4200 REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR BUSH QUICK FIX.

Geo

Member
Messages
133
#1
This is an easy way of eliminating play in anti roll bar rubber bushes. When the bushes wear, the reinforced material that the bush is lined with wears away, so this fix will not last as long as replacing with new bushes. My car is a toy and I don't do many miles each year, so it will be interesting to see how long they last


The Fix: approximately 40 minutes per side (if nothing is seized).

First you will have to make two shims 25mm x 35mm x 3mm. I used aluminium alloy, but any non-compressible material will do.

Raise the car safely to allow access, I rented a two pillar lift.

Slacken the two 13mm headed screws that secure the curved bush retaining clamp. Only have slacken them enough to allow the shim to be slipped underneath the rubber bush. On my car that was when the end of the screws were level with the captive nuts.

Using long nose pliers slide the shim under the rubber bush, the 35mm length is in line with the roll bar and the 25mm side across it. Ensure that the shim is perfectly aligned under the rubber to ensure the clamp does not catch it when the screws are tightened.

Tighten the screws completely, this will allow the shim to compress the bush into the clamp and grip the bar. Because the rubber is compliant, and totally contained by the clamp, you get total contact of the rubber on the bar.

Repeat on other side.


Tools required:

Standard length 13mm combination spanner.
Short length 13mm combination spanner.
Long nose pliers.

I rented ramp time, but it could be done by jacking up and securing on axle stands.
 
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MC_Bob

Junior Member
Messages
47
#2
Considering how long the bushes last, and they're relatively inexpensive, why wouldn't you replace?
You may experience squeaking since the bush is now not uniformally clamped around evenly.
 

Geo

Member
Messages
133
#4
How about poly bushes, roll bar mounts are a perfect place for these!

Dave
Totally agree Dave. When I do get around to replacing them poly bushes would be my choice if they are available.


Considering how long the bushes last, and they're relatively inexpensive, why wouldn't you replace?
You may experience squeaking since the bush is now not uniformally clamped around evenly.
You're correct Bob, new bushes are not expensive, but a complete pain in the ***** to fit in situ and a big job if you drop the subframe assembly.

I checked and there is total contact between the rubber and the bar. As I alluded to rubber is relatively fluid and moves into place due to all round constraint. There is no rattle or squeak when driving.
 
Messages
3,821
#5
Totally agree Dave. When I do get around to replacing them poly bushes would be my choice if they are available.




You're correct Bob, new bushes are not expensive, but a complete pain in the ***** to fit in situ and a big job if you drop the subframe assembly.

I checked and there is total contact between the rubber and the bar. As I alluded to rubber is relatively fluid and moves into place due to all round constraint. There is no rattle or squeak when driving.[/QUOTE

I heard FS in the USA are re manufacturing 3200 and 4200 standard size front and rear roll bar bushes in polyurethane..

Dave
 
Messages
1,094
#8
When poly bushes dry out they creek do not put them on the rear arb as access is difficult. I'm replacing mine this winter with performance hardened rubber bushes, not polyurethane
 

Geo

Member
Messages
133
#9
When poly bushes dry out they creek do not put them on the rear arb as access is difficult. I'm replacing mine this winter with performance hardened rubber bushes, not polyurethane
Interesting. Where do you get these?
 

TimR

Member
Messages
433
#10
Can anyone say what the bushes are made from as supplied with the Larini ARB kits, at all...?

Also, has no one tried using a dry lube on noisy bushes...?
Graphite, teflon, silicon maybe.. If it's a "dry" car, wouldnt that suffice...?
 
Messages
1,094
#11
Interesting. Where do you get these?
They are widely available online but pending more research - I need to find out the diameter of the standard ARB on the 4200. My car was on a lift yesterday getting a PS leak sorted I was also under it but totally forgot to measure the dimension doh

Can anyone say what the bushes are made from as supplied with the Larini ARB kits, at all...?

Also, has no one tried using a dry lube on noisy bushes...?
Graphite, teflon, silicon maybe.. If it's a "dry" car, wouldnt that suffice...?
The FD "sway bars" come with poly bushes, there is some information here from Craig Watermans upgrade on this part, includes discussion on the FD kit, 3200 ARB diameter but not 4200... https://www.sportsmaserati.co.uk/in...-front-rear-upgraded-sway-bar-bushings.20376/

Edit: photos on Craig's blog http://craig-waterman.com/?p=597

The bigger bracket should be pretty easy to get fabricated locally by my local Jedi welder
 
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TimR

Member
Messages
433
#12
Mmm ...Larini ! Oops.:p

edit :
Is that the front subframe says needs dropping to change out ARB too..?
Rears are often talked about. The front ARB swap ..dont think I've ever seen it mentioned...
 
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Messages
1,094
#13
No just the rear, front is super easy as i mentioned elsewhere I am going to drop mine to get it re-finished, new drop links and up rate these bushes.

For the rear it is beyond me so I need some help I might ask for it to be done during the service in a few months. Other elements that need the rear subframe lowered are handbrake cables and brake lines I will get the lot done in one go
 
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TimR

Member
Messages
433
#14
I know what you mean....Im trying to find the solution to drop the gearbox & transaxle myself. I mean, without making the task just way harder than it needs to be for lack of appropriate access.
Not somewhere I want to go....o_O
 

Gp79

Junior Member
Messages
809
#15
I saw a receipt in my history file for roll bar re-shim but this is what I found - insulation tape wedged in, a well respected indie as well!
No shims anywhere else either

A good temporary fix though if done as you describe as the access is a right pain
 

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