DIY Adventures With a 2009 Quattroporte S

@Neptune. the real oil filter also comes in a bag wet with oil right?

Lucky you spotted it. It's ok to make concious decisions to use non oem parts of equal quality...but poor quality counterfeit is something else. The best we can do is keep talking about it so everyone on this forum at least is clued up and the junk doesn't get bought.

Keep up the good work. Your car is one lucky car
 
I have just spent a happy hour or two reading this whole thread, it's like reading a good thriller with the ups and downs you describe. @Neptune you really are an inspiration! I like working on cars myself, and fixing issues, so it's great to see that even a potentially intimidating car (in terms of complexity) like the QP can be tackled at home. I don't have anything like your skills, but I do have the luxury of a double garage to work in - I really wouldn't want to be working outside!

I have had my GranSport for a couple of months and so far have just fitted a cruise control switch, and bypassed and removed the faulty hifi amp. I did open up the amp to see if I could spot anything obvious, then decided that it was way out of my comfort zone and put it back together again :D. I was out driving today and my MSP and sky hook warning lights came on after I went over a pothole so there may be something brewing, although when I restarted the car the warning lights had disappeared...

@Neptune, I hope you soon find new and rewarding employment, if you haven't already. You will clearly be a great asset for any employer with your can-do attitude and talent.
 
Having just watched Jayemm on YouTube review his own B7 RS4 bought under £10k as a "sensible daily driver". His opinion matched the general consensus to avoid the Italian cars which are fragile and expensive to maintain. I was about to add my comment " just get the QP V with ZF ".

His well serviced car had been laid up four years but presented as excellent. Much to and fro with one failed adaptive damper + service + new tyres and wheel refurb cost £6.5

This fits with my own evidence from friends who admitted only in private their M3 or RS4 costs four figures min each trip to garage. In reality the M3 shares virtually nothing with equivalent since E36 model, including body panels.
 
@Neptune. the real oil filter also comes in a bag wet with oil right?

Lucky you spotted it. It's ok to make concious decisions to use non oem parts of equal quality...but poor quality counterfeit is something else. The best we can do is keep talking about it so everyone on this forum at least is clued up and the junk doesn't get bought.

Keep up the good work. Your car is one lucky car
I have filter in a box, no sign of a bag or any oil but mine is earlier dry sump car.
( unless this is a joke ?)
 
@Neptune. the real oil filter also comes in a bag wet with oil right?
Yes indeed, it came a bit messy with this oily plastic bag.



Great news guys, I finally accomplished the dream of most car drivers, which is of course to crush one of these annoying cyclists that we all hate!

Just kidding, luckily nothing too serious, We were both litterally driving at like 5 or 10kmh, that was a very pathetic accident (my fault, I didn't see him coming as he was hidden behing the A pillar the entire time, but for my defense it was dark and he had no lights :p). Anyway our 2 wheeled buddy is fine, just a sore butt, I offered him a new bike as an apology for his trouble and all is well.

The really horrible part of this story is that it broke both front grills of the car.

So this was a good opportunity to remove the front bumper and see what was underneath:

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Removing the bumper was easier than expected, I've read that you have to remove the front wheels and wheel arches but I managed to do it without having to do that, I just turned the steering enough to give me some working space, then popped out the part of the wheel arch that was close to the bumper. A lot faster than having to remove everything.

Everything is in great condition, just some very minor traces of a small accident on the crash bar that probably happened years ago, and a bump on the bottom of the coolant radiator, but really nothing serious at all, the frame is in great shape and you can see the original paint all over it.
Most of the screws were rusted and some broke, so it took a while and I had to spend time to extract them, it was a bit annoying.
I replaced all the screws, nuts and washers with high quality 304 steel so they aren't gonna rust anytime soon.

So, the main grill was broken:
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Luckily I found the broken bits on the road so I did as usual using some wire mesh and my soldering iron to weld things back together:
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Also had a few broken tabs, I did a great job on this one, the repair is hardly even visible:
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And done:
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I'm pretty satisfied with the result, it's almost invisible.
To be honest, I wasn't a big fan of the shiny convex grill on the QPV when I was first looking for a quattroporte. I think that this grill doesn't look good on pictures. That being said, I think it looks great and classy in real life, I do really like it now.
When I first got the car I thought I would replace it with the GTS grill, but now I think I'm going to keep it this way. Maybe I'll get a GTS grill someday for fun if I get a really good deal, but that's definitely low now on my list of priorities.

