Any reputable motor factor will have one of a good quality like Gates.
Got mine off the shelf in Weston super Mare for less than 15 pounds when I did my oil/water pump just give them the numbers off the old one.
Thanks for this write up......really good and very useful. Just changed my belt this morning. About 90 mins once I got my plan and brain together.
For anyone's info I didn't take any fan assembly down and didn't touch it. I took the MAF and throttle body out and jacked the car up so did a combination of working above and below. Got a 15mm socket on the tensioner pully and levered it up with a length of wood to the floor from under the car. With a bit of levergae and a few packers I got it up as much as I could without excessive tension and gave just enough slack to slip the new one on nicely.
Another job down. Brakes next I think. Don't fancy doing the cam cover gaskets today....maybe I'll try that on Tuesday. Can work at night now the car is in the workshop
Just replaced mine in 45 min without pulling off any parts or loosening any fasteners. Use a 15mm 6 point on a 3/8 ratchet on the tensioner. Slide a breaker bar on the ratchet handle to reduce effort. Pull the belt off the top idler, remove the ratchet and then pull the belt off of the crank pulley. There is a tight fit between pulleys and pipes on the driver's side, but the belt can be squeezed past and removed. Put the new belt around crank first and rout it around driver's side pulleys using a long screwdriver (and skinny arms) to fiddle the belt into the tight space behind the pipes and under the large idler. Make sure the belt grooves are aligned and use the ratchet/breaker bar on the tensioner to slide the belt over the top pulley.
Yes, the skinny right arm has to fit between fan pack and engine when reaching across from the passenger's side under the air flow meter to the pulleys on the driver's side. Hope the fan pack removal was not too hard!