great post. I am facing having to replace the hard gaskets on my 3200 in the new year, so this is very useful to me. I understand head gaskets can possibly be done without removing the engine but that it may be just as easy/quick to remove it. How many hours or days did it take you to remove it?
Also how did you lock the transmission torque converter in place? Did you do it as per the factory manual by tapping a hole in the transmission housing and bolting in a bracket like the factory tool to hold it in place?
I think it is doable with the engine in place. The hardest part is probably to remove the back covers of the cam boxes and then being able to adjust camshafts nuts on the backside as this is needed during the timing procedure. If it were only for the headgaskets I would leave the engine in the bay and try it from there...

And I found a hole predrilled in the bell housing so either the autobox and the engine were decoupled before for some reason or a Maserati mechanic did this in the factory. You won't need the tool from the workshop manual. I would just eyeball the position of the converter, drill the hole in this location and the put a 6mm bolt in.

It took me 4 full days to get to this point (removing wiring and hoses in the engine compartment and pre-cats + center cat section, and decoupling the automatic transmission). I think if you have a manual it is easier to take it out with the engine but the autobox is just hanging too low to maneuver above the subframe. I had the car on 4 axle supports +/- 50 cm above the floor but if you have a bridge things get easier.
 
Last edited:
Great, thanks for the advice. One thing I do know now thanks to you is that if I do take the engine out I will definitely seperate the transmission first as my car is an automatic too.
 
If you use a hoist, couldn't you leave everything on the subframe, support the gearbox and lift the body?
Or is the engine to wide to fit through the engine bay downwards?
 
Yes I heard these timing chains wear over time and I will definitely inspect them and replace if needed.
I have never done a timing procedure before but I am really looking forward to it as the workshop manual and forums like these are helping.


I think it is doable with the engine in place. The hardest part is probably to remove the back covers of the cam boxes and then being able to adjust camshafts nuts on the backside as this is needed during the timing procedure. If it were only for the headgaskets I would leave the engine in the bay and try it from there...

And I found a hole predrilled in the bell housing so either the autobox and the engine were decoupled before for some reason or a Maserati mechanic did this in the factory. You won't need the tool from the workshop manual. I would just eyeball the position of the converter, drill the hole in this location and the put a 6mm bolt in.



One rainy afternoon I was scrolling through forums looking for new entertainment options and stumbled upon spinmama casino login. What stood out was how straightforward everything was. After losing quite a few small bets in a row I decided to go a bit higher on a high-volatility slot and suddenly hit a winning streak that more than made up for the earlier losses. The feeling was satisfying. I enjoy spending my free evenings here now.
It took me 4 full days to get to this point (removing wiring and hoses in the engine compartment and pre-cats + center cat section, and decoupling the automatic transmission). I think if you have a manual it is easier to take it out with the engine but the autobox is just hanging too low to maneuver above the subframe. I had the car on 4 axle supports +/- 50 cm above the floor but if you have a bridge things get easier.
wow nice
 
Top