Changing my door lock tomorrow , any advice ?

Spartacus

Member
Messages
3,185
Got to change my passenger door lock on my 4200 tomorrow , are there any tips before i start ? i already have the door panel off .

it just looks like a pain as the window runners look to be in the way ?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,778
Runners are not in the way. It's just fiddly.

Check the new push rod holders are the correct diameter. I had to swap mine from the old lock as there was no way it was going to fit.

Best of luck

C
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
changed mine last year, there isn't much room but is quite easy.

I thought the worst part was removing the door card but you've done this already!
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,854
Take some photos please...I have a hunch mine is not registered as closed and thats why I am having window drop issues...there is a micro switch in there...some where!
 

Spartacus

Member
Messages
3,185
changed mine last year, there isn't much room but is quite easy.

I thought the worst part was removing the door card but you've done this already!

i take it that you un bolt it from the outside of the door end , remove the control rods and then refit the control rods to the new lock and re bolt to the door ?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,778
i take it that you un bolt it from the outside of the door end , remove the control rods and then refit the control rods to the new lock and re bolt to the door ?

BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA

No :)

The rods don't fit like that, although you *might* be able to disconnect at the remote end, I confess I didn't try that.

I loosened the lock, unclipped the rods, then took the lock out.

To put it back I put one bolt in loose to support the lock, the reattached the rods (dental mirrors and rat's teeth forceps are quite useful)

There may be a better way :)

C
 

EnzoMC

Member
Messages
1,999
BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA

No :)

The rods don't fit like that, although you *might* be able to disconnect at the remote end, I confess I didn't try that.

I loosened the lock, unclipped the rods, then took the lock out.

To put it back I put one bolt in loose to support the lock, the reattached the rods (dental mirrors and rat's teeth forceps are quite useful)

There may be a better way :)

C

changed mine last year, there isn't much room but is quite easy.

I thought the worst part was removing the door card but you've done this already!


seems i may have the lock/unlock issue, its happened just a few times but want to get it fixed before it gets worse.

passenage side is fine and works great, no battery drain, no water in foot well (it never really sees rain).

I can't seem to work out how to remove the lock / unclick the rods without breaking the clips.?
 
Last edited:

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,398
seems i may have the lock/unlock issue, its happened just a few times but want to get it fixed before it gets worse.

passenage side is fine and works great, no battery drain, no water in foot well (it never really sees rain).

I can't seem to work out how to remove the lock / unclick the rods without breaking the clips.?

It has been a while but you can move the window to a position to give less obstruction with the lift mechanism.

Also I remember unbolting it from the door first to move it a bit, then giving better access to the rods and connector etc
 

EnzoMC

Member
Messages
1,999
thank you both for response guys... lock and door handle out :) only one clip broke but now see how its done so will take some pics and post up
 

Lozzer

Member
Messages
2,285
Hardest part when I did it was re-connecting the rod for the exterior door handle, it was tight as f*, luckily there is a hole in the door panel you can put a screwdriver/rod through to push it home.
 

EnzoMC

Member
Messages
1,999
whilst I'm waiting on parts to arrive and with the door panel off - I'm going to clean the window rails and re-grease
any suggestion on which grease to use ? a few roogle search suggest hi-temp silicone or white lithium ?
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,630
Yes, Lithium on the metal scissor action, 3in1 silicone spray on the rubbers and channel guides. The silicone makes a massive difference.
 

EnzoMC

Member
Messages
1,999
below is a ruff outline for replacing door lock on GS (should be similar for 4200s / 3200s)

I didn't switch the battery off but its always recommended when working on electrical items.
normal disclaimer - both SM and I are not responsible for any damage or issues caused by using this information below.


1 - with windows full up, remove door card (see other thread on this).

2 - peel back foam cover being careful not to rip - this is held on with soft sealant paste.

3 - remove connectors(5) from bottom of lock

EMC_door_02.jpg
(numbered in order or install)


EMC_door_04.jpg

4 - with lever tool, POP out bar(4) from barrel lock - this is stiff and may take some pressure to remove

EMC_door_01.jpg


5 - with lever tool or screwdriver push plastic clip up on rod(3), this should now pop out


EMC_door_08.jpg

EMC_door_07.jpg
EMC_door_06.jpg

6 - remove lock screws on door

EMC_door_11.jpg

7 - easy part with the lock now free, rod(2) should now just pull out

8 - with rod/wire(1) push this down through the gap, this should now be free to pop out

EMC_door_02b.jpg
EMC_door_05.jpg

9 - the lock should now be free to remove behind the windows rail.



10 - order replacement lock - right(67294800) left (67294900)
in case you snap the barrel lock clip, its been replaced by 3 parts (1x 38400390 and 2x 53451352)





install in reverse and test after connecting the power(5)

plus items to finish off
1 - I used some loctite 248 on the lock screws

optional - whilst doorcard is off I also cleaned and re-greased the window rails/gear and lubricated the clips for rod(1) and rod(3)

2 - clean off old paste then with small line of sealant paste reapply foam cover


job done :)
 
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