Exhaust Valves Stuck Closed (Fixed)

namaste

Member
Messages
212
I've got an '09 4.7 GTS (auto, twin pipe) and I suspected the exhaust valves were not working because I noticed no difference in exhaust noise in sport mode above 3000 rpm. Long story short, I had both tailpipes off, lubed, heated, hit, and now they're nice and freely moving back and forth. Gave it a drive down the street and got a lovely deep note over 3000 rpm, with a gurgling when coming off the accelerator that unfortunately stops when you drop below 3000rpm.

Short of buying an MC shift, is there anyway to get that noise all the time (not just over 3000 rpm) but in sport mode only (i.e not jamming screws in the ends of the vac pipes)?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
FD valve control kit
Or disconnect the vacuum pipe and plug with a golf tee
C

<edit: should have read the whole question> :)
 

namaste

Member
Messages
212
Thanks for the replies. I was really wondering if anyone has found a quick DIY solution like a wire from the sport button switching to the valve that controls the vacuum but it's obviously more complex than that.

What sort of impact does an X pipe have on noise level out of sport mode (exhaust valves closed)? If it makes it louder I guess I'll pass. Want to keep a quiet mode for long journeys.
 

granturismo

Junior Member
Messages
192
I did some investigation online to figure out how the valve actually operates and it seems its not a simple +12v or 0v - it operates on voltage difference etc - found a blog somewhere online explaining it nicely at which point I gave up and decided if I was going to do it I would get one of the aforementioned kits
 

Felonious Crud

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
21,013
What sort of impact does an X pipe have on noise level out of sport mode (exhaust valves closed)? If it makes it louder I guess I'll pass. Want to keep a quiet mode for long journeys.

Not much, as far as I can tell. Inside the cabin is still really quiet with the valves closed. Outside is louder, of course, but it's not window-shattering loud.
 

namaste

Member
Messages
212
One of the ferrari guys figuered it out for a 360/f430, so should be similar to our bella's. And if you are a bit capable, it looks like a nice DIY job. if only my exhausts had controlable valves!

https://aldousvoice.com/2014/05/14/ferrari-360-f430-exhaust-valve-
control-unit/

Thanks for the link. So 7v is valves closed, 12v is valves open. If thats true for the Maserati version, that wouldn't be hard to operate via a switch if I wasn't concerned about the ECU errors.

Not much, as far as I can tell. Inside the cabin is still really quiet with the valves closed. Outside is louder, of course, but it's not window-shattering loud.

So with the x-pipe on you get the pops and crackles as you lift off the pedal at all times, regardless of revs or drive mode? And I assume it makes it that extra bit louder in sport mode when the exhaust valves open up?
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
A way to get past the ECU errors would be to put another solenoid in line. If you close that one off so there's no vacuum to the valves, they will open. Simple to do (just 12v switch) and no chance of ECU errors.

C
 

namaste

Member
Messages
212
A way to get past the ECU errors would be to put another solenoid in line. If you close that one off so there's no vacuum to the valves, they will open. Simple to do (just 12v switch) and no chance of ECU errors.

C

Thats true. If the factory solenoid has 2 outputs, I guess I'd need two solenoids, one for each line. But thats so easy to set up as long as I can get a feed from somewhere. A project for when it gets warmer. Think I'll make up an x-pipe too to test that out.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Thats true. If the factory solenoid has 2 outputs, I guess I'd need two solenoids, one for each line. But thats so easy to set up as long as I can get a feed from somewhere. A project for when it gets warmer. Think I'll make up an x-pipe too to test that out.

Just do it at the front near the vacuum bottle. There's only one pipe there. It's where the FD valve sits. Took me about 2 minutes to get mine fitted. Seriously.

Pipe 45 here is where you want to be

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/parts/m...9-4-7-auto/engine/additional-air-system-45900

C
 

namaste

Member
Messages
212
Just do it at the front near the vacuum bottle. There's only one pipe there. It's where the FD valve sits. Took me about 2 minutes to get mine fitted. Seriously.

Pipe 45 here is where you want to be

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/parts/m...9-4-7-auto/engine/additional-air-system-45900

C


Nice, thanks for that. I'm going to grab a generic 12v solenoid and switch off ebay and give it a go when I take all the engine bay covers off for a good clean. Should cost all of about 20 quid.
 

CatmanV2

Member
Messages
48,547
Nice, thanks for that. I'm going to grab a generic 12v solenoid and switch off ebay and give it a go when I take all the engine bay covers off for a good clean. Should cost all of about 20 quid.

Correct :) I went for the FD kit as by the time I'd fiddled about getting remote control kits, solenoids and pipes, it became good value. I had a solenoid that I bought which you could have had, but binned it :(

C
 

MGT

Member
Messages
262
Bumping an old thread - what is the best way to free up those seized exhaust valves? and can they be had without taking the tailpipes off? Car was on a ramp today at Christian Lewis and one was seized (closed). Short of replacing them I just want to get them open then disconnect the vacuum line to get them to stay open.
 

Zep

Moderator
Messages
9,110
I am sure Eddie will see you right with this. If you remove the tray under the rear bumper you should be able to get to the actuator and valve and hit it with some penetrating oil to see if it becomes free. Then lube it with some dry lubricant like graphite as a wet lube will gather dirt. If not it will most likely have to come off so you can apply some leverage. You'll need to get your car in the air to do this and beware the fixings on the rear tray, they can rust up and snap when removing.
 

namaste

Member
Messages
212
Bumping an old thread - what is the best way to free up those seized exhaust valves? and can they be had without taking the tailpipes off? Car was on a ramp today at Christian Lewis and one was seized (closed). Short of replacing them I just want to get them open then disconnect the vacuum line to get them to stay open.

Personally I used an oxy acetylene torch and heated the pivots up while spraying with silicone spray. Then used a ring spanner on the small cylindrical bit of metal the actuator arm connects to, to pull the valve arm back and forth. I needed to tap it gently with a hammer and drift to begin with though. It took a few heat cycles to fully loosen up. I of course had the tail pipes off when doing this. A local garage should be able to do the whole thing for you I should think.

You could try getting under the car, disconnect the actuator arm (careful, there's a little washer you don't want to lose), and use some spray and try wiggling the valve back and forth with a small ring spanner but my guess would be it needs a bit of heat.
 

bigbob

Member
Messages
8,952
I am sure Eddie will see you right with this. If you remove the tray under the rear bumper you should be able to get to the actuator and valve and hit it with some penetrating oil to see if it becomes free. Then lube it with some dry lubricant like graphite as a wet lube will gather dirt. If not it will most likely have to come off so you can apply some leverage. You'll need to get your car in the air to do this and beware the fixings on the rear tray, they can rust up and snap when removing.

Is there a top part of the actuator that needs lubrication as you can do all the rest by just lying beside the car and looking under.

After spraying I have opened a valve that is jammed closed by putting a shoelace round the mechanism and pulling it down. I find a socket set screwdriver - without the socket - is great for pushing the valve up and down when it is working.