GT - Sat Nav stuck on Maserati logo when it's cold

Contigo

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Have you got a normal drive you can dump the image on? Just to check it's not corrupted?

C

I've put the original back in for now which was just slow. Image ain't corrupt mate it is identical to the one on the original.
 

Contigo

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Erm, you don't actually *know* that, but it's the likely option, I'll grant you

C

At a guess seeing at Moz has the same cloning software and SSD devices as me and is running into the same symptoms when using the Zheino SSD then I'd put good money on a compatibility issue.
 

Moz1000

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I think the jumper thing is a red herring. I believe laptop HDDs are Master by default (with no jumpers). If Ferrers has been successful with the Zheino drive, then it's something you and I are doing Phil. So here's another idea. I wonder if the NIT relies on the drive's case as a ground. The PATA HDD has it's mounting points bare metal, whereas on the SSD they are all anodised - and anodising is an insulator. Ferrers may have just broken through the anodising which is why his works.
Moz
 

Contigo

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I think the jumper thing is a red herring. I believe laptop HDDs are Master by default (with no jumpers). If Ferrers has been successful with the Zheino drive, then it's something you and I are doing Phil. So here's another idea. I wonder if the NIT relies on the drive's case as a ground. The PATA HDD has it's mounting points bare metal, whereas on the SSD they are all anodised - and anodising is an insulator. Ferrers may have just broken through the anodising which is why his works.
Moz

The thought did occur to me too about the case GND
 

drewf

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I suspect the case grounding is also a red herring.

Do the drives have the same geometry as the original? (Cylinders, sectors, sector size)

I suspect the firmware in the NIT will only read a particular configuration correctly, as there's no need for compatibility with any other drives.
 

Contigo

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I suspect the case grounding is also a red herring.

Do the drives have the same geometry as the original? (Cylinders, sectors, sector size)

I suspect the firmware in the NIT will only read a particular configuration correctly, as there's no need for compatibility with any other drives.

Clonezilla sets them identical.
 

drewf

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Did you create an image to restore, or clone dd?

Any command line switches at all?
 

Contigo

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Did you create an image to restore, or clone dd?

Any command line switches at all?

Image to restore, used it on another HDD for a month without any issues until the cold snap. Just cannot get this PATA SSD working and until we hear from Ferrer's it is anyones guess.
 

drewf

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Have you aligned the SSD? I'm not sure that Clonezilla supports SSD auto-alignment.

If I was you, I'd look at testing a different piece of cloning software. Clonezilla is great, but there are plenty of instances of failure to clone with that, and success with others (particularly with SSDs), and similarly in reverse, where CZ has worked in place of another that failed. It's quick and easy enough to try something else.
 

Contigo

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Have you aligned the SSD? I'm not sure that Clonezilla supports SSD auto-alignment.

If I was you, I'd look at testing a different piece of cloning software. Clonezilla is great, but there are plenty of instances of failure to clone with that, and success with others (particularly with SSDs), and similarly in reverse, where CZ has worked in place of another that failed. It's quick and easy enough to try something else.

Clonezilla now is restoring the selected disk image to 1st disk (sda). The job is done by restoring:
MBR (by dd), and Boot loader (by grub)
Partition table (by sfdisk).
Data on every partition or LV (logical volume) (by partimage, ntfsclone, partclone or dd. It depends on the image of each partition or LV.)
 

rockits

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We use our own paid for (and expensive!) IT Editions of ShadowProtect & NetJapan software for imaging. However we do use some free tools on occasion that work really well in addition. Mini Tool Partition Wizard being one. There is a free Windows application and also you can create a bootable off-line ISO as well.
 

FerrersWay

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So the issue is that the ribbon on the NIT covers the jumpers. The OEM hard drive is a little unusual:

OEM Drive:
Jumper on = Slave
Jumper off = Master

Most other drives:
Jumper on = Master
Jumper off = Slave

The NIT ribbon cable is acting as a jumper, turning the OEM drive into the slave drive. When you connect to the SSD it is having the opposite effect, making the SSD master and stopping the unit from booting.

I just snapped the two pins off the SSD, making it permanently a slave drive, it still works in my USB caddy and also in the car.

@CatmanV2 Are you still interested in testing? I know its been an age, if you are I will send it today
 

Contigo

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So the issue is that the ribbon on the NIT covers the jumpers. The OEM hard drive is a little unusual:

OEM Drive:
Jumper on = Slave
Jumper off = Master

Most other drives:
Jumper on = Master
Jumper off = Slave

The NIT ribbon cable is acting as a jumper, turning the OEM drive into the slave drive. When you connect to the SSD it is having the opposite effect, making the SSD master and stopping the unit from booting.

I just snapped the two pins off the SSD, making it permanently a slave drive, it still works in my USB caddy and also in the car.

@CatmanV2 Are you still interested in testing? I know its been an age, if you are I will send it today

When you say snapped them off, you mean you snapped off the two pairs of pins at the end which had the jumper on?
 

FerrersWay

Junior Member
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When you say snapped them off, you mean you snapped off the two pairs of pins at the end which had the jumper on?

Just the very end pair, I doubt snapping both pairs off would hurt though. The metal is soft so be careful not to bend the normal pins in the process!
 

Contigo

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Just the very end pair, I doubt snapping both pairs off would hurt though. The metal is soft so be careful not to bend the normal pins in the process!

I don't understand how that is not the same as not having a jumper connected!
 

FerrersWay

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I don't understand how that is not the same as not having a jumper connected!

When you connect the NIT cable, it connects the two pins together, meaning that you do effectively have the jumper connected. Hence needing to remove the pins so the NIT cable is unable to connect them together