DIY Adventures With a 2009 Quattroporte S

Delighted you got it going, I have to say I was devastated reading this, especially after all the hard work you have put in. I bet it feels great today.
Tip.... Touch nothing on the car for two weeks now. Just enjoy it!

I'm more interested in finding out, did this solve the initial problem you thought was linked with the module? If so it's definitely a cheaper fix than replacing wheel bearings unnecessarily.
 
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Delighted you got it going, I have to say I was devastated reading this, especially after all the hard work you have put in. I bet it feels great today.
Tip.... Touch nothing on the car for two weeks now. Just enjoy it!
Haha, yeah actually I will be back to France for a few weeks so won't touch the car for a while

I'm more interested in finding out, did this solve the initial problem you thought was linked with the module? If so it's definitely a cheaper fix than replacing wheel bearings unnecessarily.
Apparently it did.
I just came back from about one hour of driving, testing the brakes and whatnot and there was no ABS error coming back. It brakes fine and I can feel the ABS working. I still have the MSP issue but that's because of the longitudinal sensor calibration.
So yes, so far it seems like the problem really was in the ABS computer. Which really makes sense from a logical standpoint because it ticked all boxes of the symptoms. But time will tell.

Actually since yesterday evening I found a whole lot more information about these modules. They are used on many cars, like Audi (I think it was the A6), Ford (F-150) and many others. It seems like the pressure sensor is a very common issue and the cause is indeed one of these wires detaching from the mainboard. I also got confirmation on the chinese internet, I found some people who specialize in repairing these modules and one of them explained that the pressure sensor error was always due to these wires breaking. With the vibrations there is some metal fatigue occurring right where the wire is leaving the pad, and so the wire ends up breaking. This will happen to all of our cars eventually, it's only a matter of time (and I guess also a matter of heat cycles).

In my case I think at least 3, maybe 4 wires were broken, because they came off with pretty much no effort. For some reason it seems to mostly happen on the pressure sensor wires, but in some cases it happens also on some grounds and on some communication wires, which in both case result in the ECU not functioning at all. The guy said it also happens with the wires connecting to the wheel sensors.

They can be DIY soldered, but I do not recommend it... for obvious reasons haha.
I recommend using the refurbishing services. They take the ABS, remove all of these stupid flimsy wires and then put back some new stupid flimsy wires so you're good to go for a few more years. I still don't understand why these wires are so stupidly thin, it's not like it would have been that much more expensive to make them a tad thicker...

I found this video of some specialists who rebuild these units and explain the process. They seem extremely well equipped, that looks like a very serious and professional company so I guess if' you're not far from them it is worth considering :

How much did this second hand module cost Vs a new one?

Apparently a new module from eurospares is 1200 Euros. I don't know if it needs to be coded or if it comes with the car configuration pre loaded, so there might be additional fees. I don't know how much this would have cost from the local dealer, but surely more than this. Genuine parts here are usually more expensive than they are in Europe. My last resort solution was to buy one from eurospares and pick it up during my holidays.

I paid 220 euro for the second hand one, which also came with the pump and solenoid block so the entire ABS unit (they didn't want to sell me the module alone).
So all in all it's still a substantial saving over a new one, plus I now have a spare valve block, a spare pump motor, and the broken original computer that I will keep and see if I can get it fixed later. Who knows, maybe in a few years we'll see ultrasonic bonders for microscopic wires everywhere...
It started horribly but in the end it's not too bad, although the best option would have been to send the unit to get repaired just after I found out the broken wires, instead of trying the repair myself.

Live and learn, next time I'll try to do my homework better.
 
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Well done for getting it sorted, your detailed posts are such an inspiration for us all and I for one find myself looking back on your earlier fixes for details on how to do things and have plucked up the courage to try on my QPV (although I would probably leave the abs ecu well alone ;) ) - please keep up the good work !
 
Haha, yeah actually I will be back to France for a few weeks so won't touch the car for a while


Apparently it did.
I just came back from about one hour of driving, testing the brakes and whatnot and there was no ABS error coming back. It brakes fine and I can feel the ABS working. I still have the MSP issue but that's because of the longitudinal sensor calibration.
So yes, so far it seems like the problem really was in the ABS computer. Which really makes sense from a logical standpoint because it ticked all boxes of the symptoms. But time will tell.

Actually since yesterday evening I found a whole lot more information about these modules. They are used on many cars, like Audi (I think it was the A6), Ford (F-150) and many others. It seems like the pressure sensor is a very common issue and the cause is indeed one of these wires detaching from the mainboard. I also got confirmation on the chinese internet, I found some people who specialize in repairing these modules and one of them explained that the pressure sensor error was always due to these wires breaking. With the vibrations there is some metal fatigue occurring right where the wire is leaving the pad, and so the wire ends up breaking. This will happen to all of our cars eventually, it's only a matter of time (and I guess also a matter of heat cycles).

