Leaky Boot

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
Not using V8chimp's thread, as it had sort of drifted to F1 relays :)

Snow is useful for something. Have identified that I water coming in on the left of the boot via
1) The aerial
2) Flexible conduit linking the boot and tailgate.
3) *Maybe* the rear most hinge bolt.

On the right hand side, there is also evidence of entry, but rather less clear where from. Meltwater has pooled in the trim securing slot nearest the battery negative. The only place I cant think of it's coming from is hing bolts, as there is nothing to indicate that it's leaking *down* from anywhere else, unless it's behind the battery, and damned if I can see anything that would permit water entry on that wing (petrol filler still needs checking! Sudden thought!)

So that leaves me with:
1) RH hingebolts
2) Petrol filler
3) It's actually coming in from the left and soaking over. I'm not convinced about this as I can see where the water from the left has seeped under the insulation and has migrated around the spare wheel well to the cable duct at about 2pm on the clock face of the well. However, there's no obvious way it can get from there into the trim slot and under the batter tray.

Thanks for listening

C
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
Heh! Well the aerial is £90, so I shall be investigating sealants, and new sound deadening I think.

But probably not until the weather improves a tad :)

C
 

tonym3

Junior Member
Messages
225
Just found this thread, looks like I have the same issue with water in the boot, I intend to get it in my garage over the weekend strip down the boot interior to dry properly then start searching for all the areas it could come in.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
Just found this thread, looks like I have the same issue with water in the boot, I intend to get it in my garage over the weekend strip down the boot interior to dry properly then start searching for all the areas it could come in.

I'll be able to show you all mine on Sunday. My liner will still be out :)

C
 

v8chimp

New Member
Messages
70
Heh! Well the aerial is £90, so I shall be investigating sealants, and new sound deadening I think.

But probably not until the weather improves a tad :)

C

I found Sikaflex 221 to do the job very well, it is used by manufacturers to seal things like Caravans.

Definitely more a dry weather adventure though!
 

v8chimp

New Member
Messages
70
Just found this thread, looks like I have the same issue with water in the boot, I intend to get it in my garage over the weekend strip down the boot interior to dry properly then start searching for all the areas it could come in.

Tony, might be worth having a look here if you want a little break down of how things start to look as you pull it apart (get back to my thread! ha)

http://www.sportsmaserati.co.uk/showthread.php/9402-How-to-remove-boot-trim-from-sides-and-back
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
v8, the tube of sikaflex is ready to go :)

Looking at the forecast for the weekend, however, it may all get shelved. I was going to do the remote boot release, but it's not a job I want to start unless I am sure I can finish.

Even plugging the leaks may not be feasible as the min application temperature for Sikflex 221 is 5C and it's not likely to reach that.

Next weekend is mostly busy :(

C
 

v8chimp

New Member
Messages
70
v8, the tube of sikaflex is ready to go :)

Looking at the forecast for the weekend, however, it may all get shelved. I was going to do the remote boot release, but it's not a job I want to start unless I am sure I can finish.

Even plugging the leaks may not be feasible as the min application temperature for Sikflex 221 is 5C and it's not likely to reach that.

Next weekend is mostly busy :(

C

Good man! certainly the time where you start wishing for more garage space and a couple of garage heaters.

If it has survived to date, it will survive a couple more weeks. Though I know the frustration!
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
Oh yeah, it's fine really. Just the sound dampening getting wet.

I'm going to have to lift the driver's side carpet and sound deadening as well, as I can still feel dampness there, and still get misting, but now only in the bottom right of the screen and on the driver's window.

I *think* it's just residual coolant from the matrix, but need to be sure.

C
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
Update: I had a chance to work on this over the weekend while I was finishing the remote opener.

Frank the areas I sealed:

conduit.jpg

You can see at the 12 o'clock position that either on initial installation or subsequent install, the conduit was not correctly seated. This has allowed water to seep in, along the cable that feeds the boot solenoid and number plate lamps.

If your lining is out, it can be felt here, labelled in yellow.

conduitleak.jpg

Labelled in green we have where the water was apparent that was leaking via the antenna mount (don't know if this is applicable to your model)

I used (as per V8 Chimp's recommendation) Sikaflex 221. This cures via reaction to atmospheric moisture, has a minimum recommended application temperature of 5C (cold air is drier) and comes in black and white.

Latex gloves are recommended. No seriously, I mean it.