Next I had to work on the small grill underneath, it was already loose before but it got bent and detached almost entirely, it probably hit the bike's pedals.
I flattened it back to its original form with a hammer, then painted it mate black:
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Unfortunately all the tabs on the bumper were broken (not me, someone else did it), so I had to improvise. I carefully bent the grill around the hole in the bumper, and added some new plastic, heating it with a slodering iron.
It's holding pretty well and it looks clean:
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I forgot to take pictures, but I also took apart the fog lights, re-polished the glass and painted the plastics

I cleaned the radiators with a high pressure washer, and then put a new coat of paint on them.
Also painted the plastic shroud that guides the air towards the radiators as it was looking a big grayish because of UV light.

Now the whole front looks almost like new:
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While doing this I discovered that my coolant reservoir is slightly leaking. It seems like there might be some tiny pinholes. The leak is very small because it doesn't drip on the floor, but the wiring harness tape that touches the reservoir is wet all over.
I ordered a new one for extremely cheap (20 euro). It's surely not OEM but I don't think it matters here, it's easy enough to replace and I will keep using the original cap wich in my opinion is the only important part.
Also, I wonder if my coolant thermostat is working fine, I will have to check it. Do you guys know at what exact temperature it is supposed to open and close?
 
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Good job. Good reminder to get in touch with my insurance to claim a bumper respray and resfresh all the little bits. Looks so much better with everything cleaned and painted.
 
I have filter in a box, no sign of a bag or any oil but mine is earlier dry sump car.
( unless this is a joke ?)
Phil and Neptune along with myself can certainly confirm that the oil filter with part number 289571 should be pre wet with oil in a bag when you open it

See here for my query on it Click here

Maybe you have a different part number. If not....then as per neptunes post and the link to maserati life check that you dont have a counterfeit filter.

Pre maserati GT I freely admit i had never seen an oil filter wet with oil from new...but I've never owned an Italian or exotic car before!

Edit.

Extra link on the oil filter. Sorry to hijack your thread @Neptune. Your grill looks great. Lucky car.

Just helping @rs48635. Who queried the wet bag oil comment for a 289571 oil filter.

Click here extra link
 
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thanks for the advice guys.Now wondering if my on the shelf filter is for my Assetto Corsa after all.
Will check when I get home, in the London office today. Not seen or heard a decent car so far.
 
Sorry to hijack your thread @Neptune.
No problem mate, you aren't hijacking, the thread is public and it's always nice to have people participating!
I can't be the only one doing all the talking!

Anyway, a bit of work on the cooling circuit of the car. I just detected a small leak on the coolant tank and also I wanted to check if the engine coolant thermostat was working normally.

First I drained the coolant.
To do this, you have to remove the bottom panels from underneath the car, and you get access to a 14mm plastic screw on the bottom right of the radiator.
Put a bit of cardboard to redirect the flow of coolant otherwise it's gonna splash everywhere:
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After that, I removed the coolant reservoir, and also the air filter/MAF/Throttle body assembly in order to make myself some space to get to the the thermostat.

It's not necessary, you can replace the thermostat without removing anything, but it just takes 2 minutes to remove these and then you're much more comfortable working there after that:

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So here is the new tank vs the old one:
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It's interesting to see how the old one inflated like a balloon. That explains all the stress cracks on the sides, where the water was seeping from.

The old one is an official maserati. The new one is a reproduction. Honestly the reproduction seems of good quality, so unless the material is bad this should last at least a few years. It was very cheap I paid the equivalent of 20 Euro.

Btw, fun stat: so far I've spent almost exactly 1600 Euro on various parts and fluids (excluding gas) in total since I got the car last year. Many of which I haven't replaced yet (head cover gaskets, motor mounts, gearbox rebuild kit, gearbox oil, etc)
It's actually lower than I thought I'd spend so I'm very happy with it. I intend to keep it that way or, even better, spend less.

Anyway, So I took out the thermostatic valve and gave it a quick clean:
IMG_20260105_175649.jpg

It was in closed position when I got it out of the car, so that means it was working, otherwise my engine would have overheated a long time ago.
That's good.

So next I wanted to check at what temperature it was opening/closing:
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It opened at around 80-85 degreeC , and closed at a comparable temperature.
I assume it's ok since I don't know what s supposed to be the correct temperature, but it sounds about right although maybe a tad cold.
But I'm no expert so feel free to correct me.

This thing isn't cheap so I was happy to see that it was still ok. I wonder if this could be repaired, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the springs. I guess we'll have to investigate on this one another time.

