4200 - Having trouble getting the transaxle reconnected to the torque tube

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Hi All

After my recent replacement of the EV1 pipe I'm now trying to reconnect the gearbox to the torque tube. They're about 2cm apart.

Although everything seems lined up they just don't seem to want to reconnect. I thought it might have been because the prop shaft was out of line with the gearbox. It was in neutral, but I've now put it in gear so I can turn the internal gears by turning one disc - but it seems to have made no difference. (I've locked one wheel to do this).

Has anyone had this issue? Suggestions please?
 

midlifecrisis

Member
Messages
16,102
Sounds like a job for @masertel. If anyone knows how's to pull these things apart and put them back together quickly it's Terry. With a week to go for Le Mans his back axle was still on the floor.. With the car in the air
 

masertel

Member
Messages
102
Hi All

After my recent replacement of the EV1 pipe I'm now trying to reconnect the gearbox to the torque tube. They're about 2cm apart.

Although everything seems lined up they just don't seem to want to reconnect. I thought it might have been because the prop shaft was out of line with the gearbox. It was in neutral, but I've now put it in gear so I can turn the internal gears by turning one disc - but it seems to have made no difference. (I've locked one wheel to do this).

Has anyone had this issue? Suggestions please?
Hi GraemeA.

As Midlife has alluded- for my sins I've had the pleasure of fitting a 4200 gearbox along with a couple of clutch replacements. These jobs have been carried out on the manual box so there may be a slight variation to the process with the CC Box.

With the car on a lift and the gearbox supported on an hydraulic gearbox stand I also found it difficult to mate the box to the torque tube as the splines have to be in perfect alignment in order to mate. To overcome this I removed the torque tube from the clutch housing leaving it completely free from the car and then with the help of my son perfectly aligned the torque tube splines with that of the gearbox. You will have to firmly push the torque tube onto the gearbox but don't be tempted to use a hammer as damage to the spline could occur. To help thing along you can now gently rotated the splines back and forth from the end of the tube that mates with the clutch housing. Once the tube is mated to the box tighten up the nuts to stop it coming apart.

At this stage the gearbox and rear sub-frame should be resting on the hydraulic stand (stand needs to be on wheels to allow moving the gearbox back and forward) with the torque tube supported by another stand placed close to the end that mates with the clutch housing. It's important to alter the angle of the engine and clutch housing to allow the torque tube to be aligned. To do this I put a bottle jack on top of a support and placed it under the front of the engine where the oil drain plug is and jacked up the front of the engine by a few cm which results in the rear of the engine and clutch housing dropping a few cm. With the engine at this angle it is possible with the help of a friend to push the gearbox/torque tube assembly onto the clutch housing provided the tube and splines are all in perfect alignment. It can be a little tricky but with the torque tube perfectly lined up to the clutch housing and someone pushing the gearbox/torque tube the spines when aligned correctly will slip onto the clutch housing. Once connected tighten up the nuts to secure the tube to the clutch housing, remove the bottle jack at the front of the engine and then pump up the hydraulic stand to manoeuvre the gearbox/sub-frame into position.

After all that the rest is relatively easy but time consuming as you refit the exhaust etc etc.

Hope this helps - if not feel free to give me a call and I will do my best to talk you through it.

All the best,

Terry
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Hi Terry

Thanks for your detailed reply. So it appears the alignment is absolutely critical. I'll spend some more time on trying in the current position first, as I'm not keen on disconnecting the torque tube from the clutch end as well. I'd hoped it might be a little easier.

Cheers

Graeme
 

masertel

Member
Messages
102
Hi Terry

Thanks for your detailed reply. So it appears the alignment is absolutely critical. I'll spend some more time on trying in the current position first, as I'm not keen on disconnecting the torque tube from the clutch end as well. I'd hoped it might be a little easier.

Cheers

Graeme

No Problem Graeme.

It should be doable at the gearbox end but for some reason it seemed to mate easier at the clutch end. It will help for sure if you jack up the front of the engine a few cm as doing so will angle the torque tube down to make it easier to align with the gearbox.

God luck,

Terry
 

GraemeA

Member
Messages
108
Hi All

Well it was bear, but I managed to get it together by myself.

So with the car up on axle stands and the transaxle axle/gearbox on jacks front and rear. I did not touch the engine side at all.

I used some springy rope round around the back of the rear axle oil pan and through the convenient holes in the suspension subframe and put some tension on it, to bring the torque tube and gearbox together, trying to align them as much as possible using the jacks. I reattached the half shafts to the diff and then put the gearbox in gear so, that while locking the brake on one side with a screwdriver, I could rotate the other brake disk by inserting another screwdriver. Then the diff pinion could be turned under the rope tension against the prop shaft splines. After a bit of toing and froing it eventually engaged and the gearbox bolts engaged slightly in their holes in the torque tube.

From there I removed the springy rope and used a turnbuckle with some plastic coated wire rope (left over garage door stuff) around the oil pan on the diff back to the handbrake cable mount on the torque tube (it's heavy duty). Winding the turnbuckle then pulled the gearbox and torque tube together enough to enable me to put the nuts on bolts and bring them finally together.

Now I just have to reassemble everything:
Handbrake pivot mechanism
Re-attach gearbox oil cooler
Boot (trunk) heat shield
Re-fit exhaust central section and connect to tail pipes
Then re-install boot floor and put the wheels back on.

Shouldn't take 5 minutes :^)