In my case I think at least 3, maybe 4 wires were broken, because they came off with pretty much no effort. For some reason it seems to mostly happen on the pressure sensor wires, but in some cases it happens also on some grounds and on some communication wires, which in both case result in the ECU not functioning at all. The guy said it also happens with the wires connecting to the wheel sensors.

They can be DIY soldered, but I do not recommend it... for obvious reasons haha.
I recommend using the refurbishing services. They take the ABS, remove all of these stupid flimsy wires and then put back some new stupid flimsy wires so you're good to go for a few more years. I still don't understand why these wires are so stupidly thin, it's not like it would have been that much more expensive to make them a tad thicker...

I found this video of some specialists who rebuild these units and explain the process. They seem extremely well equipped, that looks like a very serious and professional company so I guess if' you're not far from them it is worth considering :



Apparently a new module from eurospares is 1200 Euros. I don't know if it needs to be coded or if it comes with the car configuration pre loaded, so there might be additional fees. I don't know how much this would have cost from the local dealer, but surely more than this. Genuine parts here are usually more expensive than they are in Europe. My last resort solution was to buy one from eurospares and pick it up during my holidays.

I paid 220 euro for the second hand one, which also came with the pump and solenoid block so the entire ABS unit (they didn't want to sell me the module alone).
So all in all it's still a substantial saving over a new one, plus I now have a spare valve block, a spare pump motor, and the broken original computer that I will keep and see if I can get it fixed later. Who knows, maybe in a few years we'll see ultrasonic bonders for microscopic wires everywhere...
It started horribly but in the end it's not too bad, although the best option would have been to send the unit to get repaired just after I found out the broken wires, instead of trying the repair myself.

Live and learn, next time I'll try to do my homework better.
It's still a brilliant piece of diagnostic work you did. And it was already broken. I imagine the repair service would be similar to what you paid for the replacement part so not a bad result.
I just love this thread. You've covered a lot of issues that I was worried about, things that have been holding me back. I'm certainly not afraid of Maserati ownership anymore and this thread has a lot to do with that.
 
I for one find myself looking back on your earlier fixes for details on how to do things and have plucked up the courage to try on my QPV (although I would probably leave the abs ecu well alone ;) ) - please keep up the good work !
I'm certainly not afraid of Maserati ownership anymore and this thread has a lot to do with that.

That's awesome to read, because it's the main reason why I'm posting, I hope the community grows around these awesome cars who truly are way, way too underrated.
The more people we get to wrench on them the better!

The more we are and the more we share tips, the more knowledge, tools and repair service possibilities we all can get access to. That also means more remanufacturing parts and aftermarket parts, possibly.
All of this can help us on the long term to better maintain our cars, keep more of them on the road while even increasing their value.
But for this to happen we need to make these cars more accessible and less scary. I'm very glad to hear that this thread is at least slightly contributing to that.

I imagine the repair service would be similar to what you paid for the replacement part so not a bad result.
Believe it or not but I just found a dude who says he's willing to try to repair the broken unit by hand soldering these microscopically small wires. :oops:
I don't know how this is even possible, but he showed me pictures of a previously successful operation. The level of skill of this guy must be incredible.
I'll probably send the unit when I'll be back in September. He quoted me 120 Euro for the repair so that's very tempting.
China never cease to amaze.
Just look at what happened last week... I destroy my ABS on Thursday evening, I find another one and buy it on Friday afternoon in Guangzhou which is like 1500km away, and the thing arrived at my doorstep on Saturday morning at 9:00. Where else on the planet is this kind of thing even possible?
It's truly remarkable and I wish our countries learned a thing or two about what's being done here nowadays.

Anyway, I've put a few more driving hours and the ABS error hasn't shown up a single time yet. So far so good!:drinks:
 
@Neptune. Your posts and problem solving are a real inspiration. Ive throughly enjoyed reading your posts and seeing you do things I didn't even know where possible until you opened my eyes.

Im beyond eyes pleased for you that everything is going the right direction. If your QP becomes just what you want. You will then have to buy another Maserati with different problems so that we can keep learning from you!!
 
OMG guys, unexpected plot twist!

It works!!!!!!!!!!
Alleluia, thank you baby Jesus!

I know it will sound ridiculous, but I fixed it by... blowing on it. Yeah that's right, the good old Nintendo technique when you remove the game cartridge, blow on it and put it back.
After digging a bit about the C1101 issue I ended up on this page: https://aftersales.fiat.com/elearnsections/main.aspx?nodeID=198005793&languageID=2&markID=1&modelID=198000000&valID=198000004&prodID=198000000&modelName=Fiat&sectionName=Diagnosi per DTC&isExaminer=

It describes the various possible causes of this issue popping out. None of them seemed VIN related, they all pointed out towards some kind of hardware problem, like bad wiring or bad throttle sensor. Since there was not real reason why the sensor would have gone bad, I thought it might just be a bad connexion so why not try this desperate thing... Had litterally zero hope it would work, but well, it's not like I had anything else to do anyway.

