3200 rear shock absorber

babel 101

Junior Member
Messages
253
It is the left front actuator. But I think maybe it is some electrical connection of the actuator
 

77GR

Junior Member
Messages
76
If you suspect electrical then it's worth trying to clean the connection itself - both the one at the suspect actuator and the connection at the ECU. Try and find some aerosol "switch cleaner" such as https://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-7...gateway&sprefix=switch+cleaner,aps,154&sr=8-3 which I have used with a lot of success. Just unplug the connector spray both parts and put it back together. It's an easy and cheap fix and good stuff to have lying around. The connector is the most vulnerable electrical part as it more exposed than the internal parts.
 

RSM Masser

Member
Messages
2,437
When the ignition is turned on, each adjuster rotates fully in one direction and then the other to check that the adjusters are working and the shock absorbers themselves are able to turn and respond. If any of the 4 units refuse to comply then the error message appears.

What is happening is that one of the shock absorbers or (more likely) the adjusters is sticking and as you say when it is warm it is enough to free it up. A dealer or a good independant can plug into the diagnostics (OBD on later cars SD2 on earlier) and determine which corner is the culprit, even if the error isn't showing at the time because it remembers. I had something similar and bought some time by removing the adjusters and spraying the mechanisms in WD-40.

That used to happen with mine - then after a while it stayed on full time as the adjuster gave up the ghost.
 

babel 101

Junior Member
Messages
253
[QUOTE = "77GR, post: 694934, miembro: 8399"]
Si sospecha que es eléctrico, entonces vale la pena intentar limpiar la conexión, tanto la del actuador sospechoso como la conexión de la ECU. Trate de encontrar algún "limpiador de interruptores" de aerosol, como https://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-701-100UK-Super-10/dp/B000KEB6WW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32E5MOQXK1EHB&keywords=switch+cleaner+spray&qid = 1557478359 & s = gateway & sprefix = switch + cleaner, aps, 154 & sr = 8-3 que he usado con mucho éxito. Simplemente desenchufe el conector, rocíe ambas partes y vuelva a armarlo. Es una solución fácil y barata y es bueno tenerlo por ahí. El conector es la parte eléctrica más vulnerable, ya que está más expuesta que las partes internas.
[/CITAR]
Okayy!!!!!!!
 

babel 101

Junior Member
Messages
253
[QUOTE = "RSM Masser, post: 694941, miembro: 635"]
Eso solía suceder con el mío; luego, después de un tiempo, permaneció a tiempo completo cuando el ajustador abandonó al fantasma.
[/CITAR]
[QUOTE = "RSM Masser, post: 694941, miembro: 635"]
Eso solía suceder con el mío; luego, después de un tiempo, permaneció a tiempo completo cuando el ajustador abandonó al fantasma.
[/CITAR]
Ok RSM
 

haydenh

New Member
Messages
1
Hello from Covid-free New Zealand. Hope someone can help me with my 2000 3200 GT rear shock issue. One is leaking and local shock service says it can't be rebuilt. Eurospares say the shock is obsolete (and offer no alternative. Let's assume it's non-electronic any ideas where a replacement might be found new or second hand? Also struggling to get access to the right 3-pin scanner for the ABS ECU which is in error code mode.
Hayden
 

Twinspark

Member
Messages
460
Hello from Covid-free New Zealand. Hope someone can help me with my 2000 3200 GT rear shock issue. One is leaking and local shock service says it can't be rebuilt. Eurospares say the shock is obsolete (and offer no alternative. Let's assume it's non-electronic any ideas where a replacement might be found new or second hand? Also struggling to get access to the right 3-pin scanner for the ABS ECU which is in error code mode.
Hayden
The 4200 units without skyhook might fit, but worst case scenario you can just drop $3k (USD) for a set of coilovers.

 

Rex B

Member
Messages
657
Thanks for advice
David Askew already quoted me and I am pleasantly surprised.
I am not too daunted at the dismantling task it’s just another job I could do without
The 4200 units without skyhook might fit, but worst case scenario you can just drop $3k (USD) for a set of coilovers.

Hello from Covid-free New Zealand. Hope someone can help me with my 2000 3200 GT rear shock issue. One is leaking and local shock service says it can't be rebuilt. Eurospares say the shock is obsolete (and offer no alternative. Let's assume it's non-electronic any ideas where a replacement might be found new or second hand? Also struggling to get access to the right 3-pin scanner for the ABS ECU which is in error code mode.
Hayden
hi
Have a look on UK eBay there are some new units for sale and also some 2nd hand units. You could also send them to David Askew and have it rebuilt. Regarding ABS unit l think the only init that can read faults on this the Maserati SD2 so a main dealer will have one of these and units are expensive, best of luck.
 

williamsmix

Member
Messages
545
Nice one Ian, thanks for putting that out..
Regarding the replacement of the left hand rear damper assembly on a 3200, its a absolute b.stard of a job, and trying to re fit the boot trim correctly takes forever!

