Recent content by RJ237

The ethylene glycol would likely do just that.

I guess that means I'm lucky my glove box light doesn't work.

I don't know what the duty and shipping would be, but I bought mine from coolairparts.com in Texas and it's been working fine for several years.

The contact points inside the relay could be somewhat burned and it would still test okay.

On US cars it's possible to remove the compressor by removing the screws from the heat shield and bending it out of the way. Still a difficult process to get at all of the fasteners, and replacing is not easy either, especially without a lift.

They used a couple of different compressors on the 4200. Mine has a 9mm hex cap screw, but I think the other has a circlip. They can be replaced without removing the compressor, but it's very difficult to hold the clutch while removing the screw without a special tool for the type I have...

E10 is the common fuel here in the states and has been for years. The only pump issues I recall are from cracks in the caps.

The seals on the doors decompose and turn gummy. Cycling between heating and cooling every week or so reduces the chance of them sticking.

You could just change the motor, pumps are quite robust.

I'm using a BMW relay BMW (Original OE) 61361393403

You said the gearbox oil has been changed, but have you checked the fluid level in the F1 reservoir?

I used velcro straps on my Spyder.

Does the oil pressure drop to about 2 bar at idle with the engine warm, or does it stay at 5 bar? If it doesn't drop that indicates failed sender. Thermostats often stick open or open too early when they need replacement.

Must be.

No cable, that would be too easy.