Speaking of investigation, I was curious so I opened my El Cheapo filter:

IMG_20260105_230928.jpg
The bypass valve seems weak indeed and there are many places where it looks like oil could leak internally, bypassing the filter.I can confirm that they aren't great, don't buy a fake filter, it isn't worth risking your engine

Anyway, then it was time to put coolant back in the car.
But before this, I flushed the rest of the coolant out of the circuit the redneck way, by plugging a garden hose in the pipes and the thermostat hole until clean water was running out. The goal here is to remove all the old coolant, because you don't want it to react badly with the new one. The new coolant is far less likely to react with water than the old coolant.

I bought a big jug of universal cooling liquid for tractors/trucks, it was like 5 Euro for 20L, much cheaper than the same thing in a small bottle with a car printed on its label.
I don't think it makes any difference, but I'll check and monitor. I'll do a second fluid replacement in a few days (since there is still some tap water in the engine, diluted in the coolant).

The engine on the Quattroporte is self bubbling so thats pretty cool, but for good measure I decided to use vacuum to fill it, and I'm glad I did because I was able to detect a small leak at the thermostat. Just put a tiny bit of sealant around the O-ring and problem solved.
Then I filled the engine :
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Everything's good, the new coolant reservoir doesn't leak and the car temperature is normal. Did about 100km today and it's all fine.
 
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I'm having a few days where I'm not gonna need the car and won't be very busy, so it was a good opportunity to replace those leaky valve cover gaskets.
Since I was doing that, I decided it might be a good opportunity to repaint them and make the engine look nice again. Plus work on a few things like replacing various other gaskets, improve the air/oil separator system and clean the variable valve timing solenoids, amongst other things.

So first I had to take off the covers, which was a lot easier and quicker than I thought, the only really annoying part is to remove the windshield wiper cowl, but nothing difficult now as I already did it a few times.
Then disconnect the wiring for the spark plugs and remove the coil packs as well as some other stuff that was in the way:

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Then I just had to remove all the screws that hold the cover in place. I was pleased to see that all screws were the same, which will greatly help putting things back together. All the screws were easy to get, as long as you have a small 1/4 ratchet and some short sockets everything is relatively accessible
I had to carefully bend the dipstick tube in order to give the cover more room to be removed:
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The covers gaskets were stuck so I had to pry them with a big screwdriver.
They gave up the fight easily and revealed the camshafts underneath:
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Everything seems in fairly good condition, I saw nothing to worry about, that's cool.
I then removed the VVT solenoid, which didn't seem to be dirty or clogged.

Same story on the other side:

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I ended up with a bunch of cool, but dirty parts on my bench. All the seals were completely toast and desperately needed to be replaced, they were hard and brittle:
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At first the plan was to do the paint myself, but I've done it before and it's a bit of a hassle if you don't have an oven to properly cure the wrinkle paint, plus painting in my shop is always a hassle since the garage is so small, so for once I decided to subcontract this task to a professional painter. It wasn't terribly more expensive than doing it myself either (about 120 Euro in total).
I've sent the covers to a shop near Guangzhou, and they are being prepped for paint as we speak.

Next thing is to see what is going on with the oil separator. I'm not very experienced with this thing, but I'm having what I assume is excessive amounts of oil finding its way into the intake plenum. I don't think this is normal, the role of this thing should be to prevent this from happening.

So I took it apart to inspect the diaphragm (the orange thing):
IMG_20260111_130612.jpg
Seems mostly good, but you can see that the center of the diaphragm has a clearer circular mark, which is a bit of damage due to friction with the black plastic part on the left.
I don't think this is the issue though, but I'm going to try and find a replacement for it while I'm there anyway.

Next was to remove the filter :
IMG_20260111_224122.jpg

Took me a while to figure out how to separate those two pieces without destroying everything, but once you figure it out it's easy. Anyway, as you can see the filter fabric is completely collapsed. I think it's the problem, the fibers have been clogged with oil debris, so it's not permeable to air enough to do it's job anymore.

So... what should I do?
This filter is not sold as a separate element, you have to buy the entire system that costs about 200 Euro here in China.
I'm certainly not gonna pay 200Euro for a small diaphragm and a bit of sponge, nope!

After a bit of research, I found out what this fabric material was, and managed to source a supplier for it, so I purchased a few square centimeters for 2Euro.
Then I took a picture of the diaphragm and used the search by picture functions of taobao (the chinese equivalent of temu), and found out that this diaphragm is also used in a few BMWs. or at least it looks like the exact same but in a different color. So I've ordered one for a whopping 3Euro, including the plastic cover. So, If all goes well and with a bit of luck, I might be able to repair this thing for 5Euro instead of 200+. At least that's the plan, I guess we'll see.

