GT - Sat Nav stuck on Maserati logo when it's cold

The CD read speed is probably slower than the write speed of an SSD so doubt there is much benefit there. However I bet it would speed up the encoding bit. Might also be quicker to search and be more responsive to switch tracks/playlists etc.

MAF would love a big yellow banana on his screen!

Well, it seems in my messing around trying different drives I've broken the IDE ribbon cable, the CD drive nor the hard drive spins up now, though the unit still turns on. Using a multimeter I've got continuity between the CD ZIF connector and the IDE connector, but not between the IDE connector and the motherboard.

I've found a company that can supply a spare, for €100! Annoying as it must be a 20p part, anyone know of any other potential sources?

Can you post some pictures of cable.

rockits said:

Can you post some pictures of cable.

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From the markings it seems to be a custom cable, turns out the units are also used in Peugeots, interesting thread here

So can you get a cheaper Peugeot unit, or use a generic cable?

Looks like we're on a winner here

C

There is a good chance that the ribbon cable has broken going into the MB connector. They can be fixed. If you have enough play on the cable to move the MB connector up the ribbon a bit.

CatmanV2 said:

So can you get a cheaper Peugeot unit, or use a generic cable?

Looks like we're on a winner here

C

Click to expand...

You seem to be able to get them for a £2-300 or so, cheaper to get the cable separately, presuming that is my current issue. Could be useful for other spare parts people needed in the future though

spkennyuk said:

There is a good chance that the ribbon cable has broken going into the MB connector. They can be fixed. If you have enough play on the cable to move the MB connector up the ribbon a bit.

Click to expand...

I've attached a few more photos, to be honest I'm struggling with the continuity checking, the connectors are very small! Some pins seem to be working, others not. As for moving it there is a little room but I wouldn't know where to start!

Personal experience is that trying to repair the cable is a route to pain and suffering. See if you can get a new one


C

Hi FerrersWay

Many thanks for getting this far. I have now removed my head unit and disassembled the hard drive and cable.

I have done this because my music tracks on the HDD (via Jukebox) were jumping, and my satnav occasionally rebooted. A sure sign the HDD is struggling.

My recommendation to you (if you still suspect you've damaged the flex cable) is to reflow all the solder joints.

This is daunting as the pitch looks like it's only about 0.8mm, however, it is possible with a temperature-controlled soldering station and fine soldering iron tip.

To me the solder joints on the HDD connector look fragile and it is these that should be reflowed. This is assuming you haven't spotted any rips in the flex.

If you feel uneasy at all about doing this yourself, I can have a go for you if you send me the flex.

So I have now removed my hard drive and plugged it into my W10 PC and taken an image.

I used Clonezilla Live (http://www.clonezilla.org/clonezilla-live.php) to create the image, and then burn the image to a new 60GB PATA hard drive I bought off Ebay for £8.

I have reinstalled the new hard drive into the head unit and all is well.

Note that during the cloning process, I did notice that the original HDD was very noisy. This would explain the poor tracking performance.

I didn't bother to re-size partitions on the new hard drive as I wanted to see if this would work at all first. But that would be a logical thing to do using W7 or W10 partitioning tools.

So I have a HDD image available if anyone needs/wants it. It has my sh1t on it (one Daft Punk album, and sat nav destinations, etc) which you can clean up. It also has only the 2008/09 sat nav stuff.

Lessons learnt: Be careful when you install a new Pata HDD - the original has the male connector proud of the casing. If you buy a HDD that has the connector shrouded by the hard drive metalwork, the metalwork will make contact with the hard drive connector on the flex cable. If this is the case, add a strip of Kapton tape along the edge of the new HDD shroud to insulate it.

I'm attaching a load of photos to help anyone else who wants to try this.

Next steps:
1. I have ordered a 32GB CF card and Pata adapter off Ebay and intend on trying to load the HDD image to the CF card and install it in the 2.5" HDD space in the head unit. This should eliminate any fragilities associated with the HDD.
2. I need to somehow load a later version of the sat nav - 2011 or better? - any help with this appreciated.

cheers
Dave

Kudos Dave! I'd have taken it back and got the dealer to sort it!

A Great thread! Did you try changing the splash screen or maybe put a bigger HDD in?

Jeez Moz your deep in it there well done.

Superb work

C

FerrersWay said:

You seem to be able to get them for a £2-300 or so, cheaper to get the cable separately, presuming that is my current issue. Could be useful for other spare parts people needed in the future though



I've attached a few more photos, to be honest I'm struggling with the continuity checking, the connectors are very small! Some pins seem to be working, others not. As for moving it there is a little room but I wouldn't know where to start!

View attachment 39365View attachment 39366View attachment 39367View attachment 39368

Click to expand...

If you look at the 3rd picture. Just to the right of the number 50 there looks to be a chip in the white connector and it seems to be sitting up at that point. That may be where the break is.

The fact that neither the cd or hdd are now getting power suggests the break is either the socket on the board or the first connector to the board on the ribbon cable.

There is a place in bradford that specialises in this type of stuff. Wheeler dealers used them in the audi TT episode iirc.

You could try a standard cable from the board to the cd rom or hdd and if they power up you know its the cable. If they dont its the socket on the board.

If its the board connection then a good Pc repair place should be able to reflow the solder joints. There are a few electronic gurus on here that may be able to do it for you as well.

Great work, glad to hear it's worked for you! I've also got a CF card with adapter it seems like a good way to go.

I've stumped up for a replacement cable which should be with me towards the tail end of next week, so I spent some time with the old cable yesterday seeing if I could find the break, one of the wider copper tracks goes between two holes and seems to have broken after being repeatedly bent whilst trying different drives. I'm guessing as it is wider they are carrying the power, I don't think it's repairable after my messing around with it

Anyone feeling brave and want to try the image from my drive or Moz' in their unit? If it works then hopefully we can save other people from an expensive bill in the future if they don't manage to get an image off their drive before it dies

FerrersWay said:

Anyone feeling brave and want to try the image from my drive or Moz' in their unit? If it works then hopefully we can save other people from an expensive bill in the future if they don't manage to get an image off their drive before it dies

Click to expand...

I would. Not sure when though. Can you pop in on a CF for me? Happy to pay of course.

C

Hedge your bets? Who thinks it is open or who thinks each unit is coded to the software? I reckon open and that one image works on another.

Contigo said:

Hedge your bets? Who thinks it is open or who thinks each unit is coded to the software? I reckon open and that one image works on another.

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I reckon the same. I can't see them having invested in that (any) level of protection. Although it's Bluapunkt, so maybe *they* did.

Either way, we can test it

C

Even at £300 for a new cable its still a darn sight cheaper than new unit at around £4k or something silly like that.

Fair play you guys never cease to amaze me.
Well done Dave.