3200 idle adjustment!

RodTungsten

RodTungsten

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New Autel AP200 - cleared a couple of stored codes and now a CEL triggered by P1225 -accel pot 2 below min threshold. Car still drives fine. Seen elsewhere that this can be fixed by adjusting the accelerator start position. This may increase the idle speed?

Is it possible to lower the idle rpm independent of the pedal setting as there is already quite a jerk going from N to D/R as it is?
 
RodTungsten said:
New Autel AP200 - cleared a couple of stored codes and now a CEL triggered by P1225 -accel pot 2 below min threshold. Car still drives fine. Seen elsewhere that this can be fixed by adjusting the accelerator start position. This may increase the idle speed?

Is it possible to lower the idle rpm independent of the pedal setting as there is already quite a jerk going from N to D/R as it is?
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Did you do the pedal reset procedure? I didn't think you could adjust the idle.
 
Oneball said:
I don’t think you can adjust the idle speed either.

I wonder if you have a vacuum leak????
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I had a pin hole in the atmospheric, which can also be under slight vacuum I believe, return line to the tank which caused erratic idle on mine.
 
allandwf said:
, but I suppose the gauges could all read slightly differently also.
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The gauge in the dash is off, mine at abt. 100 RPM too high. Use the ODB reader to get an accurate RPM.

You cannot adjust idle RPM. Pedalpot malfunction may increase RPM. Measure voltage and compare to 0 throttle expected value.
philw696 said:
Carry out a smoke test
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Other possible cause of high idle RPM.
 
The butterfly in the throttle body is partially open at idle. A good diagnostic tool will measure the gap. I forget what it should be, but it's not much. I suppose you could eyeball it by removing the inlet hose.
 
Idle is not affected by the pedal sensor. The ECU checks the pedal sensor is at the calibrated voltage for idle if it is great, of not ECU will ignore the pedal sensor and start the car with no throttle control. So moving the pedal sensor will just make it fail. If you move it and recalibrate it same result the idle is controlled by the ECU, and its a fixed demand on the throttle body via CANBUS. The idle speed according to the workshop manual should be 950 rpm with the engine warm. If this problem of elevated idle speed is something that has been happening gradually then its probably an air/vacuum leak into the intake plenum, which will elevate the idle. This can be caused by - plenum cover screws coming loose, kaiser valve one way valves leaking, hoses around the plenum loose or cracked, the two one way valves leaking. If it has always idled high then its possible the throttle body is not set up right, and has never been. I know now the original throttle body on my 2001 car was not right out of the factory.
 
I think I remember reading in the manual the car ECU does some sort of auto calibration where it recalibrates the throttle at least everytime at start up, it assumes the throttle is not depressed.

There is a statement on pot drift when that can happen and that requires to relearn the end values of the pot.

Not sure what happens if the pot is out of idle limits from the getgo and you blip the throttle a bit. Might be the car assumes you depress it a little, especially if both contacts are bridged i.e. car see identical values on both inputs.

Measure it to be sure. Top of mind it should be at 350-500 mV when not depressed and 10 fold at WOT but don't quote me on that.
 
Plenty to go on here, thanks. Warm idle is 1000rpm. I have found the pedal adjuster so I will set the pedal up a bit and do a re-learn.

Another Q to you 3200 people: there is a small green LED near the central ash tray and *** lighter. Nothing I can see in the manual about it. What does it signal?
 
RodTungsten said:
Plenty to go on here, thanks. Warm idle is 1000rpm. I have found the pedal adjuster so I will set the pedal up a bit and do a re-learn.

Another Q to you 3200 people: there is a small green LED near the central ash tray and *** lighter. Nothing I can see in the manual about it. What does it signal?
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Nothing other than the location i think .
 
James3200GTA said:
I think I remember reading in the manual the car ECU does some sort of auto calibration where it recalibrates the throttle at least everytime at start up, it assumes the throttle is not depressed.

There is a statement on pot drift when that can happen and that requires to relearn the end values of the pot.

Not sure what happens if the pot is out of idle limits from the getgo and you blip the throttle a bit. Might be the car assumes you depress it a little, especially if both contacts are bridged i.e. car see identical values on both inputs.

Measure it to be sure. Top of mind it should be at 350-500 mV when not depressed and 10 fold at WOT but don't quote me on that.
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Ok pedal sensor voltages should be 0.35-0.65 at idle and 2.9 to 3.7v at full throttle (see attached from workshop manual)
The ECU will adjust the calibration of the full throttle voltage as it goes along if you don't use it. If the ECU does not see the full throttle voltage for a certain length of time it reduces the full throttle voltage. and it keeps doing this until it sees the voltage. SO if you don't give is some herbs for a while the pedal response becomes progressively more sensitive. The calibration procedure removes all of this auto-adjustment.
The green light is a multicolour LED and it indicates the alarm condition. Green means its ok to start and Red means it not ok to start (disabled). Sadly there is another state which is orange (Very Italian) and i am not sure what that means, it seems to start in this condition, so it means "maybe" :)
 

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Started the 3200 to move out of workshop =CEL and limp mode!
2 active codes now: P0225 & P1225 - both pots below min. Found the throttle idle stop and wound it out about 1 turn.
On again and codes are now stored - no longer active.
Cleared them and did a pedal re-learn. No CEL and sensible throttle. Good job I that bought that AP200!
 
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