Gransport rear tie rod replacement

JonW

Member
Messages
3,259
I commissioned a set of 40 back in 2014, they have all gone so I'm ordering another 20 from a local engineer, should have them Friday and just need to get them BZP treated to match OEM. The advantage of new sockets means as has been indicated above, you can (after measuring twice!) cut the old tie rod and use a monster nut gun to drive the whole socket out with the end of the tie rod still in it thereby reducing the break free forces needed by at least half. I sell them at cost and will know what this is when they are ready.

Hi Newton - I’d be interested in these as well please if you have any that are not already taken...
 

TimR

Member
Messages
2,654
After all the work Ive been putting in on the Skyhook and suspension,I am disappointed to relate that the tie rod parts I bought through Larini , one has failed inside 6 months and 3K miles....! :(
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,220
Hi Newton any news on the sockets?

Yes they are at the plating works and I’ll get them early next week (11th), only got 20 made in this batch so get in quick people. They will fit any rear tie rods on the 3200/4200/GS/MCV models.
 

Hexadex

Member
Messages
827
Yes they are at the plating works and I’ll get them early next week (11th), only got 20 made in this batch so get in quick people. They will fit any rear tie rods on the 3200/4200/GS/MCV models.
Brilliant I’ve got the GS up on the lift, going to set about removing the old ones.
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,220
Will do Phil, Hexadex; measure many times before you remove! Set a point on the bast of the wishbone next to the tie rod and measure to the centre of the outer stud in the hub. This will let you get it near enough when reinstalling. Then off to a laser alignment as soon as possible. I found the only way to get them out of the 4200 was to cut them 40mm out from the socket head and then use a big nut gun to free the lock nut and then the socket, no way was the tie rod shifting anywhere, I actually ended up welding nuts on the end of the tie rod with it in the vice I was able then to heat it cherry red and drive it out with the nut gun but I only did it as I needed a pattern for the sockets. If you feel you need heat on the wishbone, be extremely careful and really I’d advise against if all day long.

the nut gun I use is a Makita 450kn 1/2” intended for lorry wheel nuts!
 

TimR

Member
Messages
2,654
Id also avoid cutting them at all costs because they can be re-furbished *
I did one recently and got it to within 1 minute of what I was aiming for- So it was not adjusted, only checked...
They still charged me £127.00 for what is, I dunno, half an hours work faffing about..?!!( Yes, Ive seen this process up close and personal & have a decent understanding of whats involved....)
If it's just toe you need checking, which is all you'll be disturbing with the control arm replacement, ATS or similar will do it for @£37.00.
Wish I'd asked first - I still feel violated now....! o_O

* If the rubber boots/environment seals are still intact....
 

2b1ask1

Special case
Messages
20,220
Well this afternoon did not go as planned! Brake and disk off the drivers side and then looked to take the tie rod out, nothing, nadda not a nut would budge on it! So it looks like it will be cut as expected. Tried to take the nut of the outer end and ended up extracting the stud from the ball joint! Bu99er! Given it best for fear of frustration leading me to break something expensive!!!
 

Gp79

Member
Messages
1,393
Well this afternoon did not go as planned! Brake and disk off the drivers side and then looked to take the tie rod out, nothing, nadda not a nut would budge on it! So it looks like it will be cut as expected. Tried to take the nut of the outer end and ended up extracting the stud from the ball joint! Bu99er! Given it best for fear of frustration leading me to break something expensive!!!

they are such a pain, I could undo the locking nuts easily enough but the socket / bolt needed a lot of heat and soaking for days to get shifted with a breaker bar. I had the wishbone removed to free it up.

I think the dissimilar metals and corrosion are the cause.
 

philw696

Member
Messages
25,113
Think the dissimilar metals and corrosion are the cause.
Spot on.
Over the years the problems with getting alloy wheels of steel hubs due to rust and corrosion.
Used to use the Marine white grease in the end due to the main issue caused by salt on the roads.