Started the engine and no limp mode anymore! went for a small tour of the block and everything is fine.

Well I say everything but there's still this sensor calibration to be done, so I don't have MSP. But I don't care about that, I'll see how to fix it later it's not important.
The ABS function seem to work, at least it doesn't show any ABS warning. I havent tried hard braking yet.

What a crazy roller coaster!

So anyway, turns out you can actually swap these units with junkyard ones!
Which part did you blow on. The main harness electrical connection where the harness connects to the ECU?
 
Which part did you blow on. The main harness electrical connection where the harness connects to the ECU?
Yes.
But to be honest I think that what really did the trick wasn't much the blowing part, but more likely the fact that disconnecting and reconnecting rubbed the contact points just enough to remove whatever dirt or corrosion was preventing the connectors to conduct current.
 
Hello Everyone,
I'm finally back from my holiday, which was longer than expected due to some unfortunate health problems in my family. But hopefully now it should be better, so things can get back in order.

Anyway, during my holiday I still had the opportunity to work on a Maserati, just not my Quattroporte. This time it was my dad's 4200CC!

First thing was a problem with the windshield wipers that happened while I was driving. There was a huge storm, with torrential rain (and I mean really torrential, that was insane). After a few minutes some water found its way inside the cabin. Then a few minutes later the windhield wipers started acting funny... At first I couldn't stop them, or change gears then they just died entirely.
Luckily I was almost home at this point, thank god it didn't happen at the beginning of my 400km trip.

I had to do something about it, obviously, so first I gathered some information about how the windshield wiper system works. Apparently the control box for it is located on the transmission tunnel, on the driver's side.
So I took the side panel off, if was just a matter of removing a few screws:

IMG_20250901_110441.jpg

As you can see, there are two little green electronic boxes: one is in charge of the door locks, the other is in charge of the winshield wipers.
They both were wet, so I knew right away the problem was there.

I pried open the cover of the windshield wiper ECU and here is how it looked like inside after a bit of cleaning:
IMG_20250901_111700.jpg

A bit of some copper trace and a soledring pad were missing from it, which looked like a good reason why this thing stopped working.
So I bridged it back and then put some varnish on it in order to protect from corrosion:
IMG_20250901_120244.jpg

Great success, the wipers are working fine again, yay!
I decided to add a bit of silicone sealant to the casing in order to prevent water from entering in the future. Hopefully it stays dry for a while. Also did the same on the door lock module, as there was a bit of water in it as well.

I also investigated the cause for this water ingestion, so I removed the windshield wiper cowl. There was some debris but nothing was really clogged, just a few leaves. I guess it was just too much water for too long and the water evacuation sytem just isn't designed for that much water at once. Anyway, I cleaned everything for good measure. Now I realize I forgot to change the pollen filter while I was at it. That'll be for next time I guess.

IMG_20250901_140817.jpg

On the next few days I discussed with my dad about the car maintenance and learned something I wasn't expecting: this car might very well be the one with the oldest/highest mileage clutch in the world.
I mean I'm not sure what is the actual record for a cambiocorsa, but on this car the clutch has been changed in 2004 or 2005 at 30 000km. Now it's 2025 and the car has done 150 000km exactly.
So this means that the clutch is more than 20 years old and 120 000km!! Did anyone manage to do more than this?

This car has not been feathered, it's been driven relatively hard in all kind of conditions. It made a lot of city trips, small countryside roads, autobahn, you name it. It's not like it's been babysitted at all! Most of the time on sport mode, virtually never in auto mode, always manual.
It still works very well, the PIS is perfect, the only issue is a noise from the spigot bearing under hard acceleration from standstill (so we do our best to avoid doing that, we wait for the clutch to finish biting before flooring the accelerator)

I was sure that the clutch would have been changed at least two or three times, but my dad said he only done it once at the very beginning of the car ownership. I'm still very much surprized about it, because the clutch still works perfectly fine.
Anyway, I guess that means it will be a task to be done soon.

There was another thing that seemed to have never been done on this car yet: the accessory belt...
At idle I could hear a weird clacking noise, at first I thought something might be wrong with the engine but then I looked at the belt and quickly understood: it was missing entire chunks of it!

IMG_20250901_144943.jpg

Here is just one of them, but there were like 5 or 6 spots like this all around the belt. It's a small miracle this thing was even working at all. I managed to do about 800km this way (the new belt took a while to arrive).
Never seen a belt so toast.


