Auxilliary drive belt change 4200

JAGPURR

New Member
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91
AUXILLIARY DRIVE BELT CHANGE ON MASERATI 4200
Having purchased an auxiliary drive belt as part of a service kit last year, which included an air filter, oil filter and belt for £70 from euro-spares, saving about £30 on buying these separately. I thought it about time it was fitted. The belt should be inspected at each service and replaced at least every three years. The job took 4 hrs from driving into the garage to driving out, and I spent a lot of time messing around with the camera and note pad, to say nothing of coffee drinking and biscuit dunking.
It was one of those jobs that only takes about 10 minutes to do but a couple of hours to get at it and a couple of hours more to replace those bits you removed. This procedure would need to be followed for a number of jobs. I.E. changing the Alternator, Steering pump, Air conditioning compressor and any noisy pulleys, therefore if you need to do any of these jobs you should do the belt at the same time.

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These are the tools I used and you will need a similar arrangement. Various cross head drivers, medium flat driver, side cutters, pincers or similar, 10mm & 8mm sockets or spanners and a 15mm ring spanner.

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Remove all the engine plastic covers, 10 screws if they are all present.

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You will need to unclip the bonnet stays to get the side covers off so just do one at a time and replace it, otherwise you will get a rather heavy bonnet on your head.

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Next we need to remove the front underskirt. Jack up the car so the wheels are about 6 inches off the floor. Remove three screws at the bottom front of each wheel arch. Using a stubby or angled driver, if these screws have not been out for a long time you may need to remove the wheel to get a better purchase. Mine have been out before and have been replaced with stainless steel screws.

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Three screws toward the engine sump; these were 10mm but not sure if the original ones were cross head.

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About twelve screws around the front bumper, again if they are all there.

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Now you can see the job in hand from underneath and the bad cracking of the old belt. If you have a pit or car lift and the hands of a 10 year old it is possible that you could do the job from here, but I wouldn’t recommend it, especially if you like the present look of your knuckles.

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Looking from above there is virtually no access either so we have to create some.

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It’s a good idea to protect the front of your car from zippers and buttons etc. You can get fancy proper rubber covers especially made for this task but I have resorted to the old faithful curtain and two large magnets to hold it in place. Cloths and large magnets are quite handy for makeshift protection of bodywork unless you own an alloy Bentley or maybe a fibreglass Lotus, or Reliant Robin!

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Firstly we need to remove the throttle body and the mass air flow meter. These are held in place by a type of metal band /clip. These are meant to be used once and replaced but it is possible to re-use them if you are careful. You could of course just buy new or replace with a standard 4” jubilee clip. You often find these types of bands on drive shaft bellows.

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First insert a medium flat screwdriver or something similar and move from side to side in order to spread the crimped area as shown, this will allow you to open and pop the clip apart to remove.

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You only need to remove the two clips either side of the throttle body. Gently ease this out and lay on top of the engine somewhere safe, leaving the wires attached. Good time to inspect it and clean if necessary.

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Ease the corrugated rubber connection piece off the mass air meter and lift it slightly to expose a jubilee clip on a breather pipe underneath. Slacken this and remove.

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Unclip the mass air flow meter from the air filter box and gently lay somewhere safe with the wires still attached.

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You will now be able to see the job from above but in order to get easier access I decided to drop the fan assembly out of the way. Unplug the two fan power connectors from the top and a tie-wrap holding the cable to the centre of the fan assembly. Cut these tie-wraps and pull out the strap part leaving the stud part intact, you can then use an ordinary tie-wrap threaded through the hole in the original stud.

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From below unplug the two connectors from the fan low speed resistor, put a mark on one plug and socket so you don’t mix them up. I’m certain it would make no difference but better safe than sorry. Don’t miss another tie- wrap just above these connectors.

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While you are on your back, now remove the two 8mm screws from either side fixing the fan assembly to the radiator housing.

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Now get up let the dizziness go and remove the two bolts, one either side, holding the top of the assembly. It may drop so hold it!

