BLIND, FOOLISH IMPULSE PURCHASE OF A 4200 - the update thread
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jasst
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This is what I get, except when I clear the codes my cel goes out, I'm putting it down to secondary lambda being in the wrong place as I have no primary cats, but both lambdas still in original position.
breezer
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I may not have given it enough time to lose the cel. I’ll retest again next week. I got a bit nervous so took another car away this weekend.
Zep
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breezer
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Crikey, this oil change is taking longer than I though. It was **** trying to very carefully remove the old oil pipe and remains difficult to get the new split nut on! I had to take a break to go clay pigeon shooting to take my stress out.
Mind you, very glad I made the change - the picture shows how bad it was!
I also took the opportunity to de-sticky the steering wheel cowel, to paint the red stripes on the tridents, and while the underbody was off to ensure that my bonnet badge wasn’t bolted down so I can replace it easily at will.
I still need to flush my brake fluid, then hopefully that’s the service and repair work done for now.
Next up will be beyond my ken - checking all bushes and if nothing needs replacing getting the alignment done.
Mind you, very glad I made the change - the picture shows how bad it was!
I also took the opportunity to de-sticky the steering wheel cowel, to paint the red stripes on the tridents, and while the underbody was off to ensure that my bonnet badge wasn’t bolted down so I can replace it easily at will.
I still need to flush my brake fluid, then hopefully that’s the service and repair work done for now.
Next up will be beyond my ken - checking all bushes and if nothing needs replacing getting the alignment done.
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breezer
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Do you know how tightly I should torque the Split nut? I feel like “extremely” is about right, but I’m aware everything in the vicinity is aluminium!
hashluck
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The latter
CatmanV2
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Zep
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When I did this I applied some medium thread sealer and then went fairly tight. Wait a few hours for the sealer to go off before filling with oil and you are sorted.
hashluck
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breezer
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Yay! A new problem.
The front and rear windscreen seals have gone “frilly”!
I assume they were so dry that the frost any cold temp has caused them to shrink.
Various windscreen chains have told me they can only do glad, not seals. I have no idea how they reinstall glass without seals, but there you go.
Any clues where to get new ones?
Thanks!
The front and rear windscreen seals have gone “frilly”!
I assume they were so dry that the frost any cold temp has caused them to shrink.
Various windscreen chains have told me they can only do glad, not seals. I have no idea how they reinstall glass without seals, but there you go.
Any clues where to get new ones?
Thanks!
2b1ask1
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No need to replace seals (rubber ones), if they are split or torn, glue the parts together with Permabond 2050 (a flexible superglue formulated specifically for rubbers), then invest in a bottle of this: https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zymol-seal-conditioner The bottle will last you a lifetime, it is a little bizarre, the first time you apply it it will just sit on the surface for a few hours, wipe off the excess then repeat every couple of weeks and future applications will get absorbed ever more quickly. It restores all the natural moisture in the rubber and genuinely will recover even the most damaged rubber to full size over a few months. I personally recovered an original bumper rubber on a 1964 Porsche 911 that had lost over 40mm on each end so that it was back to full size in about 4 months! I can assure you the owner was beyond amazed as the car was a concours multiple winner.