4200 Facelift Reverse Lever Assembly

dgmx5

Member
Messages
1,142
Car is in for servicing with Voicey. I knew the mechanism was wobbly and as Hills are near to where I work, I bought an RL-01 and screw hoping that would sort it out.

Unfortuanaely Voicey has had it out and the usual weak point, the lever, is fine but the block casting is broken.

Any suggestions other than a new assembly at £700? Anyone know of one going for sale at a less stratospheric price? It is the clip in rather than bolt in version.

@Crofty also had to replace the assembly only a couple of years ago. Photos attached of the damage.

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jasst

Member
Messages
2,316
Exactly what mine has done, I got one from sopranostu waiting to go in, but as a temp I have managed to glue it back together, which has held for a while.
 

dgmx5

Member
Messages
1,142
Thanks for the replies. Myself and @jaast have the same issue and I do not think mine will be repairable like his was.

I will try the usual sources but if anyone knows of an assembly from a facelift car that is in poor cosmetic condition or which does not have working switches/electronics going cheap let me know.

I just need the casting of the gate to be ok and I think I might be able to change that over.

TIA, David
 

Mr S

Member
Messages
821
Strange one, but could you not get one done through rapid prototype/ additive manufactured?
Would be cheaper than buying a replacement surely
 

dgmx5

Member
Messages
1,142
Strange one, but could you not get one done through rapid prototype/ additive manufactured?
Would be cheaper than buying a replacement surely

Thanks for the suggestion @Mr S . I finally have contacted Alistair Pugh at A2P2 Specialist Reverse Engineering (www.a2p2.co.uk ) and this was his reply:

"If we were to go the whole hog and laser scan and cad up the replacement part, this would be good for producing multiple parts in reasonable volume for satisfying the potential spares market. More cost up front, but leads to a lower component price.

However if you just wanted a one off fix for your car then we could approach it in different way by using my machining guy to knock a part up based on the sample. I would imagine it would be a couple of hundred £ at the most.
"

@jasst and @atreyu1 may have had similar issues, but I doubt there is enough market to justify producing this part in 'reasonable volume'.

I also contacted Hill Engineering about getting a new 'gate' machined up that could then be affixed to the plate, but they didn't have an appetite for it.

To help clarify what is missing following the break of the leg of the 'gate', I attach the following photos. First, we have @voicey pointing at the broken part:

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Second we have my crappy drawing in red of the piece that has broken off. The other leg on the opposite side of the gate was also broken. Note the hex screw sitting in the 'T-bar' and the absence of brass grommets suggests that this assembly had been previously fitted with the uprated Hill Engineering RL-01 reverse lever. The original reverse lever is usually the weakest part and the round protusions on the outside of the reverse lever (marked below in blue) are what usually shear off. The Hill part seems to be so strong that when an over zealous mechanic (not Voicey I hasten to add) or employee has tried to put the car into reverse, the gate has given way instead of the lever:

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Finally, here is a photograph of an intact gate with an original lever in situ with the brass grommet I referred to above:

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Gazcw

Member
Messages
7,757
Thanks for the replies. Myself and @jaast have the same issue and I do not think mine will be repairable like his was.

I will try the usual sources but if anyone knows of an assembly from a facelift car that is in poor cosmetic condition or which does not have working switches/electronics going cheap let me know.

I just need the casting of the gate to be ok and I think I might be able to change that over.

TIA, David
Try TVR Glen he was breaking a 53 I think it was.
 
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dgmx5

Member
Messages
1,142
Mine is a facelift with the pull out plate rather than the screw in although looking at the videos he has posted it may be a black pull out plate. I thought the pre-facelift was screw in.

I remember watching the Copart auction and TVRGlen paid £7,500 plus fees back in June 2018.

Non-runner, unrecorded car bought by a seller with a dubious history if you believe the various threads about him and his aliases on Pistonheads. Not surprised no one wanted it from him, but always a shame to see a med blu go to waste.

I called him to see what he wants for the part but he is only selling the interior complete. Good luck with that.
 
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Navcorr

Member
Messages
3,839
I thought the pre-facelift was screw in.
Changed after '02 but have seen plenty of '03 onwards with the push down.
Would think it worth trying to fix the broken post before splurging out. Perhaps drilling and pinning would add a bit of rigidity - maybe adding a little material to the sides if possible. Like a leg brace.
 

dgmx5

Member
Messages
1,142
@jasst has been able to supply me with a unit which has an intact gate, thanks James.

It turns out the gate is all part of the oval plate as a single casting. I will take plenty of photos and hopefully I'll be able to get measurements of the gate which will allow me to repair my existing plate at some point in the future.

Meanwhile, the plate that @jasst has sent me will need to be repainted. The oval Maserati mark is held in place by a pin that goes through the plate and it's secured with a backing plate a bit like a pin badge. That was easily removed and appears to be metal and could do with a polish. The Auto and Slippery Road buttons came out easily as well.

Removing the lever is proving a bit more problematic and I will probably have to resort to cutting it out as described in the ricambi instructions for the 355 (https://www.ricambiamerica.com/guides/rl01-installation-in-f355).

That will then leave me with just the plate which needs a respray. Looking at the plate itself it looks as though the piece was originally dipped given the colour is on both the front and reverse sides and a little way up the sides of the gate. The only snag is that the reverse and drive symbols which are illuminated need to be removed. I might be able to tape these over before spraying but I would prefer to remove first.

This seems to be a plastic strip which is slid under one of the legs of the gate and then riveted at both ends.

In order to remove this does anyone have have any suggestions as to the best way to do that? Below are a couple of photos of the reverse of the plate showing the strip which appears to be white plastic painted with black and then the symbols laser etched in. I am a bit concerned about removing the strip without scratching the face.

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dgmx5

Member
Messages
1,142
So I had to cut the reverse lever off and I have removed the buttons, leaving me with just the plate that needs to be repainted. The problem is the "1/D R" strip is riveted in place. I either try and clean and tape it in situ before spraying or, ideally, I am able to remove the strip first. Question is how and, if I do remove it, how would I re-attach it afterwards? Photos below of the 'naked' plate. Hopefully, one of the more practical among you like @2b1ask1, @philw696 or @conaero might have a suggestion.

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Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,230
They put that together in an interesting way didn’t they. The metal looks fairly thick there, I would be tempted to drill them as Catman says and then either tap it and use a short screw. Or a pin and some epoxy adhesive.
 
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