Dave

Just reading this old thread with interest as I may need to remove my left rear shocker. What exactly is the difficulty on the left side of the 3200, is it to do with boot interior access to the top or something else? Any advice appreciated …
 

RichTaps

Member
Messages
199
Just reading this old thread with interest as I may need to remove my left rear shocker. What exactly is the difficulty on the left side of the 3200, is it to do with boot interior access to the top or something else? Any advice appreciated …
I'm not sure there is a particular difficulty with the left side in my experience. Both sides are a pain, simply because of the lack of access, lack of visibility, and the need for small childlike hands and smaller sized spanners\wrenches due to the lack of space.

The right side was worse for me - the fuel filler gets in the way! I've managed both without removing the fuel tank, it's just a bit of a pain. From memory a wobble socket on a small ratchet is the way forward.

Rich
 

williamsmix

Member
Messages
545
This thread has been very helpful to me so I thought I'd enhance it with a few pictures. I completed this job today without too much difficulty. Access down the left hand side of the fuel tank wasn't too bad, I could at least see the actuator! The four nuts came off with the help of some penetrating oil and I didn't drop the wire clip. I did have to do all of that by feel as it is nearly impossible to get both hands down the side and do anything useful with both of them! A small ratchet with a short extension bar did the trick. The shocker needed a smack to get it off the lower joint.

I swapped over the old spring and all the top end gear onto another used shock absorber and at this point I noticed how badly twisted and damaged the lower joint was on the old shocker. Whoever did the last installation - in 2007 at a well known Maserati dealer - clearly didn't set up the upper assembly with the correct 12 degree SX offset. To get this right I decompressed the spring before installing the assembly back on the car, so I could easily rotate the top and get it correctly aligned in situ.

Took it out for a test drive and I'm amazed at the difference. Where the car was feeling a bit too light and slightly unpredictable on the back end it now feels really planted, particularly in Sport mode. Result!

Actuator.jpgAssembly.jpgLower Joint.jpg
 

williamsmix

Member
Messages
545
Please could you explain in regards your comments on 12 degree offset? I was under the impression the top Mount can only be orientated one of 2 ways?!

It’s covered in the service manual … Yes, they can be orientated for left (SX) or right (DX). It’s actually 11 degrees 12 minutes that’s specified, which is fine if you have a precision means of setting that up.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    89.6 KB · Views: 15
Last edited:

RSM Masser

Member
Messages
2,437
This thread has been very helpful to me so I thought I'd enhance it with a few pictures. I completed this job today without too much difficulty. Access down the left hand side of the fuel tank wasn't too bad, I could at least see the actuator! The four nuts came off with the help of some penetrating oil and I didn't drop the wire clip. I did have to do all of that by feel as it is nearly impossible to get both hands down the side and do anything useful with both of them! A small ratchet with a short extension bar did the trick. The shocker needed a smack to get it off the lower joint.

I swapped over the old spring and all the top end gear onto another used shock absorber and at this point I noticed how badly twisted and damaged the lower joint was on the old shocker. Whoever did the last installation - in 2007 at a well known Maserati dealer - clearly didn't set up the upper assembly with the correct 12 degree SX offset. To get this right I decompressed the spring before installing the assembly back on the car, so I could easily rotate the top and get it correctly aligned in situ.

Took it out for a test drive and I'm amazed at the difference. Where the car was feeling a bit too light and slightly unpredictable on the back end it now feels really planted, particularly in Sport mode. Result!

View attachment 114883View attachment 114884View attachment 114885
Never knew about the 12 degrees
But assuming the arrows are direction of travel have you got the flat side of the cap facing 90 degrees out?
Sorry but I don’t follow what should be oreintated at 12 degrees - my rear shocks are on the workbench in the garage ready to go on
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5978.jpeg
    IMG_5978.jpeg
    407.1 KB · Views: 1

williamsmix

Member
Messages
545
Never knew about the 12 degrees
But assuming the arrows are direction of travel have you got the flat side of the cap facing 90 degrees out?
Sorry but I don’t follow what should be oreintated at 12 degrees - my rear shocks are on the workbench in the garage ready to go on

It’s the plate with the 4 studs in that has to be correctly angled to pick up the 4 holes in the top of the wheel arch, otherwise the shocker won’t align with the bottom bolt. If you clamp up the spring so the top assembly is free to move when you put the shocker on the car it’s easy to align everything, top and bottom. When you’ve got it in position with the 4 nuts on the top and pushed on to the bottom stud you can take the spring clamps off. This avoids the need to try and set it at the angle required before putting it on the car, which would really need a jig to get it right.