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Gently lower the assembly until it rests its self about half way down. There is no need to remove completely and it’s a pig to get out anyway.

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You can now see we have much more access and you are going to need it!

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If you look under the front you will see the radiator assembly hanging down, this green thing is the cooling fans low speed resistor should you ever need to find it.

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Now you can see the belt tensioner, it’s the pulley in the centre with the rusty nut. This is our means of removing the tension from the belt and we need to get a 15mm ring key onto it, or a socket would do.

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Place the ring key on the tensioner pulley centre and lift the end, i.e. you are turning anticlockwise. This you will take the tension off the belt.

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Whilst lifting the spanner, with the other hand slide the belt off the alternator pulley and let the spanner go down and the tensioner will come to rest.

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Now you can safely remove the old belt. I had to slacken this pipe clamp to get the belt off more easily.

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My belt was in an appalling state. I just cannot believe that it has ever been changed and the car should be on its third by now.

Whilst the belt is off check the pulleys for any wear. Especially the tensioner pulley and the black idler pulley above it. Spin them and any signs of rumbling, binding or squealing, then now is the time to replace them.
Tensioner complete (175436) £70. Idler pulley (172537) £55. Belt (175446) £24 all from Euro spares.

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Fit the new belt referring to the picture above or the sketch you of course made prior to removal. I must say it’s like doing battle with a cobra; a snake charmer would come in very handy about now.
Fit over all pulleys leaving the top alternator pulley to last. Fit this whilst lifting the tensioner with the spanner as before. No further adjustment is necessary as the Auto Tensioner does that job for you, so no need to worry about over tightening or under tightening which are both equally bad.

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Check that the belt is fitting snugly on all pulleys from above and below.

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Refit the mass air flow meter and clip in place. It’s much easier to do this without the throttle attached.
Now the rubber connection piece not forgetting the breather pipe underneath.

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Ease the throttle body in place, a smear of lube if needed will help, and align as in picture. Refit clips by hooking in place and re-crimping the clip with a pair if snipers as shown. No snipers? Then use your side cutters.

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Now it’s just a matter of refitting those engine bay covers and the under shield. Dropping the car and giving it a test run after checking you haven’t left any tools under the bonnet.
Congratulate yourself on a job well done and saving yourself about £400-£500 labour at a dealers. It’s probably this cost and the awkwardness of the job that means it is often neglected until it snaps, and the first you know is an ignition light on and heavy steering as you lose the pump.

This guide is obviously for the 4200 but all aux drive belts work on the same principal. I believe that also applies to the 3200 and the only main differences are, the tensioner is a slightly different design and is moved clockwise with a 3/8” socket bar and requires locking in place with a pin to release the tension. And the belt it’s self is twice as long. The picture below is of the belt layout on the 3200, the tensioner is in the centre to the right of the oil filter and I see no reason why it couldn’t be tackled in the same manner as we have done. I’m sure someone with a 3200 might do it one day and record the procedure for us.

Now I’m all set for the spring and a return to the permanent grin whilst driving. Until heaven forbid, something goes wrong or I feel like ripping something apart just for the fun of it, bye for now.

Keith.

The pic below is of the 3200 engine and shows the difference
 

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lozcb

Member
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12,304
Yet another brilliant how to Keith ,this mans a blinder congrats mate and hats off to you

You sure you never used to work for Haynes manuals


regards loz
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,593
Keith, amazed us all again. Just one note, the last image of the drivebelt route, that is from the 3200. I assume they are different.
 

JAGPURR

New Member
Messages
91
Hi Conaero,
Yes this is the 3200 I showed this so it could be compared I have altered the last paragraph slightly to make this more clear.
Keith
 

JAGPURR

New Member
Messages
91
coup.jpg

I couldn't find a line drawing of the 4200 layout but found this pic of a professional doing the job with a little more access than me and much nicer overalls.
Keith
 

MAF260

Member
Messages
7,662
What a superb write-up! As usual, the forum came to the rescue. I've just had to refit my aux belt in a car park as it decided to free itself for some reason. The standard Maserati toolkit carries all of the tools required for this job with the exception of a 15mm spanner. Fortunately a tool shop was within 100m of where my car 'failed to proceed' so I was able to buy what I needed and fix it there and then. For reference, this can be done from the top of the engine bay if the MAF and throttle body are removed. This was an occasion when I was thankful I have small hands and slim wrists! Now the car is back home I need to investigate the cause of the belt coming off - prime suspect is the power steering pump.

