Left stranded for the first time

merak1974

merak1974

Junior Member
Messages
94
For the first time in my 5 year long ownership of a 1999 3200 GT, I was unable to start it.

Key info:

  • Every thing seems to be ok mechanically, checked fuses, and plenty of fuel.
  • Alarm and locks are playing games. I cannot lock using the key (changed key batteries today, to be able to rule that possibility out). I can lock the car by using the key mechanically on the passenger side, but not by using the key on the driver side.
  • On some, but only some, starting attempts, the CEL and Code lights stay on, asking for the emergency procedure (code digits). I performed the emergency procedure on several of those occasions, seemingly successfully since the CEL flashed a few times at the end, as it should (according to the instruction manual). However, the engine does not ignite.
  • On some attempts, all lights on the instrument panel disappear as they should, but engine does not ignite.

Your advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 
Oneball

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,110
Try and rule the immobiliser out, if you split the key there’s a little black rectangular thingy in there. Pop it out and leave it in the house. Then try and start the car and see if the symptoms are the same.

The other thing I’d consider is the crank sensor if it turns and doesn’t start.
 
merak1974

merak1974

Junior Member
Messages
94
Oneball said:
Try and rule the immobiliser out, if you split the key there’s a little black rectangular thingy in there. Pop it out and leave it in the house. Then try and start the car and see if the symptoms are the same.

The other thing I’d consider is the crank sensor if it turns and doesn’t start.
Click to expand...

Du you mean that minuscule little thing that the key button presses on?

BTW: Kan I use the spare key or the red key as part of such diagnostics?
 
Oneball

Oneball

Member
Messages
11,110
Here’s the chip.


70916

Have you tried the spare key?

I’m not 100% sure but I think the red key has no immobiliser chip so shouldn’t be able to start the car.
 
merak1974

merak1974

Junior Member
Messages
94
Oneball said:
Here’s the chip.


View attachment 70916

Have you tried the spare key?

I’m not 100% sure but I think the red key has no immobiliser chip so shouldn’t be able to start the car.
Click to expand...

I will try the spare key tomorrow. Car is in the garage at my work place. Lock down is over where I live, so I thought it would be fun to drive there for once... not.
 
merak1974

merak1974

Junior Member
Messages
94
I parked the car with the battery charger on. Hopefully enough to crank over tomorrow... I will, obviously, get a new battery though.
 
E

elephant4009

Junior Member
Messages
52
Yup. Anything other than a super shiny battery & mine doesn't want to know.
A few years ago I had the terrible battery clamps replaced with nice solid ones from a lorry. I also had a neatly installed battery isolation switch fitted. If I'm not using the car the next day I always now isolate. Made a big difference for me.
 
alfatwo

alfatwo

Member
Messages
5,517
Not sure if 99 model year cars had battery cut off switches fitted as standard, all the later cars have them
You have to switch them off, even for a couple of days or so if the cars being standing
Trouble is every time you do this the engine ECU reverts back to the basic engine run mode
It takes about 100 miles for the ECU to relearn and to produce full HP

They are a couple of tricks though!

Dave
 
E

elephant4009

Junior Member
Messages
52
Mine just had a knurled knob on the battery terminal which if you unscrewed it a bit isolated the battery. Don't know whether it was standard but it was terrible.
 
E

elephant4009

Junior Member
Messages
52
Oh & didn't know about the horsepower thing. Still, with the way mine handles, anything over 150 BHP is probably too much. Anyway, if I want a car that works properly, I'll take the 4200 out.
 
conaero

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,626
Seen this a few times on 3200's, if the battery is good, sitting in the car, lock, unlock and try again. This is obviously an immobiliser pick up issue.

Check the alarm armed indicator on the dash is not illuminated and the padlock symbol is not showing either.
 
merak1974

merak1974

Junior Member
Messages
94
Battery was dead this morning even though I had the tender on overnight. So, a new battery went in, and voilà - started immediately. So many thanks for the advice!

However, I still have issues with the locks. I cannot lock remotely with the key; one can hear it locks, but then unlocks. But, I can lock the car by using the key mechanically on the passenger side, but not by using the key on the driver side.

Any ideas?
 
CatmanV2

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,735
Far more likely to be the door unit. Lost count of how many we've seen. In this case the passenger side fails to close engage, the central locking system detects this and unlocks again.

When using the key in the passenger lock the mechanical assistance (turning the key) helps the solenoid make it all the way and voila.

Replace the passenger door lock. Cheap, bit fiddly, >99.999% sure it'll be fixed.

<edit: Final test. Use the key in the driver's side. Pounds to pence it'll bounce open again>

C
 
merak1974

merak1974

Junior Member
Messages
94
CatmanV2 said:
Far more likely to be the door unit. Lost count of how many we've seen. In this case the passenger side fails to close engage, the central locking system detects this and unlocks again.

When using the key in the passenger lock the mechanical assistance (turning the key) helps the solenoid make it all the way and voila.

Replace the passenger door lock. Cheap, bit fiddly, >99.999% sure it'll be fixed.

<edit: Final test. Use the key in the driver's side. Pounds to pence it'll bounce open again>

C
Click to expand...

It "passed" indeed the final test. If I use the key on the driver's side, it unlocks...
 
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