I've also checked the spark plugs on the right bank and they all looked okay. I'll still have to check the left bank.

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This was also a good opportunity to clean all the parts:

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Another thing that I'm doing is to replace every single O-ring I'm coming accross + keep all the dimensions and reference for them in my 3D software so I can find these later.

I've ordered every one of these O-rings so I'll replace them all, of course I'm not buying the super expensive official since they clearly don't age impressively well, I chose to find ones with the same dimensions but intended for industrial applications. The material I chose is Viton FKM which is the best possible O-ring material, only second to FFKM. I wanted to use FFKM at first, but it was shockingly expensive. Anyway, new O-rings should come in a few days, let's hope they will last longer.

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Also, I'm trying to come up with a plan to test my injectors flow + pattern. Will probably try to build a small injector testing machine for cheap.
 
great job. So many tasks on our cars can be done once the hurdle of daily driver is leaped. Bit of self-confidence clearly helps too :)

Good call on the o-rings. I remembered Viton were resistant to most chemicals from a year spent as Field engineer on two part dispensing automation machines. Almost all these small fasteners and rubber seals / o-rings can be sourced elsewhere.
 
Hi Neptune , do you have a link to the headlight film you used earlier in this thread please, or something similar ? If it's water based (rather than heat) is it a tinted PPF ?
 
Hi Neptune , do you have a link to the headlight film you used earlier in this thread please, or something similar ? If it's water based (rather than heat) is it a tinted PPF ?

Sure, but I'm not certain you'll be able to access it from outside of China: here
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It's called TPH film, it works with water. The more water you spray on it the easier it gets.
 
Still waiting for my engine covers, hopefully they should arrive tomorrow, so in the meantime I'm trying to service the air/oil separator.
The filter was very much tired and some fibers were loose. Most of the fabric was clogged.
IMG_20260111_224124.jpg

After searching for a while, I found a filter that looked very similar on pictures, (BMW E46). Cost me 3 Bucks.
Turns out it was exactly the same dimensions, yay!:

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The only difference is that it doesn't have this plastic disc at the bottom so it couldn't be a straight swap. So I had to remove the fabric and put it onto the old plastic part
Once again my soldering iron came to the rescue as it worked well to "sew " the fabric back together:

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Then I decided I would try to put some fine wire mesh all around it. The goal is to contain the fibers in case there is anything wrong, so they won't end up inside the engine and clog oil passages.
I melted some plastic, embedding it in the mesh, so it should be nice and secure:

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Not the prettiest job, that's for sure, but it should work and it won't be visible anyway so no need to spend too much time on the looks.
Back into the casing:
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Next I received the new cover as well as the diaphragm. Here again I was pretty lucky, they were almost a straight swap (had to modify the cover very slightly) Came from a BMW 3Series apparently, 4Euro.
I kept the original spring as the new one wan's adequate (much lower strenght):

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So far it looks like a great success. I'll install it back into the car and we'll see how it goes.
Would be nice if it works, a new Air/Oil separator is very expensive here (250 Euro). Being able to fix it for 7 bucks would be sweet.

I also bought some other components that looked similar to the ones on our engines:

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On the left the OEMs, on the right the similar looking ones. Injectors, VVT solenoids and camshaft sensors.
I don't really think any of these can work straight out of the box, so I'm keeping them for experimental spare parts and also out of curiosity, to see how they're made. These 3 things cost me about 20 Euro in total so it was worth a try.

I found out that the coil in the VVT solenoid can be easily replaced if needed. Both the OEM and the new one have a similar resistance, so they probably aren't too different from one another. If I ever get an issue with a solenoid I'll try to swap the coil and see if it works. The rest being purely mechanical is less likely to get damaged.
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I also cracked open the new camshaft position sensor. Unfortunately it isn't exactly the same as the one on our cars, as it is a little bit shorter. But I think it is possible to make a new sensor out of the old casing and the guts of the new sensor, although it won't be super easy.

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As for the injector, I can't say I would trust a random injector and install it in my car just like that (very risky, a bad injector can hydrolock and engine), so I keep it mostly as a guinea pig so I can try and build an injector testing machine later.
 
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All very interesting and there's certainly some parts I wouldn't want to trying on a very highly strung engine that if it goes wrong would be very expensive.
As always I respect what you're doing and we're all learning from it so Well Done.
 
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