I used this pic on my iphone as guidance for the aux belt routing. Didn't realise until now it's the Alfa 8C engine. Makes me wonder if its the same block as the 4.2 with a different crank & pistons internally. Hmmmm....

4200 engine.jpg
 

safrane

Member
Messages
16,749
On my third aux belt since June...replaced as part of the last service as it was squeaky, then cut off last month due to A/C issues and replaced...and I have a spare sitting in a garage in Colmar.
 

Tufan

Member
Messages
233
Hello. Just turned 60k kms and my belt is gone in a small. The only belt I can find for quick repair is Conti's 1538 instead of 1534. The pulley self adjusts as far as I know so do you think I'm good to go with 1538 or take another day to wait for the right size?
 

Mr K

Member
Messages
321
On the 4.2 dry sump QPV you can change the belt without taking the intake stuff off. You just work from underneath - it's very easy.
1) raise & support car
2) remove undertray
3) apply a spanner to the tensioner
4) ease belt off
5) new belt on
etc

Looking at the 7th photo in the original post, it looks the same as my car. The shop manual says to take all that other stuff off, but it's completely unecessary. You probably don't even have to remove the plastic top engine bay cover to fed the belt around everything before finishing the job underneath.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,549
Hello. Just turned 60k kms and my belt is gone in a small. The only belt I can find for quick repair is Conti's 1538 instead of 1534. The pulley self adjusts as far as I know so do you think I'm good to go with 1538 or take another day to wait for the right size?

I'd wait...

C
 

Wack61

Member
Messages
8,764
I'd wait as well
My mechanic changed my belt without removing anything, he looped it round the pulleys he could see then used a rod to push it onto the ones he couldn't get at with his hands

Took him 10 minutes , mine is the first maserati he's ever worked on
 

Wack61

Member
Messages
8,764
I've just had a look at my old belt , its a 1538 and the replacement is a 1538 continental , I also found that number on here as being the correct belt last week
 

whereskeith

Member
Messages
821
I had mine replaced with a eurospares one and it sheared.... Then had an official OEM one fitted and it's been fine.
 

Tufan

Member
Messages
233
Thanks all, I will have it changed tomorrow and my only option for the moment is still 1538 Conti. Does driving style has impact on the life of belt?

@ Darren: how long have you been with the Conti 1538? Any issues? Thanks.
 

Wack61

Member
Messages
8,764
The conti only went on today, previous was a dayco but the same part number , my pulley was worn out so chewed a belt up, new pulley and belt fitted today , £75 in parts, the noise it was making sounded a lot more expensive than £75 :D
 

Tufan

Member
Messages
233
The conti only went on today, previous was a dayco but the same part number , my pulley was worn out so chewed a belt up, new pulley and belt fitted today , £75 in parts, the noise it was making sounded a lot more expensive than £75 :D

Fingers crossed for tomorrow in this case. I hope my pulley is in good condition.

Is there an alternative Fiat part number?
 

Tufan

Member
Messages
233
All worked fine today, back on the road. Lifting is important to check if the belt caused any damaged which was the case for me. My A/C compressor was rebuilt last year which seems to have caused the issue as balance at idle is not so good. Becomes ok with throttle but maybe just the imbalance is not visible.

image.jpg
 

PaulCambio

Member
Messages
480
My aux belt snapped yesterday. Bit bad, as it was apparently replaced when a new alternator was fitted in Feb this year. Anyone know where I can buy one 'off the shelf' in West Sussex? Need it replaced urgently. Thanks.