So that was time for a belt change, first time I do that on a car. It is fairly easy on the 4200CC. You don't need a lift, you don't even need access to the bottom of the car, everything can be done from the top.
I chose to change the entire system and not only the belt, so that meant I had to change the belt tightening pulley as well as the belt tensioner pulley assembly. I ordered these on eurospares for around 250 Euro which wasn't too horribly expensive. My bearings weren't loud or anything, but the plastic wheels were a bit worn.

First thing is to remove the mass Air flow sensor and the throttle body in order to get some space.
Then a long wrench with a 15mm socket, turning counterclockwise on the tensioner screw to remove the tension, and in the meantime removing the old belt. Easy.
After this you can remove the belt tightening pulley (the one on the top). It took a 17mm wrench, but I couldn't remove the screw entirely, because it was hitting the metal tube that is used for the auxiliary air supply for the catalysers pre heating. So I had to loosen the screw that held this metal pipe, then pry a little bit with a screwdriver to get the tube out of the way just enough to remove the pulley. Worked well.

Here's a picture to illustrate what I'm talking about, the pully is held by the screw in orange (I removed the pulley for clarity), but it hits the pipe in blue. By loosening the screw in green you can wiggle the pipe just enough to remove the pulley.

IMG_20250913_233527.jpg

Next was to remove the tensioner. It isn't difficult but there isn't much space and you can't see the screw, at least from the top of the car. With the help of a long bar and a few sockets ( I think it was a 13mm but not sure) it finally came off. It wasn't difficult at all to remove it, it's just that you can't really see what you're doing so it's a bit awkward:

IMG_20250913_223832.jpg

As you can see, it had developped pretty deep grooves already, the plastic wheel was on its last leg.
I gave everything a good cleaning, then put the new parts in. Nothing special, just the same thing but reversed. The tensioner is a little bit difficult to fit in because you don't see anything and there is little space for the arms, but it's totally doable with a bit of patience. Also, make sure you fit the top pulley the right way. At first I put it the wrong way around and the belt wasn't at all running on the middle of the pulley. I took it off and reversed it and it solved the problem.
Anyway, I eventually got it right:

IMG_20250915_181151.jpg


Went for a ride and no problem, everything works well and the engine doesn't make weird noises anymore.
IMG_20250904_113855.jpg

It's such a fun car, I love how violent the transmission is, you just can't wipe the smile off your face everytime you change a gear.
I have a few things to repair on this car (air conditioning leak, roof liner, sticky buttons, small play in the rear suspension, steering ball joints and very likely a heater core), but these are to be expected on a 23 years old car. Aside form these minor details it is still driving excellent and the car is in overall great condition. The 4200 is electronically vastly simpler than the Quattroporte, so it should probably age relatively well.
 
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Fantastic and loving that you're Dad has had his Classico all that time too.
My first was a 2002 Cambio Corsa with the original transmission software and my favorite as you say Raw just Wonderful.
You were lucky on the aux belt not failing too.
Great work on the control module too.
 
Thanks for the kind words mate.

Quick question, as I am right now in the middle of replacing my alternator on the Quattroporte :
I believe I have a small leak on the hydraulic chain tensioner. Now I've already removed all the intake so I've got great access, but I've never removed a timing chain tensioner before.
It seems like it is just held in place with 4 allen screws :

1759996136026.png

Should I remove it and inspect? If I remove it, should I drain the oil first? Is there any tricky thing I should consider?
Or is this just a matter of removing these 4 screws, then popping off the tensioner, have a look at it and then put it back with a bit more sealant?

It's the first time I'm doing this thing and couldn't find any information about it on the forums. Any advice would be very welcomed before I do anything I regret.
 
Great to read the post on the 4200, and like Phil I loved my early 4200 for its raw engagement.

Re the clutch, I'm not surprised. I manage c 1k miles per 1% wear on my 3 coupès and suspect most were changed due to misunderstanding how they feel when working correctly.
AC compressor can be matched with a Opel one, you just need to swap the bracket.
 
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Thanks for the kind words mate.

Quick question, as I am right now in the middle of replacing my alternator on the Quattroporte :
I believe I have a small leak on the hydraulic chain tensioner. Now I've already removed all the intake so I've got great access, but I've never removed a timing chain tensioner before.
It seems like it is just held in place with 4 allen screws :

View attachment 144012

Should I remove it and inspect? If I remove it, should I drain the oil first? Is there any tricky thing I should consider?
Or is this just a matter of removing these 4 screws, then popping off the tensioner, have a look at it and then put it back with a bit more sealant?

It's the first time I'm doing this thing and couldn't find any information about it on the forums. Any advice would be very welcomed before I do anything I regret.
I'm thinking hard here from when I was at the Dealership and had access to all the information.
We didn't have timing lock up tools when working on the variators etc so I'm sure that nothing will Jump.
You don't need to drain the oil.
You're in deep now are the valve cover gaskets good as they would be easy to do as well as the small coolant hose at the right hand side behind the cylinder head.
 
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