For the conduit, I removed the rubber and cleaned all the surfaces with methylated spirit. I then applied a large blob of sikaflex onto some plastic sheet, then used a cocktail stick to apply a moderately thick amount of sealant to the mating surfaces of the rubber conduit. The conduit was then re-inserted. The visible kink has been there too long to allow the rubber to mould back, so I applied further sealant to the rubber / steel surface. It doesn't look *that* neat, but needs must. It can be smoothed with a latex gloved (ooer) finger, but it's mostly sticky.

For the antenna:
The cables for the antenna exit via the 'bolt' that protrudes from the base. This bolt is hollow, and additionally has a slot cut in it so the cables exit at 90 degrees after passing through the body. There is a 22mm nut on the bolt, with a clever sleeve that prevents the cables from being crushed.

My nut and bolt were pretty corroded. Access was hard, and 22mm sockets tend to come with quite large handles. I couldn't get an extension bar past one of the boot structures, so eventually managed to get the nut off by using the socket parallel to the ground, pointing towards the front of the car, in the wing. Take care. I had visions of the socket slipping and me denting the outer wing from the inside :(

You may also need to hold the antenna firmly while getting the nut off.

Once off, the antenna can be withdrawn upwards without disconnecting the cables (see note later). There is a rubber seal at the base of the plastic antenna mount, wich had perished white badly. This only goes on one way, so make a note of it. I removed the seal, and cleaned all surfaces (and the wing) with methylated spirit again. Having let it dry, I used the cocktail stick method to apply sealant around the lip of the seal in which the antenna sits (sorry no photos, but sealant covered hands and EOS cameras don't mix, and I had no assistant). Having refitted the seal to the antenna and cleaned up a bit (tissue soaked in methylated spirit works well, but take it easy, you don't want to dilute the sealant) I then applied sealant to the base of the antenna and the seal unit. This seals simply by compression to the wing, so I wanted enough that when I refitted the unit, I had sealant squeeze out all around the base.

I quick dab of copper grease was applied to the mounting bolt to help prevent further corrosion.

I dropped the antenna back through its hole, in the correct(ish) alignment, and carefully re-attached the nut (it has a tongue which may make things trickier) after having applied copper grease to the threads of the nut as well.

Doing the nut up was not too bad, but the antenna unit will again need holding as it's now lubricated by a film of sealant.

Clean up with paper and methylated spirits got rid of the excess, and then it was left to start the cure. I'd advise not doing the nut up *too* tight initially, and then revisiting after as long as possible. Any excessive vibration or movement during curing isn't going to help make a good seal.

As for the cables. Since I did this, I *seem* to have lost some FM radio sensitivity. The variable nature of this (Heart SX is fine, Radio 4 bloody awful) leads me to suspect this is atmospheric issues rather than my doing, although I'll keep an eye on it. I had similar reception issues on the Alfa GT.

There appears to be no earthing via the wing or body of the antenna so I assume that one of the three cables must be an earth. Equally I think it's safe to assume that the application of sealant should not have had an impact as the original rubber seal prevented base <> metal contact *and* the wing is painted. The connections from antenna into main wiring loom would probably do with cleaning as they have been clearly subjected to some years of moisture exposure and if the condition of the securing nut / bolt is anything to go by will be quite corroded :)

Any questions, as ever, give me a shout :)

Tools:
Sikaflex 221
Selant gun
cocktail sticks / toothpicks / matchsticks
latex gloves
22mm socket and ratchet or ring.
copper grease

C
 

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Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Cman.......you could turn out to be yet another hero of the forum....well done and many thanks!


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Parisien

Moderator
Messages
34,927
Watching the latest Wheeler dealer show, they did an Aston Martin DB7 with wet floors, they used a great little smoke machine device to show likely leakage areas, turned out to be a door seal..........


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CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,906
Hmm, I realised that I uploaded the old version of the picture, but now I can't get rid of it :)

Still, it's the least I can do. Hopefully there will be more How-To's but hopefully not on the leaky boot. I'm almost *wishing* it would rain so I can test it :)

Over the last couple of days the aircon has been on full auto, and no significant misting at all. Had the rear window on for about 5 minutes last night, but nothing else. :)

Boot feels bone dry.

I hope the next installment will be a Parrot install. I think I've figured out how to get the A-pillar trim off, and access to the NIT looks rather easier following the workshop manual than one of the other instructions I saw, but we shall see :D

I hope I've not missed the DB7 Wheeler Dealers? I've recorded the SLK one, but didn't seen any previous.

C