Coolant

strictly

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P.p.s I will add one more thing.

The BASF Glysantin 48 = Glycoshell is based on the information above with matching shell TDS stating the hybrid and low silicates.

Because the Internet is a minefield...there is also a shell glycoshell longlife, with is just a OAT and does not contain silicates....this i reckon is a direct match to the BASF glysantin 30. I have attached picture and link for completeness.

https://expertsincarcare.com/wp-con...h/TDS/TDS-Shell-GlycoShell-50-Pre-Diluted.pdf

**** my horlicks had gone cold.
 

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strictly

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OK, I'm putting this to bed for my self, jumping to a GT2015 owners manual (see picture).

It looks like either glycoshell (HOAT) or glycoshell longlife (OAT) are suitable.

Which Is basically G48 (HOAT) vs G30 (OAT).

On the basis the BASF glysantin 30 which is also in both halfords and comma products and is from 2010, Ferrari approved and maserati recommend then, I'm going to go with that.

Both G48 and G30 are CUNA NC 956-16, so im sure both are fine as the owners book suggests

I will pick up some deionised water but if I run out I will just use tap water.

Thanks for putting up with my questions, I was learning on the fly...never good
 

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strictly

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I have come full circle for anyone trying to follow In my footsteps...

GLYCOSHELL LONGLIFE is silicate, borate and NAP free. It is OAT, it is red. The following all contain BASF glysantin g30 (comma xstream g30, halfords g30, valvoline zerex G30). Paraflu Up is the same but I've not looked into whether it actually contains BASF glysantin 30). The BASF G30 is ferrari approved after 2010 and maserati recommend but no date.

GLYCOSHELL contains reduced silicate and is a hybrid (HOAT). It is also NAP free, i did not look at the borate. It is blue green, based on a link in a post above...the factory shell bottles were just BASF glysantin G48, as is comma xstream G48 and valvoline zerex g48. If you Google them they all look the same blue green colour, but they all say BASF on the bottles.

Then there is G05, which others seem to love.

the owners manual does state either glycoshell or glycoshell longlife.

The workshop manual shows blue green fluid, Matt uses blue green, my car is blue green, so I am going G48 for this year one day I might try the G30 or G05. To be clear the glycoshell/G48 is a HOAT not an OAT.

As far as I can further read mixing HOAT and OAT is not great...so do a full flush if you change type
 

Zep

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Well that’s clear then. And they say the internet is a confusing place.

I’m putting an OAT MEG coolant to CUNA 956-16 in my car (but only in the coolant tank, I use something else for the screen wash bottle and the petrol tank). :)
 

strictly

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Well that’s clear then. And they say the internet is a confusing place.

I’m putting an OAT MEG coolant to CUNA 956-16 in my car (but only in the coolant tank, I use something else for the screen wash bottle and the petrol tank). :)
Lol indeed!
 

modelT

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153
I used Shell Longlife with OAT, it is red which I liked as it matches with the red cam covers…

I used deionised water mainly because I live in a very hard water area where you have to wipe down the shower after every use (that combined with my natural inclination to laziness has implications on my hygiene).
 

strictly

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I used Shell Longlife with OAT, it is red which I liked as it matches with the red cam covers…

I used deionised water mainly because I live in a very hard water area where you have to wipe down the shower after every use (that combined with my natural inclination to laziness has implications on my hygiene).
I think that is good, and good to know. Fair reasoning. OAT/G30 is all gravey from what I can read.

I will add a little more as unfortunately for you guys the OCD in me also keeps me reading, so what I have since learnt, is G48 contains 2-EHA which eu regulations are now restricting, and while it is still easy to get hold off...for example halfords and GSF are not selling comma xstream G48 [BASF Glysantin G48] (but opie oils still does for example).

My gut therefore says G48 coolants will be phased out or restricted to 20 to 200L and essentially that brings G48 users to G30 or G05 in the future. Or G40 or G64 as the new alternative....but G64 contains phosphates which i thought we didn't want in the first place...

If anyone is still awake 2-EHA looks to be a plastizer and there are reports of coolant containing it having problems with silicone seals and plastics, but clearly not a problem for maserati/ferrari, or we would know buy now.

Final bit maserati life and ferrari chat there is a lot of talk about G05 which has nitrites for protection of the wet liners resulting from cavitation. I'm guessing we would know by now if cavitation was creating holes in the wet liners of the F136. Or maybe time will tell.

In any case, it's all a bit nerdy and I am just writing what I have learned to date, I'm sure what ever goes in will be fine, just with an interim flush if types is changed.

I will over the next couple of years follow the subject, for now I'm just going to change the coolant!
 
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lifes2short

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5,930
trying to decipher coolant tech is a right headfeck and you can overthink it and drive you potty, I've been using Ford Super Plus Premium on all the motors not just Ford for many years, now been superseded by Ford POAT
 

strictly

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300
trying to decipher coolant tech is a right headfeck and you can overthink it and drive you potty, I've been using Ford Super Plus Premium on all the motors not just Ford for many years, now been superseded by Ford POAT
I agree totally my head is spinning, on the subject of POAT, presumably this is with the phosphates re added. Do we know why the phosphates were removed in the first place? Was it environmental or corrosion to aluminium related?

Again presumably the POATs have other additives that then work with the phosphates.

Like you said it's a headfeck. Clearly i need to learn some more, which i will endeavour to do over time
 

midlifecrisis

Mancunian
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17,173
I used Shell Longlife with OAT, it is red which I liked as it matches with the red cam covers…

I used deionised water mainly because I live in a very hard water area where you have to wipe down the shower after every use (that combined with my natural inclination to laziness has implications on my hygiene).
May I recommend you Wet n forget Shower cleaner. It's really good at getting rid of limescale smears on your shower glass. And it smells nice, vanilla. But don't lick the glass afterwards...
 

CatmanV2

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51,781
May I recommend you Wet n forget Shower cleaner. It's really good at getting rid of limescale smears on your shower glass. And it smells nice, vanilla. But don't lick the glass afterwards...
It is cracking stuff. The patio / decking cleaner is equally good

C
 

Diavolo Nero

Member
Messages
153
Quite a timely topic for me as I need to top up coolant but it's blue and I have had a job of work finding blue OAT. So it's getting topped up with distilled and a full change when the weather is better. As a point of order is there a conclusion that G48 is good to go as it's what I use in the merc so I have enough concentrate to conduct a swap.
 

strictly

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300
There you go, you've heard it from Matt who knows his stuff, so get the triple qx blue and leave it at that. It would have been nice if their documention stated if it was HOAT or OAT and or NAP free, along with or without silicates...but it dosent, so forget about it!

For me personally I've got another couple of months before i do this job so I'm interested to follow the G05 debate in particular to some more.

I did, just for fun try and find a glycoshell longlife in blue but could not, I could only find glycoshell itself in blue, which contains silicates and is a hybrid. At least so the shell documention states.

If I uncover anything of interest, I will share it.